WannaSeeMyWankel

I'm swapping my diff out for a LSD. I'm having a hard time getting at the front mount bolts. Are there any tricks to getting these off? Thanks guys

dennis blackstone

What have to do if I rember correctly you must undo the bolts on the subframe on each side I think size 22 bolt and 14 mm then undo lateral bar pry bar the subframe down undo drive shaft then get a looooong exstention for the bolts with a swivel I think 17mm

WannaSeeMyWankel

I have to drop the subframe to get the diff out? Thats crazy, theres gotta be a different way. If i drop the subframe, does the suspension and all have to come out too?

Innovation

iTrader: (1)

You don't have to drop it all the way just a few inches. I changed mine that way but just
hope King Knog didn't put the nuts on, mine were tight as hell.

cafcwest

The FSM says disconnect the subframe on the driver side and lower a few inches so that you have access to the bolts. I did that, then used several 1/2 extensions in parallel so that I could use a braker bar outside of th car, not under it.

KompressorLOgic

iTrader: (6)

when i did mine i had to drop the subframe a bit, but if you got that many extensioins id rather do that lol

gotrotors?

Screw that, you dont have to do that. Get a short 17 mm combo wrench, and a longer one. Youll be able to get them, they are just a real bitch and you will need to give your wrists alot of breaks. I have done it a few times and i have NEVER dropped the subframe at all.

gotrotors?

Oh yeah, one more thing. Once the driveshaft is off, undo the nut in the middle of the pinion, and pull out the yoke (on the diff) make sure you drain it and all that too, itll pour out once you get the yoke out. With the yoke on, it will get snagged on the subframe on the way out. Also, to get the diff to clear the rear pins on the way out, get a longggggg crowbar and pry the diff down, moving from one side to the other. They will eventually get enuff clearance to pop off the pins. When going back in, i found help is necissary. Get a friend to help you put it in, and while he is guiding it in, put the handle side of a wratchet into the bushing and move the bushings to line them up with the pins. Its really time consuming, but possible nonetheless.


Hope that helped. I pray to god i never have to do it again, but knowing my driving...i will.

Innovation

iTrader: (1)

If you do it that way make sure you read the Haynes manual for the correct torq settings for the yoke!

dennis blackstone

You don't have to take the yolk out just let it hang undo both bolts either side of subframe pry bar it down a little some exhaust you may have to take of (we did not ) put a jack under the diff unbolt the two bolts it took us 2 hours to do but we were satisfied after we drove it buy the way we put a snubber under the diff so it would not have to much wheel hop play as well as we welded the diff mount , no more wheel hop it runs smooth I will post pics of procedure

oakback

If you decide to remove the subframe, it's way easier to get the diff in and out. I decided to change out my diff, and replace a bunch of bushings at the same time. I just could not for the life of me get that diff back in without removing the subframe.

WannaSeeMyWankel

thanks for the help guys...what did you use to suspend the vehicle? prop it up on jackstands on the frame rails? i hate getting under a car on jackstands. My neighbor has a pit, could it be done in a pit with the wheels still on and all?