S5 T2

the engine has S5 N/A rotors. I'm afraid to blow it up without the engine management I need. So far I got a Knightsports chip and an SAFC which doesn't quite cut it. My supporting mods are a 255 fuel pump, FMIC, and Fluidyne radiator. Running with full intake an exhaust.

Would it be bad for the turbo if I disconnected the intercooler pipe and stuck the afm there? Using the turbo as sort of a header?

I know if you over port the wastegate it can be bad for the turbo. If I do this should I disconnect the wastegate line and maybe slighly restrict the turbo output?

I know most of you will say just park the car and save up for a standalone. I need something to drive in the meantime though.

 

No problem. Just make sure to put a filter on the inlet and outlet of the turbo to keep crap out of it, or just connect the inlet to the outlet with a piece of pipe.

Without the turbo pushing air into the engine, the engine will not create enough exhaust velocity/heat to overspin it. Remember, it's a closed loop system.

Turbo cars are often tuned this way since it makes it a lot easier to tune low load.

 

thanks for the fast reply

alright, I can drive

Without the pressure sensor seeing boost, do you think it will run fine or should I try to lean it out?

 

whiterock= BC? or somewhere in the US?

 

without the map sensor seeing boost. itll run as an N/A with low compression i supose.

 

no...I believe that the boost sensor being unplugged will allow you to actually boost higher than normal...

At least that's what I understood about that....I could be dead wrong though...

 

well if he doesn't have an fcd then yes your right! because the boost sensor is what tells the ecu ok I'm at that "unsafe" boost level now it's time to cut the fuel to the rear rotor

 

I'm almost tempted to run this setup with what I've got on the chipped ecu, but with 4x720 injectors. It will only be seeing 5-6 lbs of boost. In the end I want 10 though. I think that should put down somewhere near 300 horsepower.

With the S5 N/A rotors. I'm wondering if the stock ECU can pull the timing far enough that it wont detonate, or do I need to get something like e-manage or megasquirt so I can control timing?

 

the stock is 9.0 compression and this is 9.7. I think the stock boost level is 8. How much boost to cut back would run this nice at the ratio? I wish I knew more about this than just trial and error.

 

The ECU needs the pressure sensor plugged in. If you have it unplugged, you will weird effects like your secondary injectors firing regardless of load...

 

Walken, be very careful with that man! Remember when you use the SAFC to tune, it affects timing as well...


When I broke my engine in I ran the turbo open. It actually wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be since I have the 9.4:1 rotors speed-wise.

 

yeah, lol when I seen your setup I thought that was a good idea, but I needed more input

How does the SAFC affect timing? I thought It just plugged into the TPS and injectors... well I guess the ECU would see a change and start trying to adjust.

I guess I'm to the point where I gotta run this engine N/A until I can get an RE and a haltech

 

BTW this is NOT good for the turbo.. You will easily overspin it without any type of back pressure.. How bad is the damange? there is nothing to control how in RPMS the turbo will spool which can cause a variety of issues.

 

Yah, you should really like it if you do it, just be careful. The higher compression rotors do a lot for down-low/cruising, and will spool the turbo a little quicker (unless it's in my head, could be the porting)

The SAFC doesn't directly affect timing, but when you're tricking the ECU into thinking it's getting a different ammount of air than it actually is, the ECU will change timing on it's own.

If you get some time, come over and I'll take you for a ride, show you the haltech setup I have running etc.