Yeah me too.
The only reason I got it there was because my NA AFM is a reman and it works great.
Anyway I got my money back so now I'm looking on forum.
The NA surprisingly does a decent job.
If the AFM doesn't fix it I think a SAFC is next to go along with the wideband.

 

the n/a AFM will increase fuel flow more than the TII AFM, it may run ok but it will be quite a bit rich which is probably going to cause stumbling and premature spark plug fouling, a turbo AFM on a non turbo engine has the reverse effect which it will run too lean and buck/hiccup under high loads. target AFRs under high loads being about 11:1, the n/a afm on a turbo will likely put it sub 10's which the plugs/ignition system will have a difficult time coping with. non turbo target AFR being about 12.5-13:1 under high loads it would be about 15:1 with the turbo AFM with the engine laboring to make power from a lean mixture.

push on the flapper door of each and you can feel the spring tension is tighter on the turbo AFM so it takes more air to open the door the same amount as the non turbo AFM.

i swear the reman units are just bead blasted, a quick voltage drop test is performed and if it passes it is sold as remanufactured. same is said for just about any electronics from these parts stores, the bead blasting process causes more harm than good. the reman alternators fail because the connections rust and have high resistance and burn out the regulators.. junk.

 

Ok.
I'll order the T2 AFM from ebay since no luck on the forum.
My wideband came in today so as soon I get it hooked up I'll post back with some info.
As far as the whole bead blasting process I don't know if that's true or not but the reman AFM suck *****.
I know the car is running rich because of the bigger injectors and it popps loud on high load.
I took the spark plugs out and they were filthy.
I can kinda hit 7 psi in first but all the other gears go up to 3-5 before more popping occurs.

 

Well, while I've been using the NA AFM as a temp till the T2 AFM comes in the EGI fuse would pop while taking a hard turn.
Yesterday the car died on the street but I put in another 30 amp to get me going.
About 10 feet later the fuse pops again but I managed to coast into a high school parking lot.
My brother came to pick me up and we bought some fuses from Oreilly's.
I put in the 40 amp first and the seemed fine until I smelt something burning, the voltage gauge dropped to 10, and the tachometer wasn't working.
I pulled over into a gas station, popped the hood(engine still running) and found the 40 to be melting but not blown.
After moving some wires around and thinking I found that the White/Red wire to the EGI fuse melted.
It melted from the fuse to the resistors by the brake booster and down to the ECU.
Lucky I have and extra harness(I think).
But what would cause this to happen?

 

the EGI fuse powers up the fuel injectors, ignition system and last but not least all of the solenoids that function on the engine. if you have the rat's nest intact try disconnecting all of the solenoid connectors as well as the BAC and ACV connectors on the other side. replace the fuse with a 30A and turn the key on, see if it blows, if not start connecting all those connectors one by one until it pops and you found the problem.

sometimes if the rat's nest is removed a wire may be grounding out on the engine.

 

Ok the rat's nest has been removed.
I'm going to remove the harnesses and replace the burnt wire.
Idk if there is a short but it makes sense.
The harness is severely cut from the previous owner.

 

I'm frustrated.
The wire harness is a mess.
I just wanna go haltech now.
Idk which one to get.
Mazdatrix sells the Sport 1000 plug and play but idk if this comes with a new harness or does it use the factory one?
I just wanna replace the harness and run haltech.

 

I thought it over and got to work on the harness.
I took pictures to show the burnt wires.
Karack was right a wire from the rats nest that was cut shorted out.
I replaced the engine harness with a good spare(no cut wires) from an 87 GTU.
The other side I am in the process in repairing the other side.
The fuel pump resistor/relay by the brake booster may have to be replaced.
If I run the fuel pump with a fuse and switch to the battery can it be deleted?

 

The plug running to that particular relay has a couple of Blue/Red wires and a couple of Blue wires. Jumper these wires together and the relay is bypassed.

 

best to just cut out the wires that got cooked and replace those induvidually one at a time. looks like you may need a new relay/connectors to fix the main relay that got smoked. if it's bypassed wouldn't the fuel/ignition system always be hot? sounds like a draw waiting to happen.

 

He's not questioning the Main Relay but the Fuel Pump Resistor/Relay.

 

Yes. That's exactly what I'm doing but at the same time going to rewire the fuel pump with a fused switch.



Exactly. It's the relay by the booster not under the dash.
How would exactly loop it?
Blue with blue?
Black with black?

 

B/R with the Blue.

 

the fuel pump resistor is behind the RF headlight, the pictured relay above circled in yellow is the main relay.

series 4 n/a didn't have the pump resistor relay, series 4 turbo and both series 5 had it.

 

Well if I rewire the fuel pump couldn't I just do without it?
Ok I'll try to fix it and rewire the fuel pump, but if that doesn't work I'll just bypass it.

 

you can do without it to power the fuel pump but it still needs to be there to cut and feed power to the ignition and the rest of the fuel system and car.

 

I rewired the pump and fixed the resistor/relay but the car won't stay on.
I think it's a vacuum leak, just don't know where it's at.

 

what's the car doing now?

with the rewired fuel pump the AFM can't shut off fuel anymore so vacuum leaks will be less prone to shutting it down. this is if you rewired it to bypass the whole 25 year old antiquated system.

 

Idk car would start but I could hear a loud air noise from the UIM/LIM region.
I took off the plenum and found that the primary injector oring fell off and the UIM wasn't on right.
Now the car won't start.
It's like it's not getting fuel or spark but I think the toggle switch may be defective.
I used an old toggle switch with a 30 amp fuse.

 

i've seen voltage issues cause the main relay to surge, which could be causing the injectors to not fire. basically the relay will buzz, maybe the injectors as well. still trying to use that cooked main relay?

 

Yeah I'm still using the burnt relay.
Today I'm going to swap it with another from a friend's fc.

 

I rewired the fuel pump again since one of the connections was faulty.
I replaced the injector oring on the primaries since they were hard.
The fuel pump resistor/relay didn't need to be swapped.
The 7 runs good with the new wires and constant 12v to the fuel pump.
I'm still waiting to install the wideband and install the gasket from the turbo to downpipe.

 

Ok cars runs great!(besides the vacuum caps popping off)
I hit a wall when boost hits 8.6 psi, I'm assuming is because the factory ecu.
Will the ecu cut off at 8.6 psi with the fuel pump wired to the battery?
Thanks to everybody for helping me out.
I'll never buy another reman AFM.

 

That 8.6psi wall is the factory overboost fuel cut.

 

If its an N/A though, shouldn't it not have a fuel cut??