BDC's FC3S Build Thread (July 2010)
Thread Starter
BDC Motorsports
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,667
Likes: 6
From: Grand Prairie, TX
BDC's FC3S Build Thread (July 2010)
Howdy folks, I've never done a build thread here but I thought I'd might as well since I'm knee deep in yet another engine project for my FC. For those of ya'll that may not know, I own an '88 Turbo II I purchased way back in '97. I've done so many mods on the car since day 1 that I've honestly forgotten about many of them.
Anyhoo, this project is a rebuild and extension of the last project I did. I'm continuing the hot-air experiment (using copious amounts of alcohol injected upstream as a chemical intercooler) and changing none of the hardware. This go around, however, I did pin the engine in a more experimental way that only a few folks have done. A buddy of mine and I had the idea a few years ago but he'd actually experimented with it. I decided on this build, seeing as how I'd broken the last two motors by cracking the dowel lands on the irons, that I'd definitely find some way to pin it. I used this engine as my experimental platform for developing that pinning method which we call "Pocket Pinning". The pictures will explain its purpose better than I can.
On this setup, I run approximately 25psi of boost with no intercooler. The last time I datalogged last year I measured IAT's at 99-102* (sensor parked in the throttle body inlet adaptor) on a 71* day. Turbo discharge temps at that boost w/ that inlet temperature are 296*F. The alcohol removed 200*F of heat. I run 10 flat to mid 10's:1 with a 70/30 ratio of pump gas to alcohol from 15psi of boost and above. I don't know for certain as I've not dyno'd the setup yet but according to the injector and airflow numbers the car is putting between 480 and 525 horsepower to the rear wheels.
Here's the specs and mods done to the engine:
- A-run Series 4 4-port Turbo block
- 8.5:1 S4 turbo rotors (clearanced)
- Balanced assembly using factory 27lb flywheel
- BDC Spec-C Half-Bridgeport
- "Pocket Pinning" 16 pins on high pressure chamber side
- 3mm apex seals
- NGK R-6794 10's in the Leadings; NGK R-6725105 10.5's in the Trailings
- New side seals cut to 0.0025-0.003" clearance
- FD3S Oil Pressure Regulator
- Front oil overpressure regulator and front cover o-ring/nylon ring plugged and bypassed
- -6AN Loop line added to front iron's front stationary gear lateral oil galley
- Upper dowel oil run plugged
- Special "Barbeque black" painted crank pulley
- Aluminum "splitters" in both leading and trailing plug holes on rotor housings machined out
- Grooves cut in Leading/Trailing plug hole water jacketting
And the rest of the car mods:
- T70 Turbo w/ P-Trim 0.96 A/R undivided hotside
- Turbo inlet ducting w/ filter outside of the engine bay
- Old-school HKS cast iron log manifold
- Twin digital EGT's (one parked in each exhaust runner)
- Alkycontrol twin M10 nozzles slotted upstream
- "Hot-Air" no intercooler with turbo discharge run straight to throttle
- BDC ported/polished throttle body
- FD3S Alternator
- 720/1680 Injectors, Marren fuel pressure regulator
- Twin Walbro pumps (secondary on standby) and full parallel fuel system
- -8AN feed hardline
- Haltech E6K w/ external trigger reluctors, externally shielded,
- Ceramic coated LIM/UIM, vacuum nipples removed
- All vacuum lines -3/-4AN stainless steel braided including wastegate
- Old-school GReddy PROfec B
Anything else I've done I probably can't remember since I've done so much stuff to it over the past 13 years. Here's the link to the build thread on Facebook:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...6875030&ref=mf
And now on to a few photos in the next post...
Anyhoo, this project is a rebuild and extension of the last project I did. I'm continuing the hot-air experiment (using copious amounts of alcohol injected upstream as a chemical intercooler) and changing none of the hardware. This go around, however, I did pin the engine in a more experimental way that only a few folks have done. A buddy of mine and I had the idea a few years ago but he'd actually experimented with it. I decided on this build, seeing as how I'd broken the last two motors by cracking the dowel lands on the irons, that I'd definitely find some way to pin it. I used this engine as my experimental platform for developing that pinning method which we call "Pocket Pinning". The pictures will explain its purpose better than I can.
On this setup, I run approximately 25psi of boost with no intercooler. The last time I datalogged last year I measured IAT's at 99-102* (sensor parked in the throttle body inlet adaptor) on a 71* day. Turbo discharge temps at that boost w/ that inlet temperature are 296*F. The alcohol removed 200*F of heat. I run 10 flat to mid 10's:1 with a 70/30 ratio of pump gas to alcohol from 15psi of boost and above. I don't know for certain as I've not dyno'd the setup yet but according to the injector and airflow numbers the car is putting between 480 and 525 horsepower to the rear wheels.
Here's the specs and mods done to the engine:
- A-run Series 4 4-port Turbo block
- 8.5:1 S4 turbo rotors (clearanced)
- Balanced assembly using factory 27lb flywheel
- BDC Spec-C Half-Bridgeport
- "Pocket Pinning" 16 pins on high pressure chamber side
- 3mm apex seals
- NGK R-6794 10's in the Leadings; NGK R-6725105 10.5's in the Trailings
- New side seals cut to 0.0025-0.003" clearance
- FD3S Oil Pressure Regulator
- Front oil overpressure regulator and front cover o-ring/nylon ring plugged and bypassed
- -6AN Loop line added to front iron's front stationary gear lateral oil galley
- Upper dowel oil run plugged
- Special "Barbeque black" painted crank pulley
- Aluminum "splitters" in both leading and trailing plug holes on rotor housings machined out
- Grooves cut in Leading/Trailing plug hole water jacketting
And the rest of the car mods:
- T70 Turbo w/ P-Trim 0.96 A/R undivided hotside
- Turbo inlet ducting w/ filter outside of the engine bay
- Old-school HKS cast iron log manifold
- Twin digital EGT's (one parked in each exhaust runner)
- Alkycontrol twin M10 nozzles slotted upstream
- "Hot-Air" no intercooler with turbo discharge run straight to throttle
- BDC ported/polished throttle body
- FD3S Alternator
- 720/1680 Injectors, Marren fuel pressure regulator
- Twin Walbro pumps (secondary on standby) and full parallel fuel system
- -8AN feed hardline
- Haltech E6K w/ external trigger reluctors, externally shielded,
- Ceramic coated LIM/UIM, vacuum nipples removed
- All vacuum lines -3/-4AN stainless steel braided including wastegate
- Old-school GReddy PROfec B
Anything else I've done I probably can't remember since I've done so much stuff to it over the past 13 years. Here's the link to the build thread on Facebook:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...6875030&ref=mf
And now on to a few photos in the next post...
Thread Starter
BDC Motorsports
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,667
Likes: 6
From: Grand Prairie, TX
Updated Throttle Body and Dual EGT's
A couple pics of the gauge pod I made to house the wideband and the two digital EGT's plus re-polished and cleaned up throttle body...
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Thread Starter
BDC Motorsports
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,667
Likes: 6
From: Grand Prairie, TX
You and me both. I've got a bit of work in front of me I need to do first but I figure I'll get it installed weekend after next.
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Last edited by mar3; Jul 30, 2010 at 09:09 PM. Reason: Killd quote since reply was back-to-back to post in question...
Thread Starter
BDC Motorsports
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,667
Likes: 6
From: Grand Prairie, TX
They work pretty well! I only used one of the two EGT gauges prior to this build but I liked it. I don't think it was designed and built for automotive use per say but it worked well nonetheless. The numbers are bright, has a decently quick sampling rate (4/sec), and has options for a bright LED alarm, Celcius to Fahrenheit, and that sort of thing. They're also small and don't have the word "GReddy" stamped in big, bold letters on 'em.
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Last edited by mar3; Jul 30, 2010 at 09:09 PM. Reason: Killd quote since reply was back-to-back to post in question...
What specifically did you use to shield the reluctor triggers? I've got interference issues and want to do all I can to prevent it. Glad to see you are spending some time on this car again. Your AI testing thread convinced me to go that way a couple of years ago.
Thread Starter
BDC Motorsports
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,667
Likes: 6
From: Grand Prairie, TX
Wrap the trigger harness in aluminum tape like a burrito. Then strip some wire leaving several inches of stranded copper leftover. Wrap that around the aluminized wiring. Ground the other side to the engine block. Wrap it all up and loom it.
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Last edited by mar3; Jul 30, 2010 at 09:44 PM. Reason: Killd quote since reply was back-to-back to post in question...
The E6k/x have been known to have interference issues, but if you do things properly, you should be OK. Mine seems to be working.
Last edited by mar3; Jul 30, 2010 at 09:13 PM. Reason: Killd quote of deleted response...
Thread Starter
BDC Motorsports
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,667
Likes: 6
From: Grand Prairie, TX
That's the reason why I'm going back to using the MSD 8509 boxes instead of the internal reluctors onboard the ECU. Used to use them a long time ago with no issues. It only seemed that once I went to the IR chips everything started going wrong.
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