So because circumstances the progress of build has been seriously delayed. But in the down time while doing more research Ive had time to let my thoughts settle. Now Im starting the planning process all over again. So here is what im looking to get out my build. I'm trying to avoid turbos if i can . I would like hp to be between 300-315 range.The car will be daily driven. Is this achievable? how reliable will the FC be ?

my initial thoughts on accomplishing this goal:

bigger fuel injectors ID750cc
RE apex seals
high compression rotors( I read somwhere not sure how accurate it was but said the s5 had the highest compression rate)
third spark plug application(still researching that)
Apexi PFC ( with a tune of course)
OS Giken light steel flywheel
intake (Apexi)
exhaust ( Apexi)
header (definedauto)
fuel pump(walbro)
fuel regulator(NISMO)
Platnium Plugs(HKS/r NGK)


my gut tells me to look into some better rotor housing and stronger E-shaft while i am at. so what did i leave out?

 

Cheaper and more reliable to go turbo.

 

It'll be very hard to run that amount of hp n/a when you can run it easily turbo.

 

really? I figured a N/A engine would be more reliable then a turbo. But I guess when i think about it and setup is reliable so long as its properly maintained.

 

It's hard to reach that amount of hp or hard to maintain?

 

200hp is a hard number to reach on an N/A car that could be a daily driver and that is pushing it. Read thru the forums, this has been discussed hundreds of times.

 

300hp with n/a? Your gonna need a 20b for that

 

That was the original plan was but thought I'd see what the 13B would be capable of first. So are saying that it is impossible to get 300hp or near that range out of a 13B without the aid of turbo?

 

Carb and p port should be close lol

 

So after thinking on it really hard I've decided to go with a 13B turbo set up but now I'm thinking of 350-375 hp range. but single or twin turbo? this will be first turbo car so I'm just wondering what I'm getting myself so anyone have experience with both single and twin?

 

car is nearly gutted out. but since the rebuild wont start till next year ive decided to go turbo but I want to run S8 REW in the car. From what I can understand the engine is suspose to gross 280hp. Now I have searched this and even read the write up from fc3spro. so just to clarify there are 3 ways to go about mounting

1-- fab your own /r get shop to do it
2-- welding a cross member to use the FD mounts
3-- using a FC oil pan (any one know about this)

Then for wiring since I want to run the stock motor I should run the stock ECU as well. from my understanding it is do able. I read the connectors don't match up so you have to cut and match up the wires. Can anyone confirm that?

This car will be daily driven. so I want to just get it up and running for now and ill mod as I see fit from there. I know the build isn't going start till next year but if I manage to get my hands on J spec REW w/ transmission + wiring how much easier would that make this endeavor. I searched just to see found 2 for $2,220 and another $2,865. Still doing research on this but just to throw out a few more questions before I goto class is there a reason I can't use a downpipe for a FD instead of fabricating my own. and since its a FD motor is there any reason why FD exhaust wouldn't work with this setup? and links you guys got will help thank you.

 

Oy vey, you have no idea what you're in for.
This is not a condemnation, just a statement of fact.

Mounting the engine/tranny is the easiest/fastest part of the project.
You exacerbate the issue by choosing a package for which no real good solutions exist (a FC turbo will obviously drop right in and excellent mounts for GM V-8s are readily available) but even after the custom fabbing of mounts is complete, you've only solved the first of the endless issues- and expenses- you'll face.

No, the FD exhaust will not work...the two chassis are completely different.

I'm not saying it can't be done, nor that you in particular couldn't do it but I'd seriously consider exactly how much money you're willing to spend to pick up an extra 100 hp.

I would also rethink the concept of making your daily driver into a project car.
The deadlines in your real life are immutable, the timeframes of swap projects are so fluid as to defy management.
Your half built car does not give a **** that you have to get to work.

 

Its good to hear from you I know this is going to be pain to believe im well aware of that fab work and the labor time wont be a problem. my biggest concern is the wiring for it all. and thanks for clearing that up about exhaust as for funds when spring time rolls around ill have about 12K maybe a little more to use for this. I already have a daily driver but want my FC up and running. and I would never drop a V8 in there. But the main reason I am doing all this because its what I want . So with that being said are then any links you can think of for me check to get more info on this or do you know anyone who is still active on the forum that has done this.

 

since the 99+ FD was never exported, there is no english wiring diagram. we also do not have the Japanese diagram, all we seem to have is some HKS sourced pinout of the 99+ ECU.

this is good enough to get the 99+ engine running in a US FD (we did it last summer), but it would be hard to do from scratch.

the best way would be to get a front clip, and that way you have all the wiring, and can get the clip running without a CEL, and then transfer it over to the FC body.

the S4 FC wiring is completely different from the S5 FC wiring. the S5 wiring is similar to the 92-95 FD wiring. the 97-2003 FD wiring is again completely different.

plus physically getting the FD engine in the FC body kind of sucks, it doesn't fit very well, the 20B actually fits better, and the 13BT is a bolt in…

if i was going to start from scratch i'd run a 13BT and a plug in aftermarket ecu (PFC, Haltech) and a T4 turbo, 300hp is easy, and you'd actually be driving the car instead of working on it.

 

actually if you weren't in virginia, i'd trade you an REW swap for a 13BT…

my swap even has pedigree, its the subframe ReTed watched Mr Ko build in 1994. i'm also using the turbo manifold that is pictured in the twin scroll removal on Ted's website.

 

Are they autographed?

 

I just made 317hp at 10psi on Friday...

Megasquirt 2
BNR Stage 2
720s/1000s
Stock ports

 

I will keep that option in mind obviously need to do more reasearch on this . But im wondering would the rewiring from 94 be a bit less painful?

 

it is, but only because we have the diagram. its still a big job.

 

Well that is atleast good to know. I knew this wouldn't be an easy task when I decided to do it. But do you know any members on here who have done this swap already? (that are still active)

 

We've done the REW into FB chassis. The wiring is easy in either chassis, if you go with a complete replacement engine/emissions harness that is built for the purpose.

 

the description they had was engine w/tranny, complete wiring harness, and ECU also I don't need any of the emissions stuff so that should make it easier

 

Who is "they"? And what harness and ECU are you going to use?

 

essentially, this is what the central question to this thread is. you want 300+ HP in a daily driven Gen II and your two major ideas of getting it are perhaps the two most difficult that any level-headed person could imagine.

stop trying to skate uphill. put a solid engine in the thing, choose an appropriate turbo, marry them, make them both happy and enjoy driving the car.

this was just funny, so i had to quote it. i might even have to find a way to get it into my signature.

 

Even a well built FC will give you trouble. I just experienced a water pump failure today, and it was only about 2 years old. I'm at the point now that almost everything is new, and even the "new" parts are starting to fail.