I got my injectors back from WitchHunter Performance on thursday so today I went and put them back in. While I had things apart I swapped out the FPD for a banjo bolt. Got everything connected, cranked the car and only a good attempt to start. I checked for fuel leaks and the banjo is leaking. I have another fitting I could try, as I just re-used the fitting that was on the FPD. This leak would make the car not want to start right? If I am thinking correctly, the leak wouldn't let the fuel build to proper pressure needed for the injectors.

If anyone from WitchHunter reads this, thanks for doing a great job cleaning my skanky injectors.

RR87

 

this isn't answering your problem because I have no clue,
but my rx7 is a she too...

 

^ helpful.


the FPD likely isn't the problem unless it is leaking quite a bit. double check your injector connectors while you are fixing the banjo bolt, the pins like to push back into the connector so if one looks uneven with the others then bet that is your culprit.

 

Thanks Karak, I will check tonight. The FPD is leaking quite alot though. Well off to tear it apart again.

 

Did you use fresh crush washers with the banjo bolt? Did you even use crush washers?

 

Of course i used new crush washers. I think my problem is that the banjo fitting has a much larger inner diameter than the bolt does. Instead of using a different banjo fitting I just used the one The FPD went through. I think that was my mistake. One I will remedy when I find my other banjo fittings.

 

Like Karack said, check those pesty Injector Clips. That advice corrected my problem. No, the leak would not cause you car to not start, unless it was HUGE.

 

Update, tried different crush washers and leak is still there, and I forgot to check all of the injector plugs. Will check those when I (hopefully) fix the leak.

 

I worked on the N/A today. I still haven't fixed the leak, but I checked the injector wiring and everything is as it should be. I finally got the CAS to move, but it still won't start. I checked the coils for proper resistance and the leading coil was way off, so I tried using the coil off the T2. Still no go. The best I can get it to do is rev quickly and die. I haven't done a real comp test, but when I take the plugs out I get even pulses from each rotor.

Ok, so I am getting fuel and spark. I had this running once and it ran well so I assume the compression is good enough to run. Adjusting the timing to various positions didn't yeild much but a few nice attempts to start. I am fresh out of ideas. If anyone has anything else they think I should check, feel free to share.

 

now it sounds like you have a rather large vacuum leak for it to start then die, the leak bypasses the AFM and cuts the fuel pump switch off in the AFM so the car will stall until you can find and repair the leak.

you can jumper the fuel pump test connector to help aid in finding the source of the leak, sometimes the engine will continue to run without stalling with it jumpered but it will idle rather shitty.

 

That is what I was thinking, but I can't find any leaks. every hose is hooked up like it was before any disassembly, and the only things I have blocked off is the ACV and sub-zero assist.