JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

I'm looking to change my Optima Yellow Top for a different battery.

The engine is a rebuilt JDM 13B (S5). I have a Taurus efan, I used to have a decent stereo system in the car (3 amps, 6 speakers and a small sub) but that is being reworked and at present not being used and won't be used in the near future. Other electrical mods are the standard aftermarket gauges (boost, wideband, water and oil temp)

I have a modded S5 alt (130amps) but I'm switching to a Taurus alt as soon as I can source a pulley and either make or pay someone to make a mounting bracket.

The car is not a daily driver and the car can and has sat for weeks at a time, but once I have all the bugs worked out I'd like to be driving the car regularly.

Advice I've gotten is either to go with Deka or get a good no name battery.

Who has used what with success?

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

What's wrong with the current battery?

Also, always put a trickle charger on every couple of weeks for a few hours. Not driving a car regularly kills batteries (if the battery stays connected).

jjwalker

I remember your battery trouble thread from a few weeks ago, or maybe longer.

I got an AGM battery from orielly's ( I really ******* hate orielly's, but they had the right battery for the right price). They aren't advertised as AGM batteries, and it was the store brand, but it is definitely an AGM battery. I got the biggest one that would fit in the battery tray.

The key to finding an AGM battery at the part store brand price is look for vent caps. If it doesnt have vent caps, boom, you found a cheap AGM battery.

I am not a fan of optimas and their quality control sucks. I have worked in the car audio industry for 7 years now and have seen 1 vehicle burn down to the ground and another 2 more with exploded optima batteries. None of these vehicles had alternator problems or any mechanical damage that would cause that.

Evil Aviator

I like the Interstate Mega-Tron Plus battery for street cars.

For storage, I use quick-disconnect terminals or a racing kill switch so that the battery doesn't drain.

My convertible has something like this on the negative cable:


My truck has something like this:


My race car has something like this:

HRnico

iTrader: (7)

I use Oddissey PC925 in my GSL-SE for over two years now. Love it, it is in the storage bin, no vent AGM, and only weighs 26lbs. Just put the another one in my turbo build project. Been fine so far

Tui

iTrader: (2)

Where did you purchase your "race car" option disconnect?

Evil Aviator

Racer Parts Wholesale - Battery Disconnect Switches- Battery Cut-off Switches for Racecars

Also sold at:
http://www.summitracing.com
http://www.jegs.com
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/

It mounts on a washer-shaped tab welded to the a-pillar of the roll cage.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

I gave up on AGM batteries after killing 2 or 3 (and running them out of juice because my car is't the most reliable starter...) and switched back to a honda civic sized yellow top. It's working really well so far.

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Just thought I'd throw this out here too:
12 Volt, 35 Ah Sealed Lead Acid Battery

It's a bit light on the AH compared to stock and the terminals aren't regular automotive terminals. But for finding a cheap AGM battery at Harbor Freight, it might be worth giving it a try and documenting the results for all to see.

As for the battery kill switches, they can also be found at Harbor Freight here:
Battery Disconnect Switch

Heavy Duty Battery Cutoff Switch

But in all truth, I prefer something a bit more 'finished' and would suggest a circuit breaker such as this one:
Xscorpion CB150A 150 Amp Manual Reset Circuit Breaker

Kill switch plus circuit protection, all in one? Sounds like a win to me