black magic e fan 2800 cfm
#1
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black magic e fan 2800 cfm
i installed my black magic e fan with shroud today and this sucker realy moves some air if you want to go e fan i would realy reccomend this fan
i have never seen my cooling system behave so well. it has a built in thurmostat and temp sensor and is adjustable from 180 to 240 deg
i payed 280 after tax so its a little spendy but i think it will be worth every penny
model 150
flex a light black magic
fits the koyo rad pretty well although it doesnt cover the whole rad surface
i have never seen my cooling system behave so well. it has a built in thurmostat and temp sensor and is adjustable from 180 to 240 deg
i payed 280 after tax so its a little spendy but i think it will be worth every penny
model 150
flex a light black magic
fits the koyo rad pretty well although it doesnt cover the whole rad surface
#3
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yea i put my stock main pully back on to help with the extra juce i will need
and for my alt its got a life time warranty, yea baby and im already on my second one.
if only napa new
and for my alt its got a life time warranty, yea baby and im already on my second one.
if only napa new
#7
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I've been using this fan for a few months, including a cross country trip.
I picked mine up from SpeedUnlimited in MD for about $215.
In my experience, with my 1990 S5 GTU, the fan has worked great.
It keeps the temp. needle below 50%, even when idling in hot weather. I haven't noticed any significant draw from the electrical system. I have a stock S5 alternator and an Optima red top battery.
I also have the fan wired up to blow when the ignition is off, thermostat controlled. It'll usually kick on and off a few times after the car is parked as the engine cools.
I picked mine up from SpeedUnlimited in MD for about $215.
In my experience, with my 1990 S5 GTU, the fan has worked great.
It keeps the temp. needle below 50%, even when idling in hot weather. I haven't noticed any significant draw from the electrical system. I have a stock S5 alternator and an Optima red top battery.
I also have the fan wired up to blow when the ignition is off, thermostat controlled. It'll usually kick on and off a few times after the car is parked as the engine cools.
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#8
NorCal 7's Co-founder
I have been using the model 150 for a little while as well. GREAT fan!!!!!!! I have the thermostat set to the lowest level as well as a manual switch on the center console of my TII. It has worked better than any other e-fan I've ever seen used on a second gen. I paid $180 out the door at Kragen Auto parts. Got to love that military discount. It does draw some serious current though. An FD alt. upgrade for the FC is the way to go!!
Zach
Zach
#9
Engine, Not Motor
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Originally Posted by SirCygnus
use capacitors. a bunch of them.
I hope you were joking, and that the original poster knows enough to realize that this is a very poor suggestion.
If the e-fan is drawing too much, upgrade the alternator or switch to a more efficient fan.
#10
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Originally Posted by daten
In my experience, with my 1990 S5 GTU, the fan has worked great.
It keeps the temp. needle below 50%, even when idling in hot weather. I haven't noticed any significant draw from the electrical system. I have a stock S5 alternator and an Optima red top battery.
It keeps the temp. needle below 50%, even when idling in hot weather. I haven't noticed any significant draw from the electrical system. I have a stock S5 alternator and an Optima red top battery.
#12
Lives on the Forum
One thing I don't like about that fan - that thermostat circuit SUX!
The solder joints and connections tend to pull out inside the box.
I prefer to run the fan as a stand-alone fan and run an external thermostat system - i.e. Spal FAN-PWM is fast becoming my favorite.
-Ted
The solder joints and connections tend to pull out inside the box.
I prefer to run the fan as a stand-alone fan and run an external thermostat system - i.e. Spal FAN-PWM is fast becoming my favorite.
-Ted
#16
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Originally Posted by RETed
One thing I don't like about that fan - that thermostat circuit SUX!
The solder joints and connections tend to pull out inside the box.
I prefer to run the fan as a stand-alone fan and run an external thermostat system - i.e. Spal FAN-PWM is fast becoming my favorite.
-Ted
The solder joints and connections tend to pull out inside the box.
I prefer to run the fan as a stand-alone fan and run an external thermostat system - i.e. Spal FAN-PWM is fast becoming my favorite.
-Ted
#17
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Originally Posted by Turbo23
and the best is.... http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0117&langId=-1
-More CFM
-Shroud covers more surface area, so it should cover the FC radiator much better than the 150 black magic.
Cons:
-WHOLE lot more amp draw!
#18
whats going on?
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
That's ridiculous. You would need thousands of kiloFarads worth of capacitors to power an electric fan for several minutes stopped at a light, and the alternator would still have to charge them all up again.
I hope you were joking, and that the original poster knows enough to realize that this is a very poor suggestion.
If the e-fan is drawing too much, upgrade the alternator or switch to a more efficient fan.
I hope you were joking, and that the original poster knows enough to realize that this is a very poor suggestion.
If the e-fan is drawing too much, upgrade the alternator or switch to a more efficient fan.
actually, i was referring to actually kickstart the fan into runing. like on most household airconditioning units ther are capacitors so it doesnt blow a breaker. my dad ( who is a master electricien) told me that it should work really well.
im not talking about to fully power it. just for times when the fan kicks on and needs the extra juice.
#19
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http://www.vintageair.com/download/pdf_singles/70.pdf
3700+cfm Yummy!
3700+cfm Yummy!
#20
Engine, Not Motor
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Originally Posted by SirCygnus
actually, i was referring to actually kickstart the fan into runing. like on most household airconditioning units ther are capacitors so it doesnt blow a breaker. my dad ( who is a master electricien) told me that it should work really well.
im not talking about to fully power it. just for times when the fan kicks on and needs the extra juice.
im not talking about to fully power it. just for times when the fan kicks on and needs the extra juice.
Thus, the capacitor is not used as a "starting battery", but to actually shift the phase of the AC waveform for more starting torque.
Nothing against your dad, but there's a huge difference between electricians and those who know electronics.
It of course is valid to put a large value capacitor in parallel with the e-fan's motor to aid in startup torque, but the real problem is not the fan starting (that current is supplied by the battery), but the continuous draw on the already weak alternator.
#21
I break Diff mounts
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I will agree with the BM thermoswitch failing.
My buddies Camaro had the BM Extreme fan and the circuit board connectors melted off and failed.
I was planning on running a Permacool finger chopper(2950cfm/no shroud) with the BM thermoswitch.
SO what switch woudl you guys recommend? Any mods which might increase their stability?
My buddies Camaro had the BM Extreme fan and the circuit board connectors melted off and failed.
I was planning on running a Permacool finger chopper(2950cfm/no shroud) with the BM thermoswitch.
SO what switch woudl you guys recommend? Any mods which might increase their stability?
#22
I'm a boost creep...
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If/when my stock fan dies and is replaced with a e-fan, I'm going to use this adjustable voltage switch kit to trigger the fan based on the ECU's coolant thermosensor voltage.
#23
I break Diff mounts
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Damn looks like I found my dream controller.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...1471&langId=-1
It would replace my autometer gauge and control the efan.
This placed with the permacool ($100range)fan would be a pretty economical choice for temp reading and stock fan replacement.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...1471&langId=-1
It would replace my autometer gauge and control the efan.
This placed with the permacool ($100range)fan would be a pretty economical choice for temp reading and stock fan replacement.
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