Ok I got everything back together but I ran into 2 problems.
The throttle cable is too long for the NA throttle body so the pedal has too much free play and the car idles at 1k.
I'm going to remove the throttle body to loosen the fast idle screw to see if that helps with the idle and rig something up for the throttle cable just long enough till I buy another T2 throttle body.

 

Yes! I'm so happy!
I finally got my engine to drop below 1k so I could time it properly.
I tightened up all the adjustments on the NA throttle body to allow the least possible amount of air through.
It dropped to 900 but when I went to time it I found it was advanced by apx. 20 degrees.
I retarded L1 to 5 ATDC(yellow mark) and the idle dropped to 500-700.
The idle is bouncy so I believe that the TPS is the culprit since it's not plugged in.
I tried to adjust it but my DMM wouldn't get a reading from the TPS.
I'm going to swap it out with another sensor when I get home.
Although the timing is finally dead on I'm still experiencing popping noise sorta like detonations when boost kicks in.

 

best way is to hook up your DMM black lead to the battery negative terminal or solid engine ground, backprobe the green wire on the TPS(connector still connected, engine full warmed up) and adjust it to read 1 volt with the throttle closed.

not sure why so many threads use the resistance method, it doesn't account for resistance in the wiring all the way down to the ECU or voltage fluctuations in the 5Vref wire.

 

Hmm. I've never heard of this volt measuring method but the resistance method sucks I could never get a reading even before the turbo setup.
I'll adjust the TPS and post back.
Thanks Karack.

 

OK I tried to adjust the TPS and got 1.28v but the adjustment screw didn't do anything.
With the TPS plugged in it idled smooth as butter.
It's a lot better than before where if the TPS was plugged in the the car would die.
I still can't hit boost so now I'm thinking the IAT sensor needs to be plugged in.
I have already ordered a used S4 T2 throttle body which comes with the elbow to the intercooler.
Here is a video of when I plugged in the TPS.
The idle is a little high due to the idle adjustment screw.

Here is another video of the popping noises when boost starts to build up.
Sorry for the shitty quality.
My phone sucks.

One more thing, is the IAT crucial for hitting boost?
I know this is a stupid question.

 

Is it best to check for 1v with the TPS still plugged into its connector or unplugged?

 

Nevermind I just reread your post. Still connected is the answer.

 

I got 1.28v but that was with the NA throttle body.
I hope when the new T2 throttle body comes in I can really adjust it.

 

The new throttle body is in.
The IAT and TPS are both hooked up.
I adjusted the TPS to 1v per Karack's method.
I also replaced all the hose clamps.
The car still makes a loud popping backfiring kinda of noise when I hit 0 on the boost gauge.
I still can't go into boost.
Does anybody else have an idea?

 

I can't really hear what is going on in the video... Did you check all your vacuum lines? Are they hooked up correctly? Did you get ride of that tiny 10amp fuel pump fuse yet? Without a wideband you really don't know what is going on... Are the 660cc injectors dirty? Low or high impedance injectors? Are you sure you don't have the primary and secondary injector harness wires mixed up? How's the resistor pack for the injectors any good? Afm? Pressure or boost sensor ok? Make sure all the wires are tight in the ecu plugs. Bad waste gate??? Idk just throwing out random things I would check...

 

Wow. Good response.
I'll make another video for you.
I didn't rewire the fuel pump cuz there was no benefit when I did it other than a cut off switch.
I ordered a wideband yesterday just waiting till it comes in.
The injectors are new greddy and low impedence.
I switched the resistor pack but it had no effect.
AFM is a new remanufactered from Pepboys.
Boost sensor is used from Rotary Resurrection.
Well I have the AEM Tru Boost Controller so it interferes with the wastegate.
I ran the car without the boost controller but again no effect.
What would happen if the injector harnesses are mixed up?
The harness seems tight, no room to switch the harnesses.

Ok I just tried to start it and now it won't idle.
I tried it again and it flooded.
I think that the 660cc may be too big on the primary for the 6 port turbo.

 

i have never seen a reman AFM for an RX7 worth half a spit. i have 2 remans on the shelf that got replaced with good used ones. see if they can order another and try it or if not see if you can get a refund on the silver painted piece of hot garbage.

sorry, that sounded biased.

 

Well I still have a reman from when I was NA and it worked fine.
I ordered another reman but it will be here tomorrow or tuesday due to the holiday.
For now I'm just gonna swap out the old reman NA with the new reman T2 to see what happens.

 

I would check continuity between the injector plugs and ecu to make sure they are for sure right. Just cause its "tight" doesn't mean it's right. Also someone correct me if I'm wrong but aren't you suppose to use high impedance injectors with the resistor pack??? Isn't that what the resistor pack is for, to knock down the impedance of the injectors?

 

Yup what he said ^

 

Also, you upgraded the fuel injectors but what about the fuel pump?

 

I didn't mess with the fuel pump because when I took it out it was dark green meaning it is a turbo pump.

Yes!
I just switched out the reman T2 AFM with the reman NA and I was able to hit 5 psi before it started to backfire.
I didn't put on the air filter because it looked dirty and clogged.
Could a dirty filter be the cause of no boost to begin with?
Or was the NA AFM at its limit at 5 psi?

 

the n/a AFM will open more than the TII AFM will with the same amount of air being pulled through, in combination with the larger injectors it may just be running excessively rich with that combination.

the n/a AFM will work as a temporary solution but it won't really run right until you get a good TII AFM.

 

I tried the reman T2 AFM but the car wouldn't stay on.
I ordered a new reman T2 AFM but they sent it back.
Im going to try to get my money back then I'll look in the for sale threads.

 

You did upgrade your injectors right? Why Would you keep a stock t2 pump made to push the stock, smaller than whatcha got injectors?!?!

Sounds like you made some headway with the afm swap out. Get a good t2 afm. NOT a reman...

 

tell them to take it back if they can't get you a replacement under warranty. find a good used one in the for sale section.

 

Ok. They gave me a new mostly due to the fact that I work at the store lol.
I drove the car with the NA AFM to work and managed to hit 7.68 psi and it was amazing!
I already swapped in the T2 AFM so I'll test drive the car tonight on my way home.

 

No sir. The resistor pack is wired in series to bump up the resistance of 2-4 ohm injectors to something that wont fry the ECU (8+ ohms).

 

Yup... I had to look that one up after I posted it to see but I get the idea now... I'm not sure how I forgot that after just installing my RC's and wiring the resistors inline with the harness, duh me!!! 😨

 

Someone has to have a good one for sale for ya! I'd trust these forum guys more than pep boys!