superstock2

iTrader: (9)

my relocated battery continually dies, even after a recharge, and i think it may even die as the car is running like the alt isn't charging it. i had the alternator tested and it passed, where should i go from here?

RB_eater

iTrader: (1)

Check for parasitic drains. Since you've just relocated it I'd double check every connection you made.

polito Racing

iTrader: (1)

what size wire did you use?

My88Se

iTrader: (10)

I'm assuming it didn't start doing this until you moved it? Or has it been like that for a while and just now started acting up?

blackedoutFC3S

iTrader: (7)

go get the battery tested at any local auto parts store

AreExSevenProject

iTrader: (1)

should like maybe you have a short...
make sure the line isnt open and touching metal anywhere...
then go get your alternator checked at a different place....
dont trust one teenager who just got his first job

superstock2

iTrader: (9)

brand new red top

alternator should be fine, it worked for 2 years before i removed it from the car... put a new pully on it but that shouldn't matter.

superstock2

iTrader: (9)

here is a diagram of my relocation... i also have an electric fan like the right up from rotary ressurections right up... i'm not using the stock ground points obviously in the engine bay, but do have the block grounded to the firewall, and then all the grounds on the harness to the top of the motor etc....

polito Racing

iTrader: (1)

you never answered my question. what size of wire did you use? have you checked that 150 amp fuse?

superstock2

iTrader: (9)

sorry, its 2awg and its not a fuse but a breaker... so it shouldn't be bad

polito Racing

iTrader: (1)

2 ga should be good. just going from the easiest how is the continuity on the cable? and looking at your diagram i dont see any cables going to the alternator. check the cable that goes from the main fuse to the alternator just to make sure that cable is also good. this diagram might help you to understand what im talking about.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...hmentid=199213

superstock2

iTrader: (9)

yeah i didn't run a new line to the alternator... did i need to? i just have the old one but i'm not sure where its attached even.

superstock2

iTrader: (9)

so should it look like this?

polito Racing

iTrader: (1)

according to the diagram above. yes. a good way to check is to try continuity from the thick wire that goes to terminal B on the alternator to the to the actual battery connector to see if there is continuity to there or simply replace the cable. if yes let me know Im actually researching on what else could it be. If no continuity then you found your problem. all you would need is to run a new cable from the main fuse to the alt and you will be set. if you look at the diagram i posted youll see the cable goes straight from the main fuse (on the DS shock tower) to terminal B on the alternator.

Let me know what happens.

superstock2

iTrader: (9)

couple things, what size wire should i use for the alt? and yeah i'll check that line... one of my friends hooked up the battery wrong, and fried the main fuse along with a connector below it, so i'm guessing that the line to the alt has somethin wrong with it.

polito Racing

iTrader: (1)

use the same 2 ga that should be fine.

AreExSevenProject

iTrader: (1)

i suck at anything electrical

superstock2

iTrader: (9)

thanks for letting us know lol...

AreExSevenProject

iTrader: (1)

your welcome

polito Racing

iTrader: (1)

did you check it yet?

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

1. Look at your volt gauge with the car running. 13.5-14.5 = charging, 12.5-13.5 = not charging, <12 = not charging, battery drained. Ideally it should charge at all rpms, but at the very least it should charge at 2500-4000rpm.

2. Get both battery and alternator tested at an auto parts store. Might as well retest the alt while you're there. Sometimes issues come and go. Replace any defective parts, save the warranty (alternators are a gamble).

3. Get a multimeter. Remove negative battery terminal (the thing that connects to the battery). Set multimeter to amps/current. Measure the current between negative battery post (on the battery) and the (disconnected) negative battery terminal. It should be a few mA or zero, no more. Otherwise pull fuses one by one until the current goes away. Check the name of the last fuse you pulled, this will tell you where the drain is. Start with the fuses under the dash, on the drivers side. Then do the ones in the engine bay.

superstock2

iTrader: (9)

got it fixed, some bad connections and some shady grounds... time to make this cars interior amazing!

superstock2

iTrader: (9)

okay so my battery died again, i hate trying to figure out the previous owners shitty wiring jobs! where should i start this time lol.

YaNi

iTrader: (2)

1. Shut all doors & turn off all accessories
2. Hook an ammeter in series with the negative battery cable
3. Read measurement

You have a short if the current draw is higher then about 50mA.
Start pulling fuses until you locate the faulty circuit.