2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

bad headlight switch

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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 12:53 AM
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From: kent/auburn now spokane,washington
bad headlight switch

Ok so I need a picture of a bad headlight switch, because I believe I bought a bad switch. I believe i know what im looking for so not positive.. because the new one kinda looked like the old one and I still dont have dash lights or tails. So any help would be great
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 01:04 AM
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From: PHL
any blackened marks on the circuitry would be a good indicator
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 01:06 AM
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ok there was non of those, there where some like crusty brown stuff but I dont know if that would cause it to be bad.
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 05:27 AM
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Originally Posted by kelton89
ok there was non of those, there where some like crusty brown stuff but I dont know if that would cause it to be bad.
Crusty brown stuff is not good for any electrical connector, but can usually be cleaned off. The best way to clean it is with electrical contact cleaner (they sell it in a spray can at electrical supply houses, and hopefully at auto parts stores too), because it will not cause additional corrosion. Read on the can though, to be sure it's safe to spray on your plastic switch before you buy it, and follow the directions.

You should also go to the archive section of this forum and download the chassis electrical section of the factory service manual (FSM) too, and read up on the headlight cluster switch section. It tells you how to test out the switch with a voltmeter to tell if it is working properly, it's around pages 15 to 25, depending on your model (turbo or NA)
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 07:59 AM
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Just a get a rebuilt switch from Icemark, http://www.mazdamark.com/ you're probably going to need a new light harness as well.

I HIGHLY recommend you also get the safety relay kit that he sells.

Pretty much every light except for the headlights are wired staright into that switch so your chance of frying it again are pretty good.
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 12:05 PM
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i rewired mine per marks write up. It seems to work okay, but the relay still gets really hot. I've had to replace the connectors once because the plastic melted.

I should note that I did not soulder, I just used the clips.
I would think that with or without soulder, it would still be getting as hot as it is.
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by stylEmon
i rewired mine per marks write up. It seems to work okay, but the relay still gets really hot. I've had to replace the connectors once because the plastic melted.

I should note that I did not soulder, I just used the clips.
I would think that with or without soulder, it would still be getting as hot as it is.
Mine doesn't get hot and I've ccrimped it in as well.
You're getting resistence somewhere along the way on those circuits.
Did you check/clean all the bulb sockets?
Did you re-use the original lighting harness?
My harness actually wound up with dead spots in some wires and I had to get a whole new one from Mazdatrix.
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 01:33 PM
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From: PHL
i've gone through a couple harnesses. I picked latest one up from the junk yard.

I didnt clean the bulb sockets tho. I'll check that out some of these days.
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 04:29 AM
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Make sure you have good ground connections too, everywhere. Lights draw more current when there is less voltage going thru them. Meaning - if you have a bad ground, and depending on where it is in the circuit, it COULD cause a few volt drop from the lights, which will make them pull a lot more current (study up on "I squared multiplied by R" in electricity 101 sections to see what I mean - too long to explain here)
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