Best Non-Synthetic Oil (For FC)
#5
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Originally Posted by Jigsaw
I said non-sythetic.
If you look around a little bit, you will find MOST people use/suggest castrol GTX 10w-40 or 20w-50.
#6
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All the top selling brands are good.
You can argue about specs (search for "oil faq"), but when it comes down to it...they are all the same.
Pennzoil, Quaker State, Castrol, Valvoline...are all fine.
Castrol is very popular due to their very good advertisement campaign.
-Ted
You can argue about specs (search for "oil faq"), but when it comes down to it...they are all the same.
Pennzoil, Quaker State, Castrol, Valvoline...are all fine.
Castrol is very popular due to their very good advertisement campaign.
-Ted
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#11
Opinions are like........
Any API, SAE, ILSAC oil that meets 'SL' or 'SM', and the 'GF3' or 'GF4' specs is plenty good nowadays. Stick with what is on sale, what has rebates, and whatever is cheapest. Cheapest usually means the store branded oil.
Its more important to keep the oil fresh, like changing it ever 3k/3mo. And, top it off at every fuel fillup.
Its more important to keep the oil fresh, like changing it ever 3k/3mo. And, top it off at every fuel fillup.
#12
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I've been using castrol gtx since before I ever saw one of their ads. I always used it in my other cars, and thats what was used in my 7 when I bought it, so I kept using it. From waht I have read, it does burn particularly cleanly, so the "sludge" stuff in the ads isn't totally advertising rhetoric. Its even more important for rotaries since they always burn oil. The way I see it, I would rather spend an extra 5 bucks every 3k miles to have an oil that burns cleaner.
But as stated, if you're strapped for cash, or just cheap, then anything with the above mentioned certs will work fine.
But as stated, if you're strapped for cash, or just cheap, then anything with the above mentioned certs will work fine.
#13
Clean.
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Originally Posted by deadRX7Conv
Any API, SAE, ILSAC oil that meets 'SL' or 'SM', and the 'GF3' or 'GF4' specs is plenty good nowadays. Stick with what is on sale, what has rebates, and whatever is cheapest. Cheapest usually means the store branded oil.
Its more important to keep the oil fresh,
Its more important to keep the oil fresh,
Originally Posted by deadRX7Conv
And, top it off at every fuel fillup.
Last edited by ericgrau; 10-14-06 at 01:19 PM.
#15
Opinions are like........
I always check my oil hot after a fillup(usually 5 minutes to pump and pay) on all my vehicles, unless otherwise suggested differently in an owners manual.
I want to check my oil in the condition that it is in most of the time, warm-hot, in all my vehicles.
I also want my level to be checked with my filter full of oil, not after it has drained empty overnight into the pan creating an artificial higher level. Most filter ADBVs don't work as well as advertised.
Overfilling isn't much of an issue if level is 1/2 quart or less overfilled. Some engine benefit from being slightly overfilled, especially if the vehicle is tracked.
I've never seen boingers pop seals even when overfilled. They, like any engine with crankcase ventilation, might just suck up surplus oil. Aeration and windage is an issue caused by being grossly overfilled.
If you're grossly overfilled, by more then a pint, you shouldn't have a drivers license or a car.
Per my Rx7 owners manual:
Check the oil on a level surface(concrete slab at the gas station pump), with an engine at normal operating temp(the drive to the gas station), with engine off for 5 minutes(my typical fillup/pay time for the fuel). So simple.
So, IMO, checking the oil cold after sitting overnight is wrong!
I want to check my oil in the condition that it is in most of the time, warm-hot, in all my vehicles.
I also want my level to be checked with my filter full of oil, not after it has drained empty overnight into the pan creating an artificial higher level. Most filter ADBVs don't work as well as advertised.
Overfilling isn't much of an issue if level is 1/2 quart or less overfilled. Some engine benefit from being slightly overfilled, especially if the vehicle is tracked.
I've never seen boingers pop seals even when overfilled. They, like any engine with crankcase ventilation, might just suck up surplus oil. Aeration and windage is an issue caused by being grossly overfilled.
If you're grossly overfilled, by more then a pint, you shouldn't have a drivers license or a car.
Per my Rx7 owners manual:
Check the oil on a level surface(concrete slab at the gas station pump), with an engine at normal operating temp(the drive to the gas station), with engine off for 5 minutes(my typical fillup/pay time for the fuel). So simple.
So, IMO, checking the oil cold after sitting overnight is wrong!
#16
The Extremist
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well I have been using 100 percent canola oil for a while but I found it was fouling my plugs too quickly, been running on sunflower oil ever since with no problems.
#17
Clean.
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Originally Posted by deadRX7Conv
I always check my oil hot after a fillup
Per my Rx7 owners manual:
Check the oil on a level surface(concrete slab at the gas station pump), with an engine at normal operating temp(the drive to the gas station), with engine off for 5 minutes(my typical fillup/pay time for the fuel). So simple.
So, IMO, checking the oil cold after sitting overnight is wrong!
Per my Rx7 owners manual:
Check the oil on a level surface(concrete slab at the gas station pump), with an engine at normal operating temp(the drive to the gas station), with engine off for 5 minutes(my typical fillup/pay time for the fuel). So simple.
So, IMO, checking the oil cold after sitting overnight is wrong!
Originally Posted by mikaz
well I have been using 100 percent canola oil for a while but I found it was fouling my plugs too quickly, been running on sunflower oil ever since with no problems.
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