2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Bad vacuum leak - bypass fmic

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Old May 7, 2012 | 10:27 PM
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Bad vacuum leak - bypass fmic

I'm trying to find a large vacuum leak and I was thinking of bypassing the fmic. Is it ok to just bypass the fmic with a short tube.
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Old May 7, 2012 | 10:33 PM
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That's not vacuum. Vacuum is between the engine and throttle body. Anything between the filter and throttle body is just intake, and will cause an issue with idling and starting on a stock ECU that retains the AFM, but just so the record shows, that area is not vacuum.
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Old May 7, 2012 | 10:33 PM
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You may run a short pipe to bypass the FMIC... Don't let it run too long, though.
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Old May 7, 2012 | 10:34 PM
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But if you think you have an issue there, replacing it with a piece of pipe is fine, so long as you don't plan on driving it with that there.
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Old May 7, 2012 | 10:34 PM
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yes.
I have found vacuum leaks with a little contraption that was found on www.fighters-garage.com
Basically it is a Cap with a schrader valve(tire valve) and a gauge on it, that you can put on one of the pipe couplings at the turbo( I put it BEFORE the turbo),and then you pump about 15psi into you system and listen for leaks.
Very handy tool.
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Old May 8, 2012 | 06:30 AM
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From: Weirton, WV
Originally Posted by misterstyx69
yes.
I have found vacuum leaks with a little contraption that was found on www.fighters-garage.com
Basically it is a Cap with a schrader valve(tire valve) and a gauge on it, that you can put on one of the pipe couplings at the turbo( I put it BEFORE the turbo),and then you pump about 15psi into you system and listen for leaks.
Very handy tool.
Thanks for the tip but I could not find the contraption. Do you remember what it was called?
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Old May 8, 2012 | 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by AGreen
That's not vacuum. Vacuum is between the engine and throttle body. Anything between the filter and throttle body is just intake, and will cause an issue with idling and starting on a stock ECU that retains the AFM, but just so the record shows, that area is not vacuum.
Thanks for the help. We just put the engine back together again. This is the third time that this engine has been installed in this 7.
The engine will not idle, in fact it runs like crap. Its almost impossible to keep it running more than 1 minute and then I have to keep pumping the accelerator to get it to run that long.
I just want to bypass the fmic to take that section out of the equation.
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Old May 8, 2012 | 06:38 AM
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From: Weirton, WV
Originally Posted by dwb87
You may run a short pipe to bypass the FMIC... Don't let it run too long, though.
OK, thanks for the input.
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Old May 8, 2012 | 06:46 AM
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From: Weirton, WV
Originally Posted by AGreen
But if you think you have an issue there, replacing it with a piece of pipe is fine, so long as you don't plan on driving it with that there.
Thanks. I can't keep the engine running long enough to get out of the drivers seat as to make a visual inspection so I'm just trying to eliminate possibilities.


ash
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Old May 8, 2012 | 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by alritzer
Thanks for the tip but I could not find the contraption. Do you remember what it was called?
You don't buy it, you make it.

Here is how to make one of these. Just get a piece of PVC pipe the size of one of the intake's, preferably before the afm. Glue on a cap. Drill and tap a 1/4" MPT hole. Install a male air quick-connect. Clamp this tool onto the intake pipe using a rubber gasket. Set your air pressure regulator to 10 psi. Hook up the hose and let the entire intake pressurize.

You should find the leak easily-if that is the problem.

Good Luck!

-Jack
Attached Thumbnails Bad vacuum leak - bypass fmic-inake-pressure-tester.jpg   Bad vacuum leak - bypass fmic-inake-pressure-tester1.jpg  
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Old May 8, 2012 | 09:19 AM
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Here



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Old May 8, 2012 | 09:57 AM
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^ That would be better than bypassing the FMIC with a short tube.

I've seen those things for sale for such ridiculous prices. Like Jack is saying... Make one. It's a pretty self explanatory design.
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Old May 8, 2012 | 10:51 AM
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From: Goose Creek, SC
Originally Posted by alritzer
Thanks for the help. We just put the engine back together again. This is the third time that this engine has been installed in this 7.
The engine will not idle, in fact it runs like crap. Its almost impossible to keep it running more than 1 minute and then I have to keep pumping the accelerator to get it to run that long.
I just want to bypass the fmic to take that section out of the equation.
Did you properly install the crank angle sensor? Does it seem to bog down, or just die off as if it's not getting enough fuel? How's the fuel pressure? What injectors are you using? Are the spark plug wires connected properly?
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Old May 8, 2012 | 05:13 PM
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From: Weirton, WV
Originally Posted by jackhild59
You don't buy it, you make it.

Here is how to make one of these. Just get a piece of PVC pipe the size of one of the intake's, preferably before the afm. Glue on a cap. Drill and tap a 1/4" MPT hole. Install a male air quick-connect. Clamp this tool onto the intake pipe using a rubber gasket. Set your air pressure regulator to 10 psi. Hook up the hose and let the entire intake pressurize.

You should find the leak easily-if that is the problem.

Good Luck!

-Jack
Thanks Jack, I don't remember anybody talking about these. Sounds simple.
I'll definitely make one.
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Old May 8, 2012 | 05:21 PM
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From: Weirton, WV
Originally Posted by AGreen
Did you properly install the crank angle sensor? Does it seem to bog down, or just die off as if it's not getting enough fuel? How's the fuel pressure? What injectors are you using? Are the spark plug wires connected properly?
Yes, I'm sure the CAS is installed correctly, I've rechecked it several times and the spark plugs wires are correct, I've had them off several times.

IDK about the fuel, maybe it is starving. It starts right up but it is very hard to keep running. I have to keep pumping the gas and that only works for less than for a minute, and it just dies.
If I can get it to hold idle at 2000 it will slowly creep up to about 2800 and immediately drop back to 2000 and then repeat. TPS has been checked several times and is currently set at 1k ohms.
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Old May 8, 2012 | 08:33 PM
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From: Goose Creek, SC
How old is the gas in the tank?
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Old May 9, 2012 | 06:59 AM
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From: Weirton, WV
Originally Posted by AGreen
How old is the gas in the tank?
About 1/2 of it is from last November but I added about 5 gallons of premix to it. The premix was mixed at 50:1 using a high quality 2 stroke oil. I figured that when the old gas already in the tank and the new premix were combined that the overall premix in the tank would be approx 100:1.

I'm going to fabricate the leak detector gadget. I would be really nice if I found a really bad leak some place.

ash
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Old May 9, 2012 | 07:16 AM
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Most likely, you now have 10 gallons of useless fuel. You probably should have drained that gas first. I always drive my car to empty before letting it sit for a while (I know it's not something you could do at the time with a busted engine). I get deployed pretty often, and when I come back after about 90 days, I literally have to limp my car to the gas station. Not saying that's the absolute issue here, but 7 month old gas.... eek.
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Old May 9, 2012 | 07:37 AM
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From: Weirton, WV
Originally Posted by AGreen
Most likely, you now have 10 gallons of useless fuel. You probably should have drained that gas first. I always drive my car to empty before letting it sit for a while (I know it's not something you could do at the time with a busted engine). I get deployed pretty often, and when I come back after about 90 days, I literally have to limp my car to the gas station. Not saying that's the absolute issue here, but 7 month old gas.... eek.
OK, I see. If I don't find anything with the leak tester, I'll just drain the gas.

thanks
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