torean

ok, in the process of putting in new injectors cause the engine was flooding too fequently.....since the UIM and TB are off i might as well modd the TB and clean the UIM....i dont plan on removing the thermo crap...just because i like my idle...but i do plan on removing the secondary throttle plate....thing is...i read the write up on fc3spro but i dont plan to do that extensive of a modification...so can i just remove the plates..leave in the rotating shaft and call it a day?....

want the car to be up and running asap....so not going to bother with JB weld and NPT fittings and stuff

torean

while im at it...i plan on installing resistors near the ECU..but cant find the wires that control the secondaries...i cant find it on the FSM...anyone know?

7th Heaven

yeah, but remove the shaft holding on the plates too, just skip down a few steps the how-to on the write up, it isnt too hard. looks kinda strange with a metal bar there in the way (not that you can see it, but you know).

torean

my main concern with removing the bar would be how to plug up the hole after its removed....i really dont want to mess with JB weld if this would do the trick...thanks....question about injector wire at the ECU is still up in teh air...anyone?

cwsttu

hey ho whats up... heres the map for the ecu.. jsut put a resistor on the wires you need

blue is by secondaries... and red is by primaries

cwsttu

oh and yes that is for a turbo model... my n/a one is different... just so you know

torean

wow.....cwsttu to the rescue...thx

Snrub

iTrader: (1)

After removing the shaft, drill/tap the hole and put a bolt in it. I also used locktite on the bolt.

wpgrexx

as long as the throttle plates are set correctly and your BAC is still hooked up, you can totally ditch the thermowax crap and do the full TB mod. I don't see a point to doing just half the mod

dbgeek

Just a note... Your car will not want to stay running upon startup without the thermowax. It will idle fine once it is warmed up, but be prepared to sit there holding the revs manually until it gets warm enough to idle on its own. I am reminded of this now that its getting cold out and I have to sit in the car until it is warm enough to live on its own.

NZConvertible

This is not "half the mod". The so-called "full" TB mod is actually the removal of two completely seperate systems from the TB; the thermowax and the double throttle system. They have no effect on each other and there's no reason why you have to remove both. Removing the double throttle system and leaving the thermowax operative improves throttle response (Turbo ONLY) and doesn't negatively affect cold idle. So it's not half the mod, it's doing one mod instead of two. I did this and recommend it.

torean

ok...i did the mod today and managed to slap everything back together.......idles fine like before....but i now i boost even when in neutral.....7psi in neutraul....ohh yeah...wg is not ported....is this safe to drive on teh street if i keep an eye on the boost guage?

rotarygod

iTrader: (1)

How are you getting 7 psi in neutral?

torean

550/750 injectors, non ported s4 wg, sending out ecu next week to be rteked

the exhaust smells like gas....easy to get a quick buzz just being behind the car and once secondaries kick in it backfires

Snrub

iTrader: (1)

You did nothing but the TB mod and now you're getting 7psi @ neutral? That's NOT normal.

torean

i put in the 550/750...im guessing the extra fuel spools up the turbo

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Well it's not too cold here(50-60 in the mornings) but I have NEVER had this problem.

I have removed the secondary plates and the thermowax.
My car will idle very low at start up but it will not die off.

Honestly I have not found any dramatic imporvements since I did it BUT it is MUCH easier to remove the UIM now. No coolant lines or extra throttle linkage to mess with.

If you've removed the BAC(pointless to do so on a daily driven car) then that would be why it won't idle.
-------------------------------------------
Back on topic.
I was in the same boat as you. I wanted to just remove the thermowax.
I sat in my room watching tv and started to remove the thermowax.
After 10 minutes of TV watching/working I removed it. I then just kept going.
It is VERY VERY VERY simple.
The hardest part is tapping the old holes which I did in another 10 minutes.
Then going to the store and buying a NPT pipe plug. I just used a bit of locktite and some RTV to seal the holes.

NZConvertible

Extra fuel does not "spool up the turbo". It is highly unlikely you can generate that much boost when free-revving, and certainly not just from doing the TB mod (which has only a very small effect on flow).