bad stuttering at mid rpms...
#1
bad stuttering at mid rpms...
ok...so if i get down on my car, anywhere around 4000-5500k the car will start stuttering for like 3 seconds then will be perfectly fine. also if im just cruising and i just give it a little bit of steady throttle the car feels like it starts to stutter a little bit.
what do you think...timing, ignition, fuel pump/filter?
what do you think...timing, ignition, fuel pump/filter?
#3
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Mine are!!! Is that the deal with that? I heard it could be the TPS...I also heard it could be the AFM or the Fuel Pump Relay...I have like 4 Fuel Pump Relays and they all do the same thing...But when I get on it I experience that very thing...If I tie open the exhaust ports (5-6) and remove the CAT will that possibly solve that?! I really want to know!
#5
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Mine is doing this too..it's really annoying, I am going to replace my ecu again...and ground that puppy good. I just replaced the main battery ground and i feel a short in the wiring led to this problem....Good luck and please post a result to your problem...
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#8
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Well, the AFM tested fine...the plate moves freely and the resistance levels were all in spec...So, I tested the TPS. I got 1.555 k-Ohms at closed throttle...spec it 1 k Ohm. I slowly moved the throttle open and the resistance started to rise...that is to be expected. Once I opened the throttle to about 20 degrees at 3.9 k Ohms I got an open until 22 degrees open at 4.22 k Ohms. So, I am going to replace my TPS!
After that I start on the exhaust...
Technical Note: TPS connector(Small three wire connector) Test wire A and B...Wire A is the single pin next to the locking clip on the connector and the lower right pin is the B wire... Here is a PC example...
_ <---Pin A
{ } <---Pin B
After that I start on the exhaust...
Technical Note: TPS connector(Small three wire connector) Test wire A and B...Wire A is the single pin next to the locking clip on the connector and the lower right pin is the B wire... Here is a PC example...
_ <---Pin A
{ } <---Pin B
#9
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ummm... kinad a had the same problem a year ago like when you were driving and while reving to 4, 5k started to feel like flooding, well the problem came up that the connector of the waterthermo sensor was a lil loose like the connector wasn't doing any contact with the sensor, I just plug it back in, and the sputtering was gone.
Hope helps
Hope helps
#12
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Originally posted by White 87 13B
Well, the AFM tested fine...the plate moves freely and the resistance levels were all in spec...So, I tested the TPS. I got 1.555 k-Ohms at closed throttle...spec it 1 k Ohm. I slowly moved the throttle open and the resistance started to rise...that is to be expected. Once I opened the throttle to about 20 degrees at 3.9 k Ohms I got an open until 22 degrees open at 4.22 k Ohms. So, I am going to replace my TPS!
After that I start on the exhaust...
Technical Note: TPS connector(Small three wire connector) Test wire A and B...Wire A is the single pin next to the locking clip on the connector and the lower right pin is the B wire... Here is a PC example...
_ <---Pin A
{ } <---Pin B
Well, the AFM tested fine...the plate moves freely and the resistance levels were all in spec...So, I tested the TPS. I got 1.555 k-Ohms at closed throttle...spec it 1 k Ohm. I slowly moved the throttle open and the resistance started to rise...that is to be expected. Once I opened the throttle to about 20 degrees at 3.9 k Ohms I got an open until 22 degrees open at 4.22 k Ohms. So, I am going to replace my TPS!
After that I start on the exhaust...
Technical Note: TPS connector(Small three wire connector) Test wire A and B...Wire A is the single pin next to the locking clip on the connector and the lower right pin is the B wire... Here is a PC example...
_ <---Pin A
{ } <---Pin B
how did you test the AFM? and did you clean the connector while you were at it?
#13
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that senor is located behind the waterpump next to the alternator, if you're facing front to the engine bay its on your left side at the bottom next to the alternator, you won't miss it.
#15
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Soia...I did clean the connector... I disconnected the AFM and tested the resistance levels between certain pins...if you have a book it is in there...if you don't I will have to get back to you. Also, to make sure that the air plate is moving freely I moved it with my finger slowly...it didn't catch anywhere...it moved nice and easy... I will post the procedure for the pins...
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