2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Alittle help with engine tear down

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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 08:47 PM
  #26  
FelixIsGod29X's Avatar
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Alright couldn't edit in time.

NO CODES, both leds lit for 3 seconds then went out. Dont think TPS has a bad narrow range. Im gonna assume its not sensor related for now.


Gotta be leaks leaks leaks, When i adjusted the fuel mixture resisted to rich it was tying to get smooth(like a leak i assume). Be back later with info, or maybe someone can tell me about my thermowax question i have above?
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 06:42 PM
  #27  
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Found two leaks and fixed them, have my idle at 900 and still rough sluggish bounce 800-1000.

Tried unplugging the tps, still has a bouncing idle.

I can hold the gas at any rpm and it still will bounce down a few hundred rpm then back to whatever rpm im at.

Doesn't buck at low rpm like a tps out of wack.

When the car isnt fully warm like 130 degrees F or less, when i let of the gas it doesn't fully deceleration, like your foot is on the gas a tiny bit while sputtering along, once warm it does your normal deceleration.

Now im at a brickwall at 3800! Sometimes makes it through no problem, sometimes hesitates, sometimes wall at 3800. I have cleaned all my grounds recently and thorough, ALL grounds. Injector clips on nice and tight. TPS shows one led lit, confirmed both led lights work too.
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 07:06 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by FelixIsGod29X
When the car isnt fully warm like 130 degrees F or less, when i let of the gas it doesn't fully deceleration, like your foot is on the gas a tiny bit while sputtering along, once warm it does your normal deceleration.
Sounds like the BAC is sticking, at least a little when cold. The BAC takes over in deceleration at a certain position as to not let the car stall. If improperly set up, it will kick in too early and cause a slow deceleration; I am currently playing with this setting on my haltech. In your case though you don't control this setting (stock), so it's probably just hanging up a bit. Try cleaning it out.
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Old Nov 12, 2009 | 07:22 PM
  #29  
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Ive cleaned my bac recently and made sure it was moving freely, worth checking into again i guess.
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 11:53 AM
  #30  
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BAC cleaned and inspected again, changed nothing. Even swapped a clean spare with no change.
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 07:56 PM
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Did you ever find any vacuum leaks?

Now it's time for that multimeter
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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 04:59 PM
  #32  
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Update

Originally Posted by beefhole
Did you ever find any vacuum leaks?

Now it's time for that multimeter
Found a 3rd vacuum leak. I have my idle CLOSE to rock solid at 900rpm. when fully warm.

I will turn the idle down later on, maybe tonight.

Still bouncing idle while warming up, unplugged tps nothing, moving thermowax linkage still bouncing.

I will test the tps at my job with a multimeter tomorrow, may even find my spare and swap tonight.
Pulled through the rpms no problem today.

Also i havent driven my 7 the past 2 days till today. Put key in, turn to ON, and nothing lights up, no beep, and no start. Pulled battery cable, put back on, everything works again. Newer clean battery, new terminal connections. Why is this happening? Short i assume???? Where are the main spots to check out??
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