Basic turbo question
10-25-11, 04:05 PM
#1
Basic turbo question
I found out why I'm running so rich... my ECU has the big REDOM sticker on it.
And of course the soot all over my pipe. Anyway, with it running so rich, I assume (with my narrowband, in all its glory) that its safe to boost a little higher (2-3 psi).
So the question is, does adding a boost controller to an otherwise stock TII allow me to turn up the boost from what I'm running without one? I'm currently at about 8 PSI max, with a full exhaust (2.75 in piping, no cat). Basic cone intake, perfect timing, perfect idle.
I thought I'd be going higher than stock boost with the whole exhaust, but it sits just higher than the stock level. I didnt know if this is being regulated by the wastegate or what...
I'm still learning the whole turbo side of the house.
And of course the soot all over my pipe. Anyway, with it running so rich, I assume (with my narrowband, in all its glory) that its safe to boost a little higher (2-3 psi).
So the question is, does adding a boost controller to an otherwise stock TII allow me to turn up the boost from what I'm running without one? I'm currently at about 8 PSI max, with a full exhaust (2.75 in piping, no cat). Basic cone intake, perfect timing, perfect idle.
I thought I'd be going higher than stock boost with the whole exhaust, but it sits just higher than the stock level. I didnt know if this is being regulated by the wastegate or what...
I'm still learning the whole turbo side of the house.
10-25-11, 06:24 PM
#4
lol... some quick wikipedia'ing answered that for me. So it will keep the wastegate actuator from opening the gate. Got it. Common sense tells me to install it with the valve fully open, then close from there slowly as I figure out how many turns equals 1 psi.
10-25-11, 07:30 PM
#5
I think after about 12 psi that the stock HT-182S starts to just pump heat, not flow more. Sure it'll have higher pressure, but that won't mean more air flow. Be cautious with installing manual boost controllers, the less expensive ones can be pretty finicky and random. Also, what year is your TII? You may need to look into a fuel cut defencer if you're planning on turning up the boost.
Side note... why are you selling your FC? Planning on getting a bimmer to fit in with the other officers?
Side note... why are you selling your FC? Planning on getting a bimmer to fit in with the other officers?
10-25-11, 09:10 PM
#6
I think after about 12 psi that the stock HT-182S starts to just pump heat, not flow more. Sure it'll have higher pressure, but that won't mean more air flow. Be cautious with installing manual boost controllers, the less expensive ones can be pretty finicky and random. Also, what year is your TII? You may need to look into a fuel cut defencer if you're planning on turning up the boost.
Side note... why are you selling your FC? Planning on getting a bimmer to fit in with the other officers?
Side note... why are you selling your FC? Planning on getting a bimmer to fit in with the other officers?
I'm selling my FC for more than 95% would pay for it... so I suppose I'm not really TRYING, but I'm hoping to have a baby on the way soon, I have an 83 GSL, an 2011 Camry, and a 2007 RAV4, so its just one more bit of fun to keep up with.
10-25-11, 10:06 PM
#7
I have 2 (little) kids, an Audi A6 2.7t, Mazda CX7, and an 88 turbo convertible. The car does take a backseat to spending time with the family, but there's still some time left for the car at the end of the day 
You may be right about the FCD, I just don't know enough about the REDOM ecu. A little searching says it's from RE-Amemiya, but you should cross the numbers to see what the ECU is tuned for, i.e. how many psi you can safely run without fear of detonation. I think it's more than likely another ROM ecu, so I'd be doing some research about that computer before fiddling with the boost at all.
You may be right about the FCD, I just don't know enough about the REDOM ecu. A little searching says it's from RE-Amemiya, but you should cross the numbers to see what the ECU is tuned for, i.e. how many psi you can safely run without fear of detonation. I think it's more than likely another ROM ecu, so I'd be doing some research about that computer before fiddling with the boost at all.
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10-26-11, 02:10 PM
#12
The various JDM chipped ECUs can just be regarded as glorified FCDs. Whatever other changes *might* have been made to fuel and timing, you won't be able to find out. It's an extremely risky proposition to guess that such-and-such chipped ECU is safe to X psi.
Don't run 10+ psi on a stock turbo with a stock fuel system. At the minimum you must upgrade the fuel pump. Upgrading the ECU and injectors, as well as porting the wastegate are also going to be highly recommended. A narrowband gauge won't tell you a thing. You're supposed to see it go into the "rich" range under boost, but the best you can do is estimate within 1-2 AFR points. That much variation is the difference between a running engine and a blown engine.
Don't run 10+ psi on a stock turbo with a stock fuel system. At the minimum you must upgrade the fuel pump. Upgrading the ECU and injectors, as well as porting the wastegate are also going to be highly recommended. A narrowband gauge won't tell you a thing. You're supposed to see it go into the "rich" range under boost, but the best you can do is estimate within 1-2 AFR points. That much variation is the difference between a running engine and a blown engine.
10-26-11, 02:33 PM
#13
The various JDM chipped ECUs can just be regarded as glorified FCDs. Whatever other changes *might* have been made to fuel and timing, you won't be able to find out. It's an extremely risky proposition to guess that such-and-such chipped ECU is safe to X psi.
Don't run 10+ psi on a stock turbo with a stock fuel system. At the minimum you must upgrade the fuel pump. Upgrading the ECU and injectors, as well as porting the wastegate are also going to be highly recommended. A narrowband gauge won't tell you a thing. You're supposed to see it go into the "rich" range under boost, but the best you can do is estimate within 1-2 AFR points. That much variation is the difference between a running engine and a blown engine.
Don't run 10+ psi on a stock turbo with a stock fuel system. At the minimum you must upgrade the fuel pump. Upgrading the ECU and injectors, as well as porting the wastegate are also going to be highly recommended. A narrowband gauge won't tell you a thing. You're supposed to see it go into the "rich" range under boost, but the best you can do is estimate within 1-2 AFR points. That much variation is the difference between a running engine and a blown engine.
I think I'll go rip out the carpet and see if I have a spec sticker on mine too.
I'm not only rich under boost, I'm rich (yes, on my narrowband) under all conditions except for decel. Again, I've yet to find a web page that says "REDOM does XXXXXXXX to your ECU."
If I have N374 everything, I'm guessingI need to swap over to N370 everything to get an RTEK to work properly... that kinda blows.
11-15-11, 04:39 PM
#18
The various JDM chipped ECUs can just be regarded as glorified FCDs. Whatever other changes *might* have been made to fuel and timing, you won't be able to find out. It's an extremely risky proposition to guess that such-and-such chipped ECU is safe to X psi.
Don't run 10+ psi on a stock turbo with a stock fuel system. At the minimum you must upgrade the fuel pump. Upgrading the ECU and injectors, as well as porting the wastegate are also going to be highly recommended. A narrowband gauge won't tell you a thing. You're supposed to see it go into the "rich" range under boost, but the best you can do is estimate within 1-2 AFR points. That much variation is the difference between a running engine and a blown engine.
Don't run 10+ psi on a stock turbo with a stock fuel system. At the minimum you must upgrade the fuel pump. Upgrading the ECU and injectors, as well as porting the wastegate are also going to be highly recommended. A narrowband gauge won't tell you a thing. You're supposed to see it go into the "rich" range under boost, but the best you can do is estimate within 1-2 AFR points. That much variation is the difference between a running engine and a blown engine.
What says the '7 club crowd?
11-15-11, 06:04 PM
#19
10.5-11 AFR's are about what the stock ecu is programmed for. Either you're running larger injectors than it was made for or the fuel map wasn't touched. It sounds safe and just acts like an FCD as RotaryRocket88 pointed out. You didn't mention if you did the pump or not, do it.
I doubt many people have any experience with that particular ecu, so I don't see how you're going to get a definitive 'yes' from anyone. I can absolutely tell you that it 'seems like it will work'.
I doubt many people have any experience with that particular ecu, so I don't see how you're going to get a definitive 'yes' from anyone. I can absolutely tell you that it 'seems like it will work'.
11-15-11, 06:10 PM
#20
stock ECU runs ~12.5:1 up to about, well until it blows up. i'm not sure where you guys are getting your figures from... this is good to about 10psi where with the stock fuel system it becomes unsafe and detonates or the fuel system caps out and it detonates.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 11-15-11 at 06:12 PM.
11-15-11, 06:46 PM
#21
My only idea is that my ecu hadn't tripped the 20k mile switch and was running rich. /threadjack
11-15-11, 07:26 PM
#22
The ECU matters little if the injectors are topping out and the fuel pump is unable to provide enough flow. Toss in a walbro, and you'll get increased fuel pressure if you are using the stock FPR. You'll be cramming more fuel through the injectors at the same D/C, but the ECU will still be running them at full-tilt before the secondary transition and near redline. With no corrections at all, a stock ECU will run the injectors up to max D/C (~80%) if the AFM tells it there's a ton of air coming in. For this issue, a reprogrammed ECU can't do much other than increase the max D/C cap a little bit.
Last edited by RotaryRocket88; 11-15-11 at 07:28 PM.
11-15-11, 08:34 PM
#23
The ECU matters little if the injectors are topping out and the fuel pump is unable to provide enough flow. Toss in a walbro, and you'll get increased fuel pressure if you are using the stock FPR. You'll be cramming more fuel through the injectors at the same D/C, but the ECU will still be running them at full-tilt before the secondary transition and near redline. With no corrections at all, a stock ECU will run the injectors up to max D/C (~80%) if the AFM tells it there's a ton of air coming in. For this issue, a reprogrammed ECU can't do much other than increase the max D/C cap a little bit.
Just seeing if I could safely play around with a ball/spring type boost controller without screwing anything up, I guess.
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