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How many insulators + o-rings on primary injectors ?

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Old 09-21-15, 11:54 PM
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How many insulators + o-rings on primary injectors ?

Basically I'm moving the primary injector intermediate housing from my old blown
engine to a new short block. I transfered both fuel mixer plates that go in below each injector from the blown motor.

I asked Malloy Mazda to send me the necessary rubber insulators + o-rings that need replacement.
Malloy said air bleed sockets #13-2601 are actually the fuel mixer plates and weren't able to specify what rubber parts needed
replacement.

I got a pair of insulators that fit along the top of the intermediate housing but nothing near the base of either injector.

I don't know what actually holds the fuel mixer plates in place beyond notches in the injector housing bores, if anything ??

Do 13-ZG3 + 13-ZG4 o-rings seal the top portion of each injector next to electrical connectors ? .. or the bottom ?

I've attached pics of both insulators I received, and the schematic .. which in my opinion is pretty poor, and my reason for me having so many questions about this. The last thing I need is an engine fire on a fresh rebuild.

I couldn't figure out a way of twisting out secondary injectors without stressing plastic connectors either ..

Is there an easy way of testing installed primary + secondary injectors + housing + rail for leaks out of the car
... without pulling the fuel pump ? Just buy a cheap used fuel pump I'm guessing ?

Thanks
Attached Thumbnails How many insulators + o-rings on primary injectors ?-img_8079.jpg   How many insulators + o-rings on primary injectors ?-upper-lower-injector-o-rings-insulators-.jpg  

Last edited by Blk 93; 09-22-15 at 12:03 AM.
Old 09-22-15, 11:33 AM
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Primary injectors
4 orings on the injectors themselves inside the rail
2 rubber insulators for sealing to engine outside (I can see them installed correctly in your 1st photo)

Engine Block for Primaries
2 mixing plates or sockets, these are the bottom seals held in place by the notch (no orings)

Secondary Injectors
4 orings on the injectors themselves inside the rail

Lower Intake Manifold for Secodaries
2 mixing plates or sockets
1 oring on each mixing plate (2 total)
1 insulators above each mixing plate (2 total)

I'm 100% sure malloy mazda sells the fuel recall kit for rebuilding the stock fuel system.
Good luck with homemade pressure testing if you aren't following the manual.

Last edited by Nakd n Fearless; 09-22-15 at 11:36 AM.
Old 09-22-15, 05:13 PM
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Those o-rings that are pictured on your primary rail are the only ones that go on there and are in the correct place
Old 09-22-15, 05:21 PM
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There appeared to be a MM or 2 of extra depth in the intermediate housing compared to the injector base,
but I guess I'm just overly concerned.

Thanks,
Old 09-22-15, 05:24 PM
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There is a little spacer that goes under the primary rail that is a few mm thick. Do you have it?
Old 09-22-15, 06:37 PM
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maybe the parts catalog helps?
Attached Thumbnails How many insulators + o-rings on primary injectors ?-ef302l1.png  
Old 09-25-15, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 96fd3s
There is a little spacer that goes under the primary rail that is a few mm thick. Do you have it?
If you mean spacer #13-158 in the parts list, yes I have that.


It's actually the parts page along with insulator differences in secondaries
that are a bit confusing, to me anyway.
I can't believe it's been 22 years .. and these are the best pictures of injectors Mazda could provide

I'm guessing 13-ZG3 + ZG4 o-rings sit inside the upper portions of both injector housings, which I didn't want to pull and replace just to check.

I'll just find a way to test for leaks before I reinstall the engine.

Thanks everyone.
Old 09-28-15, 01:45 PM
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http://www.gtfours.co.uk/pics/injectors/165v205/01.jpg

that pic shows the injectors with the ZG3 and ZG4 orings on them, the 13-257 goes on top of the 13-2601, and then the tip of the fuel rail sits in the 13-257.

there is a way to test for leaks, assemble the fuel system, but unbolt the rails from the engine. turn the key on, engine off, and then in the diagnositc box you can jump the f/p (fuel pump) terminal, and the fuel pump will run. let it run a few minutes, there shouldn't be any leaks/fuel smell from anywhere.

you probably want to do this first, as its hard to get to the rails without taking everything else off
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