Alittle help with engine tear down
11-07-09, 06:25 PM
#1
Alittle help with engine tear down
87 N/A engine, unknown miles, looks to been rebuilt before, very good compression.
Just found out today i have a coolant leak between the rear iron/rotor housing at the top. Getting constant medium drips coming out onto the rear iron/trans. I guess a outer coolant seal let go. Ive done a rebuild/ sp on a different motor before so i know what im doing pretty much. So im going to be ordering the parts i need asap.
The main reason for me making this thread is to ask this:
I only need to change the rear coolant seals/orings, maybe the rear iron but have a spre. Is it ok for me to tear off the rear plate and change those seals without worring about making the other coolant seals between the front housing leak, since the tension bolts will be taken out and relieving pressure on all the seals? I really don't wanna do all this work just to have another leak pop up.
List of everything i need:?
Hylomar
1 outer/inner coolant seal
2 dowel pin o-rings
18 tension rod seals
oil pan gasket
rear main seal
stationary gear o-ring
pilot bearings(mine makes a little noise)est 15k clutch
rear trans seal
coolant
oil(my filter has 300miles on it)
trans fluid
Anything im missing? Any tips for this job?
Thanks, Nick
Just found out today i have a coolant leak between the rear iron/rotor housing at the top. Getting constant medium drips coming out onto the rear iron/trans. I guess a outer coolant seal let go. Ive done a rebuild/ sp on a different motor before so i know what im doing pretty much. So im going to be ordering the parts i need asap.
The main reason for me making this thread is to ask this:
I only need to change the rear coolant seals/orings, maybe the rear iron but have a spre. Is it ok for me to tear off the rear plate and change those seals without worring about making the other coolant seals between the front housing leak, since the tension bolts will be taken out and relieving pressure on all the seals? I really don't wanna do all this work just to have another leak pop up.
List of everything i need:?
Hylomar
1 outer/inner coolant seal
2 dowel pin o-rings
18 tension rod seals
oil pan gasket
rear main seal
stationary gear o-ring
pilot bearings(mine makes a little noise)est 15k clutch
rear trans seal
coolant
oil(my filter has 300miles on it)
trans fluid
Anything im missing? Any tips for this job?
Thanks, Nick
11-07-09, 07:43 PM
#4
Do the job right and take it all the way apart. While you have it apart there are many other things to check and measure. Imagine how upset you would be if you missed a scored oil pump that went out 500 miles after the repair. It isn't that much more work, and then you know the other seals won't leak after you replace them.
11-07-09, 08:11 PM
#5
^^^ that will cost me 3x more money that i dont have right now. Overall the motor is very strong with no hot/cold starting issues and no smoke. This needs to be done over next weekend so i can get it driving again for work. Ive taken many engines out/apart/back into car. Im sure i can get er done in 2 days easy.
EDIT: Didnt realize atkins entire external/internal gasket kit is so cheap. Im going to take apart the entire motor for inspection.
EDIT: Didnt realize atkins entire external/internal gasket kit is so cheap. Im going to take apart the entire motor for inspection.
11-07-09, 08:17 PM
#6
Good call! Im going to look at my spare rear iron and see if there is freeze plug located towards the top of the plate. But considering its coming up and out the top of the rear plate/housing i'd say its prob a coolant seal. Also it only losses coolant while running, i think once it heats up and expands then its seeping out.
11-08-09, 09:12 AM
#7
Zoom Zoom Boom
+1 for doing it all the way. You will for sure regret it, even if you do fix it.. you'll kick yourself and say you should have done it. If you end up chooseing not to you need to be super careful, you could just do that back but just loosining the bolts that clamp the motor could cause a different water seal to tear or even twist and get pinched when you clamp it back together. I've personally seen that before, but it wasnt me that did it lol
Petroleum jelly is gonna be your best friend, you cant put too much. Invest in a tub..
Petroleum jelly is gonna be your best friend, you cant put too much. Invest in a tub..
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11-08-09, 10:03 AM
#8
Engine, Not Motor
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If you insist on rebuilding only half the engine (bad idea, by the way) then you will need 4 large clamps to hold the front half of the engine in place so the seals do not get disturbed.
Ultimately though, this will cost you more money in the engine since you will have to do the work again when something in the front half of the engine fails.
Ultimately though, this will cost you more money in the engine since you will have to do the work again when something in the front half of the engine fails.
11-08-09, 12:19 PM
#9
Petroleum jelly is gonna be your best friend
11-08-09, 01:47 PM
#11
Haha thats funny Beefhole! Considering the entire engine is being torn apart i wont be rushing it. Clean for inspection and slap her back together.
MAYBE do a street port if someone on Long Island has 6 port porting templates????
Im going to to order this kit today: http://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/pr...cat=739&page=1
Atkins has never done me wrong. Along with:
rear main seal
pilot bearing(mine makes a little noise)est 15k clutch
rear trans seal
coolant
oil(my filter has 300miles on it)
trans fluid
If i had my damn tax return money i wouldnt even bother with this work. But since its cheap but time consuming im doing it anyways.
MAYBE do a street port if someone on Long Island has 6 port porting templates????
Im going to to order this kit today: http://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/pr...cat=739&page=1
Atkins has never done me wrong. Along with:
rear main seal
pilot bearing(mine makes a little noise)est 15k clutch
rear trans seal
coolant
oil(my filter has 300miles on it)
trans fluid
If i had my damn tax return money i wouldnt even bother with this work. But since its cheap but time consuming im doing it anyways.
11-08-09, 08:29 PM
#12
Update/ yay
So today is my lucky day 
I get to the bank to put money in and right before i do so i decided to look at my engine while running one last time. After a close inspection it didn't seem to look like it was seeping out between the plates but instead seeping out the bottle of the thermowax hose to block. I have spare hoses and went straight home to tear it apart.
Tear part UIM, Change hose(terrible shape),Cleaned engine ground(meaning to do that) Change gasket, Slap together hoses and ect, Bleed coolant, Warm up, Set TPS LED method.
No more leaks coming From top of engine area
She feels wayyy more responsive (TPS wasnt set correct past few weeks)
Pulls through rpms pretty crisp. But my idle is terrible.(always has been)
I CANT GET RID OF THE HESITATION WHEN YOUR FOOT IS SLIGHTLY ON THE GAS, LIKE A FUEL CUT. While driving.
Timing has been untouched since it was 100% fine before i swapped into my car.
Going to look for vac leaks tomorrow and make sure everything is set right. I also have a spare TPS....
Any pointers or tips dont be shy. - Nick
I get to the bank to put money in and right before i do so i decided to look at my engine while running one last time. After a close inspection it didn't seem to look like it was seeping out between the plates but instead seeping out the bottle of the thermowax hose to block. I have spare hoses and went straight home to tear it apart. Tear part UIM, Change hose(terrible shape),Cleaned engine ground(meaning to do that) Change gasket, Slap together hoses and ect, Bleed coolant, Warm up, Set TPS LED method.
No more leaks coming From top of engine area
She feels wayyy more responsive (TPS wasnt set correct past few weeks)
Pulls through rpms pretty crisp. But my idle is terrible.(always has been)
I CANT GET RID OF THE HESITATION WHEN YOUR FOOT IS SLIGHTLY ON THE GAS, LIKE A FUEL CUT. While driving.
Timing has been untouched since it was 100% fine before i swapped into my car.
Going to look for vac leaks tomorrow and make sure everything is set right. I also have a spare TPS....
Any pointers or tips dont be shy. - Nick
11-08-09, 09:05 PM
#14
EDIT: I thought you meant for coolant but i see that goes for vacuum. I will try and buy one this week. Atkins sells that right? Maybe pineappleracing? I will look into it in the mean time.
Good to know my core is still good for now. (knock on wood). I gave this engine a decent beating a few months ago, took it off the road, then back on the road the past month. The past month i never really gotten on it hard, MAYBE to5.5k in 2nd gear once a day. Thats why i felt i couldnt have destroyed a seal. ALWAYS great cold/hot starts with no smoke.
11-08-09, 10:50 PM
#19
yeah heres where i got myn. arghx actually sent me there
http://www.boostpro.net/prodz32tester.html
also its handy to have a radiator pressur pump then the whole system gets pressuized at around 15psi makes finding leaks easyer thats how i found my 22re head went.
cheers
chris
http://www.boostpro.net/prodz32tester.html
also its handy to have a radiator pressur pump then the whole system gets pressuized at around 15psi makes finding leaks easyer thats how i found my 22re head went.
cheers
chris
11-08-09, 11:08 PM
#20
^^^Page saved, will order during the week.
I actually found this thread to be very helpful.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...e+screw&page=8
Post #200 is interesting along with others that will be looked into. He has a S4 T2 that had high idle, mine has a low erratic (likely vac leaks) and im n/a but lots of good info. Im going to get a propane torch, boost leak pressure tester, run codes, go over all TB adjustments and yadda yadda. I work all week so maybe stuff will get done during the week night, if not next weekend is all about the 7 : )
I actually found this thread to be very helpful.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...e+screw&page=8
Post #200 is interesting along with others that will be looked into. He has a S4 T2 that had high idle, mine has a low erratic (likely vac leaks) and im n/a but lots of good info. Im going to get a propane torch, boost leak pressure tester, run codes, go over all TB adjustments and yadda yadda. I work all week so maybe stuff will get done during the week night, if not next weekend is all about the 7 : )
11-09-09, 07:19 PM
#23
UPDATE/ turned into help my idle thread.
NOTE: AVC & EGR been removed since i got this engine. I check for leaks at those block of plates along time ago with starting fluid, nothing happend.
Played with the fuel mixture resistor. It was all the way lean, turned it to mostly rich and idle bumped up and got barely smoother. Car was 100% warm.
First cold start today after i set the TPS last night. Went to 1500 for a few seconds then went to stall. Tap the gas, rpm went to roughly 2k for a tiny bit. Then went to 1500 but kept going up and down like fuel cut, 1500-1200 estimate.
My idle is on crack, shaky engine, bouncing from 650-900 est. Rarely if im driving then push in the clutch it drops down to zero(stall, pop start while moving to keep on going), sometimes catches it at 500 mark and goes back to 650-900 rpm. So in the mean time i bumped up the idle to 900 even tho it still fluxuates.
ALSO after fully warm, if i try and hold the throttle to say 1400 it will drop like a fuel cut then raise back to the rpm i tried keeping it at, then drop, then raise, ect ect.
I can see the thermowax rod extend out but is the screw still suppose to be touching the thermowax rod??? There is never a gap on mine, but thermowax LOOKS to be 100% extended while warm.
After all that i checked the TPS again and one led light is still lit. Haven't tried unplugging it. So whats the scoop here? I know i reallllllly need to check for vac leaks but unless i get a day off work it wont happen till the weekend.
Any kind of useful facts would be great. - Nick
O yeah one more thing. Sometimes i hit my dash abouve glove box and blower motor works. Was driving with heat on at this point for 10min, push in clutch as im about to slow down then BAM every single thing goes off. As im rolling i put it in neutral, try to start again and NOTHING worked. Get to the side, remove battery cable, touched it to battery terminal again and no spark like when you usually try to connect the second battery wire. Then all a sudden lights and everything came back on. Drove about 20 more miles but with heat off and hasnt happend again. This is the only time that happen.
Newer battery, new terminal connections, all grounds cleaned well.
Played with the fuel mixture resistor. It was all the way lean, turned it to mostly rich and idle bumped up and got barely smoother. Car was 100% warm.
First cold start today after i set the TPS last night. Went to 1500 for a few seconds then went to stall. Tap the gas, rpm went to roughly 2k for a tiny bit. Then went to 1500 but kept going up and down like fuel cut, 1500-1200 estimate.
My idle is on crack, shaky engine, bouncing from 650-900 est. Rarely if im driving then push in the clutch it drops down to zero(stall, pop start while moving to keep on going), sometimes catches it at 500 mark and goes back to 650-900 rpm. So in the mean time i bumped up the idle to 900 even tho it still fluxuates.
ALSO after fully warm, if i try and hold the throttle to say 1400 it will drop like a fuel cut then raise back to the rpm i tried keeping it at, then drop, then raise, ect ect.
I can see the thermowax rod extend out but is the screw still suppose to be touching the thermowax rod??? There is never a gap on mine, but thermowax LOOKS to be 100% extended while warm.
After all that i checked the TPS again and one led light is still lit. Haven't tried unplugging it. So whats the scoop here? I know i reallllllly need to check for vac leaks but unless i get a day off work it wont happen till the weekend.
Any kind of useful facts would be great. - Nick
O yeah one more thing. Sometimes i hit my dash abouve glove box and blower motor works. Was driving with heat on at this point for 10min, push in clutch as im about to slow down then BAM every single thing goes off. As im rolling i put it in neutral, try to start again and NOTHING worked. Get to the side, remove battery cable, touched it to battery terminal again and no spark like when you usually try to connect the second battery wire. Then all a sudden lights and everything came back on. Drove about 20 more miles but with heat off and hasnt happend again. This is the only time that happen.
Newer battery, new terminal connections, all grounds cleaned well.
11-09-09, 07:38 PM
#24
Is your BAC functioning?
Have you rigged up a code tester?
Without knowing about vacuum leaks, it's kind of pointless trying to figure other things out. The first step in eliminating issues is checking vacuum.
You may just have to wait till the weekend...
Have you rigged up a code tester?
Without knowing about vacuum leaks, it's kind of pointless trying to figure other things out. The first step in eliminating issues is checking vacuum.
You may just have to wait till the weekend...
11-09-09, 07:43 PM
#25
The BAC doesnt work above 800rpm was it? I know mines doing its job since when the rpms drop to 500/ trying to stall, bac opens then kicks my idle back to 650-900. Also cleaned it recently and moves smooth. Ive had these problems for awhile, i tried a spare BAC along time ago and nothing changed. Im an idiot and could have ran codes before, going to do it now.