StarScreaM2k1

So got the rebuild done, and i am in the breakin stage now! So i have put about 500 KMs on it (bout i dunno... 350 Miles for the southerners). And well i ALWAYS have the hotstart problem. Like i always have to use my fuel kill switch to get the car started. Now lastyear when i was checking my PD, i got all my injectors flow tested and cleaned. But i still have this bloody problem... is there a likely hood my injectors ar fuxxored? Also i think i have a Vac leak from a OLD SKOOL Hks BOV (the one where theres 2 vac lines to go to it) i got 1 hooked up, but where does the other one go then?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

hot start problems are generally caused by:

1) low compression
2) faulty thermosensor or wiring
3) low or high fuel pressure(faulty regulator, plugged up fuel filter, faulty pump, etc)

StarScreaM2k1

hrm..
Thanks Karack!

if its low compression, by what point roughly in my rebuild should i start seeing better compression? like i said i am currently @ 500 Kms...

thermosensor? (wheres that at, and how does it play a role)

i havent even checked out my fuel filter, i guess i should do that, However i was planning on changing my fuel setup to run a FPR, and change to braided lines and get a inline fuel filter with a changeable element (rather then the Mazda 50 dollar ****).

Any more advice guys?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

breakin compression is dependent on the seals you used and the condition of the housings and irons so it varies anywhere from 500miles to 2000 or so.

thermosensor is on the backside of the water pump, green connector.

StarScreaM2k1

okie.. so for reference.. i used the Atkins Rebuild Kit, MINUS the apex seals and springs. I went with Mazda OEM Apex Seals and Springs. As for housings.. i went with New JHB Cerment Housings.

How does the thermosensor make a diff? I tapped just above it for my Water Temp Gauge but i still have the stock one on there. So i should just check if tis on there correctly? is there something to calibrate or something (i wanna make sure i get all my bases covered).

and lastly, can it be the injectors themselves?
Thanks for your help so far Karack

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

if you had the injectors serviced i doubt they are the problem but they certainly are a possibility.

the thermosensor is the input for the ECU to know what temperature the engine is operating at, if it thinks the engine is cold still then the fuel maps will be off and it will be tossing too much fuel into the engine, if the sensor is bad then it defaults to about ~170F i believe which should be fine for running warm but not sure about cranking when warm. testing is as simple as ohm testing the sensor at room temp or in a cold water glass and then warming up the sensor to engine operating temps (180F) and measuring the resistance again. you can also ohm test the circuit back down to the ECU to be sure that is good as well or simply get a reading for the sensor at the ECU and compare it cold vs warm.

StarScreaM2k1

sweet thanx, i'll try that....

just another.. a vac leak (a small one) cant cause this right... like its no way possible (read the above about my BOV. you'll see what i mean, causes the engine to have a shitty idle that is bouncy)

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

it could affect it but i doubt it would prevent the engine from starting easily enough unless it is a rather large leak. what you can do is unplug the BOV or wrap it up with a plastic bag tightly so it won't leak and see if that cures it. BOVs don't generally change much from cold to warm so if it was leaking a bit when warm it should do the same when cold which is why i disregarded it but it is possible.

StarScreaM2k1

Alright, i'll give that a try. It just i got the rebuild done. and shes nice when i am pressing the gas, cept for around 3000 sometimes i can feel it stutter, but if i push it to 4000K is fine. She really wants to hit boost! but yeah i hate the fact that after a rebuild i got this dumb hotstart **** constantly.. its like i ALWAYS have to use my switch, even when cold. So its a **** off... on the upside... shes loud with my exhaust now!

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

do you happen to have larger injectors or are they the stock 550's?

StarScreaM2k1

yep... 550 primaries and 720cc secondaries... but they are high imp (Rc engineering). and i checked those with a multimeter to verify they are high imp

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

well then i would probably just try and isolate the BOV then test the other things i listed first.