On a stock S4 motor with stock turbo computer, how do I retard timing?
Do I turn the CAS clockwise or counter?

 

You use a timing light.

 

Counter clockwise... Make sure u use a light. And why are you retarding the timing?

 

I have a timing light however was not sure which way the degrees work.
I want to retard the timing because I'm doing a 6 port turbo and getting detonations at WOT or Boost.

 

Here this should help. Make sure you put the timing light wire on leading 1 or 2 plug wire (it doesn't matter which one), and use the yellow mark on the eccentric shaft pulley to set your timing. yellow mark is for leading and the red is for trailing. Just do the leading.

 

are you running a wideband as well? may not be timing related at all.

 

Agree'd.

What's your a/f's like?

 

No I don't currently have a wideband.
The seems to be running rich since 660cc injectors on stock computer.
At the time of detonation not sure what's going on so I'm rewiring the fuel pump to a rocker switch with a 10 amp fuse.

 

10 amps is a little too small for the turbo pump, and i sure hope you are using the turbo pump..

 

Yeah but it's all I have at the moment and besides it didn't change a thing.
The fuel pump is dark green so according to pictures it is the T2 fuel pump.
The (Almost) Complete Guide To Turbocharging The Naturally Aspirated Second Generation RX-7 - Fuel Pump

 

Here is a video

 

Wow. That CAS cover is awesome. I'm going to order that.

 

make sure your trailing plug wires are going to the proper trailing plug. if it is a turbo converted motor be sure the p/s wire to the knock circuit is disconnected and do a sweep of the TPS to make sure it isn't dropping voltage randomly.

 

Sure it isn't just a heat shield or something banging around? I hear a rattle at idle, but I can't make out much else from the video. Also, you'll need to drop your idle to under 1k to get your timing set correctly, 750 rpm preferably.

 

Yes the trailing plug wires are in the correct spot.

I can't get it lower than 1100 rpm.

Here is a list of what the car has.
I'm using S5 LIM and UIM with S4 hybrid turbo and S4 electronics.
Greddy BOV and AEM Tru Boost Controller with 3 in downpipe to straight pipe.
BAC is blocked off, TPS unplugged, OMP blocked off, IAT unplugged, N318 boost sensor, with 660cc Greddy injectors all around.
I took a peak at the fuel pump and it was dark green indicating that it is a T2 fuel pump.
I cut pin 1R, 2K, and 3G since I'm using the NA harness.
With the TPS plugged in the car won't even idle.
IAT is unplugged because the throttle body elbow insert for the sensor is enlarged since the previous owner was running Haltech.
Same situation where the boost gauge reads anything over 0 the car sputters and popps very loud

 

Sounds like it adjustment time for that TPS... Did you check the ohm reading of it while warmed? And voltage to ecu?

 

running the TII or n/a ECU?

 

Do you have the CAS stabbed correctly? It sounds like it could be off a tooth.

 

The TPS is not correctly mounted since the previous owner of the throttle body messed with the springs.
I ghetto rigged it to see if it would help anything however unsuccessful with the adjustment.
Here is a video of how I mounted the TPS if it helps.

 

I was using the N341 ECU but switched to N332.

I'll restab the CAS but I swear it was dead on when I timed it this morning.

 

Ok to correct the TPS issue I used my NA throttle body to the turbo UIM so I could have a proper functioning TPS adjustment screw.
The only issue I see now is the TPS adjustment screw is upside down and so is the idle adjustment.
Also the studs are too short so I used the ones off the NA UIM.
These are both minor obstacles and shouldn't be a problem when I put it all back together tomorrow.
Unfortunately it is dark outside and my neighbors will hate me if I try to adjust the TPS now and adjust the timing.

 

Check that when you can. When you restabbed the CAS did you have the ecc pulley to TDC? (lined up with the yellow leading mark) if it's off a tooth the timing light can show that it's in time with the light even though the CAS is off.

 

CAS should look like this when installed. With the 2 points just barley at the corners of the sensors.

 

Yes the pulley was marked up to the yellow mark however since my idle is so high both trailing and leading show to be firing at the same time.
I need to lower my idle like RXspeed16 said.
I'm hoping with the NA throttle body it will be low enough.
I lined up the timing marks on the drive gear and body of the CAS and turned it counter clockwise to retard the timing.

 

Yes you need to lower the idle. And leading 1&2 will show the same on the pulley but trailing 1&2 won't. Trailing 1 will show the red mark on the pulley. So leading 1&2 and trailing 1 all fire at the same time. Trailing 2 won't show on the pulley.