2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

blew the engine!!!! 89 vert

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Old May 12, 2011 | 03:57 PM
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Angry blew the engine!!!! 89 vert

now i need a new engine.. any recommendations on where to get a nice t2 s5 motor n tranny ?... good price and good equipment is best thank u..
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Old May 12, 2011 | 06:32 PM
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rebuild yours, if your patient you can find good deals on better parts. if your buying JDM short blocks do not purchase tiger....

I recently bought lapped s5 T2 irons, a weight matched pair of rotors, apex seals set and a soft seal kit for $600

or

you can count on your JDM block lasting anywhere from 0m to 25k miles
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Old May 13, 2011 | 11:40 AM
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damn... i was gon use this opportunity to finally go turbo instead of n/a.. unless there is a way to get about 250-300 hp from n/a motor.....
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Old May 13, 2011 | 05:23 PM
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alot of work going turbo from n/a... hope you got a bit of cash and some time on your hands... ill be headed down that road myself, but im gonna turbo my s4 n/a and only run 3-4 psi of boost to help low end power.
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Old May 13, 2011 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Vdub2002
alot of work going turbo from n/a... hope you got a bit of cash and some time on your hands... ill be headed down that road myself, but im gonna turbo my s4 n/a and only run 3-4 psi of boost to help low end power.
expect to have about 5 psi as your minimum target, even with a decently ported wastegate. throwing a turbo onto a motor, you can't pick and choose how low you want the boost to be very easily with an internal wastegate.
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Old May 13, 2011 | 05:32 PM
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i was told 5 or 6 psi is safe for a N/A motor, but i wont be doing this till i get a t2 block to rebuild and throw in when i blow the N/A motor.

Karack any experience with sunroofs lol
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Old May 13, 2011 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Vdub2002
i was told 5 or 6 psi is safe for a N/A motor, but i wont be doing this till i get a t2 block to rebuild and throw in when i blow the N/A motor.

Karack any experience with sunroofs lol
yep, use your hand to help it. there is no easy fix and even a complete rebuild of the sunroof still only fixes half of the issue, the other half is the crappy wiring which does not push enough amps to turn the motor.
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Old May 13, 2011 | 06:18 PM
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I think a better and more then likely an even cheaper choice would be to just put your n/a's up for sale, take that money and put up a few more bucks for a t2 and build off that, a lot more simple and realistically makes more sense. Just add up the price in parts and check out what some t2's are going for and it should be an obvious choice.
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Old May 13, 2011 | 06:38 PM
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Sometimes JDM ones pop up on ebay with the engine and transmission together and every now and then the ecu as well for around $1200. Don't know how reputable these companies are though. If you could find one with the ecu that'll save you having to find one of those as well 'cause you'll need the turbo one. If you haven't already I'd do some searching on TII conversions 'cause there are quite a few little details to work out in the swap.
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Old May 13, 2011 | 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by fromtib27
I think a better and more then likely an even cheaper choice would be to just put your n/a's up for sale, take that money and put up a few more bucks for a t2 and build off that, a lot more simple and realistically makes more sense. Just add up the price in parts and check out what some t2's are going for and it should be an obvious choice.
+1

A lot simpler and you get everything else a TII comes with. Depending on your NA, suspension, brakes, driveshafts and a few other bits will be different. A TII swap isn't just an engine, tranny and ECU, and by the time you have all the supporting parts and work done (i.e. sensors, modifying harnesses), it can add up fast.
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Old May 13, 2011 | 07:38 PM
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I've ran 14psi on a hybrid on a stock 6 port turbo set up. 12psi is safe any higher is not. I also ran 10psi on an n/a ecu for awhile, until rtek. But I'm far done with that set up.
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Old May 13, 2011 | 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by pfsantos
+1

A lot simpler and you get everything else a TII comes with. Depending on your NA, suspension, brakes, driveshafts and a few other bits will be different. A TII swap isn't just an engine, tranny and ECU, and by the time you have all the supporting parts and work done (i.e. sensors, modifying harnesses), it can add up fast.
I would agree but he has a convertible so it may be worth it. Personally I'm not a big convertible fan so I'd go the route you suggest. He may like the the idea of a turbo convertible though.
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Old May 13, 2011 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 2slow4stock
I've ran 14psi on a hybrid on a stock 6 port turbo set up. 12psi is safe any higher is not. I also ran 10psi on an n/a ecu for awhile, until rtek. But I'm far done with that set up.
on a stock fuel system/ecu? sure you did..

what was that one guys name from the kills section? i forget.

only the vert ECU has any maps for boost integrated. so in all honesty you should specify your **** or shut up, otherwise someone will take your words as example and think it works until they have another brick for a 7 out there.

anything above 10 psi on the stock turbo fuel system, well your **** is on borrowed time.

Last edited by RotaryEvolution; May 13, 2011 at 08:51 PM.
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Old May 13, 2011 | 10:23 PM
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i thought a swap from n/a to turbo was just ; engine,tranny,ecu,wire harness,rear diff and half shafts... is there more to it than that??
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Old May 13, 2011 | 10:33 PM
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https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ighlight=turbo

I have not read it but its in the archives so...

There is a lot of information on the forum, just need to search a little.
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Old May 15, 2011 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Karack
yep, use your hand to help it. there is no easy fix and even a complete rebuild of the sunroof still only fixes half of the issue, the other half is the crappy wiring which does not push enough amps to turn the motor.
Actually I've found a little electrical lubricant works fine. Mine used to get stuck like that, but its worked fine since I put some lubricant in there.
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Old May 16, 2011 | 06:20 PM
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looks like i wud need a few parts.. besides the motor,tranny,ecu, and half shafts i wud also need the drive shaft and diff...or is there a way to get at least 250hp from an n/a without spending more than turbo swap?
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Old May 16, 2011 | 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by piston_killer
looks like i wud need a few parts.. besides the motor,tranny,ecu, and half shafts i wud also need the drive shaft and diff...or is there a way to get at least 250hp from an n/a without spending more than turbo swap?
short answer: no.

n/a power requires a standalone($1500) and a PP/bridgeport($2000, including rebuild). not including custom exhaust/intake and tuning if you don't tune it yourself, tack on another $1k for those, then there is fuel system upgrades... for the $3500 into the motor and engine management you can toss a turbo onto a non turbo engine and do the same and get more from the stock block.

with all that into a non turbo engine you also reduce fuel economy by about 30% and reduce the streetability/torque for all top end power.

Last edited by RotaryEvolution; May 16, 2011 at 06:54 PM.
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Old May 16, 2011 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by piston_killer
looks like i wud need a few parts.. besides the motor,tranny,ecu, and half shafts i wud also need the drive shaft and diff...or is there a way to get at least 250hp from an n/a without spending more than turbo swap?
Mazdatrix sells a drivshaft that connects a turbo trans to a n/t rear end. Then you wouldn't need the the half-shafts or turbo diff & housing etc. You'd still be stuck with your open diff rather than the LSD from the turbo rear end.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/g9.htm
I think you need the turbo pressure/map sensor and AFM as well.

It is possible to get 250hp from a n/t but I think Karack pretty much covered it.
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