I've already read the thread on running on one rotor, so I don't want to do that . My problem is I'm getting 90 PSI on the back rotor in the compression test and only 60 in the front rotor. Is it possible to pour any "engine rebuild in a can" to get it along for awhile. I had a suggestion to try transmission fluid into the intake, I had someone at work said this worked on a carburated 12b but I don't like that espically with an o2 sensor. Is it possible to just pull the front off of the motor and replace the offending seals without pulling the motor?

 

try some mystery oil in the gas? that may help. not sure though

 

full rebuild is the only solution

 

ATF into the spark plug hole. 1 oz, crank it over by hand, then do another oz. This might help build a little pressure.

60psi isn't completely horrible. You might stay running for a while with that. When it gets to 30, stop running it.

 

Pour ATF into the intake? Ummm...no. You put it in the spark plug holes. And theres plenty info on that here, so do a search. That would be your only option, if the low compression is due to massive carbon buildup. If that doesn't do it, you will have to pull the engine and completely disassemble it.

-Joe

 

If you want the cheapest solution buy an allready running motor that's used form sombody on the forum until you can afford a fulll rebuild.
Matt
Santaigo is right, simply and well put.

 

use a 75 shot of NOS.. Just kidding... Your best bet is to buy a rebuild video and rebuild it yourself to save $$.

 

Isn't ATF only for getting rid of carbon lock or a severely flooded eninge? I don't think it can just magically build you compression out of nowhere

 

NO.
Running a hurt motor just increases the chances you're ruining the internals to the point where they are unusable.
I don't recommend ANYONE trying to keep a confirmed hurt motor running if they want the best chance to recover the internal parts for a rebuild.
You're just shooting yourself in the foot the longer you keep driving the car.


-Ted

 

I have no history on this car other than the tags are from 2001 and it didn't run, now it just kinda runs. It may already have a lot of damage done, or it may have been shut down at the first signs of trouble. It's my nephews car and he really needs one now to get him to work. If the ATF works mabey it can be kept alive until he can afford a good motor. THanks for the help. It never occured to me to do a search on ATF in the engine. Thanks again.

 

ok im a noob so what is ATF. if only one of the roters is resked can you shut it down and only run one i no it will be slow but i could save the car. dont take my advise cus i dont no that much on rotarys.

 

ATF is automatic transmission fluid.

 

kool thanks

 

I have done this procedure before on my '87 RX. Just get some ATF and pour it in the spark plug holes and run it around 4,000 rpm until all the smoke goes away. There will be a lot of smoke, but it should burn off within 5-10 mins.
One of the Mazda techs I know said it helps out the apex seals somehow, and it helps to prolong the life of the engine, even though yours sounds like it is already slowly dying.
When I did this to my '87, I had a RB header, no cats, and cat-back exhaust. My friend said he saw a couple of small flames come out the tips at one point!

 

I just tried it, It must have killed most insects here in Bartlesville. It seemed to be doing the job until I threw the alternator belt. I guse my rich nephew will just have to buy some more parts for his car and I'll try it again this weekend

 

NO NO NO! http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/atftrick.htm

I have been meaning to post some pictures of oil o-rings completely destroyed by ATF, but have not got around to it yet.

 

The motor didn't want to run anyways. so it looked like a rebuild. Did you leave the ATF sit overnight or did you run it out immeditaly. It was just about done smoking when I lost the alternator. Hopefully I ended up actually doing some good so it can get my nephews car out of my driveway. That's of course after I get to drive it