Bad front diff mount?
06-04-13, 10:29 PM
#2
06-04-13, 10:34 PM
#3
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thats gonna be pretty hard to see, but ill look tomorrow, but i think it is. Everywhere i looked, everyone who had heard a loud bang like metal hitting together while accelerating through turns was the front diff mount.
06-05-13, 08:03 AM
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you pretty well have to loosen the subframe up good to get at it.You can leave the passenger side up,but the driver's needs to be undone and dropped enough so that you can get a clear shot at 3 17mm bolts that hold the mount to the diff..then another 2 on the subframe holding the mount to the subframe.
If you have stock exhaust you have to drop that y pipe,etc to get the frame to come down..
it's a big ol' job.
So really,dragging the subframe out from under the car will just let you inspect the rest of the bushing,etc up real close.
Take the brakes off the rear and hang them..on the shocks.trust me,you will thank me for just telling you that tip ahead of time..lol!
If you have stock exhaust you have to drop that y pipe,etc to get the frame to come down..
it's a big ol' job.
So really,dragging the subframe out from under the car will just let you inspect the rest of the bushing,etc up real close.
Take the brakes off the rear and hang them..on the shocks.trust me,you will thank me for just telling you that tip ahead of time..lol!
06-05-13, 08:08 AM
#7
I agree that dropping the whole subframe would be the way to go, especially if you haven't done it before on this car.
It's really not as hard as it looks (much easier w/ two people and two floor jacks) and it gives you the opportunity to install a pinion snubber, which will help save the front mount in the future.
It's really not as hard as it looks (much easier w/ two people and two floor jacks) and it gives you the opportunity to install a pinion snubber, which will help save the front mount in the future.
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06-05-13, 11:02 AM
#9
Yes.
The rear subframe was something I was most worried about when I renovated my chassis last fall but it turned out to be so much simpler than I had feared.
I'd recommend you prepare a few days ahead by liberally soaking the drive/half shaft bolts with Deep Creep or something...they were the crankiest part of the job for me.
Once they were off, dropping the frame took about 15 minutes and reinstall the same.
The rear subframe was something I was most worried about when I renovated my chassis last fall but it turned out to be so much simpler than I had feared.
I'd recommend you prepare a few days ahead by liberally soaking the drive/half shaft bolts with Deep Creep or something...they were the crankiest part of the job for me.
Once they were off, dropping the frame took about 15 minutes and reinstall the same.
06-05-13, 12:28 PM
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If you stick a long screwdriver in the driveshaft you can stop it from moving when you take the bolts off.
Mark the position of the driveshaft to the diff just to make sure you put it back on the same way it came off.
Mark the position of the driveshaft to the diff just to make sure you put it back on the same way it came off.
06-07-13, 04:47 PM
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https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/pinion-snubber-diff-mount-replacement-convertible-876959/
This is the write up I used. Worked perfectly. Don't forget the pinion snubber. I never bothered with attempting to preload the snubber. Just got it close. Works flawlessly.
This is the write up I used. Worked perfectly. Don't forget the pinion snubber. I never bothered with attempting to preload the snubber. Just got it close. Works flawlessly.
06-08-13, 11:48 PM
#14
While the subframe is down, you may as well do DTSS eliminator bushings, maybe rear wheel bearings, and lubricate your rear toe adjusters to be sure they move freely for your next alignment.
I think I have some good used diff mounts in my ebay store if you don't feel like buying a new one at retail. They cost more than you'd think.
I think I have some good used diff mounts in my ebay store if you don't feel like buying a new one at retail. They cost more than you'd think.
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