alright my 91 rx7 (turbo'd chassis, na motor) gets fuel, and gets spark... i checked the ohm readings for the tps, and they were good.. why wont the car start/run ??i pulled the sparkplugs n i noticed they were still a little wet no carbon but wet.. kinda a mix between clear and a little black? like oil or sumthing.. but shouldnt it still start up n run? i mean i had it running, it took a while to get started but i got it running... but now it dont want to anymore... it didnt run good though... revved up to 5k rpms n said **** you lol.. and took a while to get there btw.. i messed around with the vaccum lines a bit though.. the guy took out the main central nervous system of the vaccum lines and tried replacing it with all rubber hoses... so i dont know whats going on

 

checked compression yet?

 

1) check compression. (this is almost a given)
2) check your vacuum system. Sounds like it was messed with and a really bad vacuum leak might cause it to not want to start. In fact if it ran like crap that might be the first place I'd look.
3) How wet are the plugs. Does it smell like gas? Did you try deflooding it.

 

Series five are deflooded by Holding the pedal to the floor and cranking the engine.

 

i do press the gas when trying to start it but its not just shoving it to the ground... no i didnt check the compression... i really think its the vaccum lines cuz the motor the car has in it now came out of a perfectly good running rx7... and it stopped running, period when i played with the a few of the vaccum lines.. uhm... the plugs arnt drenched but its not perfectly dry either... its only the trailing plugs that are wet i think... havent worked on it in a while so its vague right now lol

 

When a series five ECU sees the full range tps is at it's full value, like when the pedal is all the way down, AND it sees a cranking signal, it cuts the delivery of fuel by the fuel injectors.

So now you have spark but no fuel, and in theory the spark will ignite what fuel is not shoved out the exhaust and the car will start, and once the ECU sees a given rpm, like maybe 500rpm or over, it will let the injectors spray once again to keep the engine running. It helps to have a healthy battery and starter when doing this.

I know most of this because I stayed at a Holiday Inn last night.

 

Fixed... Heh.. Next HAILERS is going to be a stand in for KISS..

Yup... Saw those commercials way to many times..

 

i have a battery charger lol and when i attempt to start it.. i put it on engine start at 240amps :P so its all good... its sitting in my garage... any ez ways to track or tell which or where a certain vaccum line goes? the guy who had it before me took out the nervous system of the vaccum lines (the metal ones) from under the intake mani and replace with all rubber ones

 

Buy a Haynes manual for your car and it has pages similar to the one attached.

 

Personally I don't think you can get there from here. It's going to be futile to try to use that vacuum diagram, UNLESS you buy the complete vacuum rack from someone. There will be just toooooo many TEES involved and you'd have to know what is what in that diagram.

The rack installed on the engine would simplify things.

Or since your missing most of everything and just want to start the car and think you have a vacuum leak..............just cap every nipple on the dynamic chamber at the chamber. Maybe leave the boost/pressure sensor connected and nothing else.

I think your car is flat flooded, but who knows. You can't tell from this side of the computer screen.

 

I'll sell you my old N/A VAC spider for cheap.. PM me if you want it..

 

i have it... the guy threw it in with the car.. but right now its just all rubber hoses everywhere... n i have a haynes manual to...

 

So what's the problem? Remember, some of the lines get airpump pressure, like the aux ports and I think VDI (not sure about that one, I've no S5).

 

funny thing about the air pump... me being noobish at these cars didnt make me relize this before... i was working on it earlier, and found the pump that wasnt on the car was the air pump, well then i found out that the outlet tube on the pump that was in a milk crate, the outlet port to the inlet port to i think its the vaccum system (small short hose that connects between the 2) was plugged off.. i dont know what the guy was thinking of, but i guess he tryed bypassing the system... u guyz think that could be the problem lol? and if so i got to get some mounting bolts for that pump

 

the vaccum thing that bolts onto the bottom of the intake manifold on the left side if your looking at the motor from the front of the car

 

right behind the air pump lol... sorry for the many explinations... dont know what it is lol

 

i think youre talking about the secondary air injection unit! and i had mine blocked off and it ran fine until the engine popped.....completely unrelated to the blockoff plate though!

so technically i dont think you need that!................unless you have to pass emissions

 

well then idk wtf is going on... ughhhhhh...

 

hm... i wonder what it could be then... if it was a honda i woulda had it running the same day i got the car... lol

 

anybody around the pittsburgh area wana help lol... i'll pay ya... it actually sucks to be oblivious to motor ****... now i know what its like to be a woman O.O jk jk lol

 

I work in moon. So I'm up there alot. Where are you at in Pittsburgh? I may be able to come by sometime after I get done on work. Let me know.