After emissions delete, no idle. Rx7 fc turbo 2 s4
So new update. I can get it to start running for approx. 6 seconds. But then even while holding the throttle down it will die down and die.... Going to check for leaky injectors but idk
better make sure about this. ohm those injectors. you don't need to pull the uim off either. you can do it at the pcm connector where the pins are much easier to access. use a pcm pin out. if you're running low impedance without a box, you WILL fry drivers
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,837
Likes: 3,234
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
i think my next move would be to unplug the circuit opening relay, fuel pump or what ever is easiest to disable the fuel pump.
then crank it, if it is flooded, it will start, run for ~10 seconds and die. if it isn't flooded it'll just crank.
i like to use the circuit opening relay, as its within reach of the driver, and you can start it, and then plug it back in from the driver seat.
then crank it, if it is flooded, it will start, run for ~10 seconds and die. if it isn't flooded it'll just crank.
i like to use the circuit opening relay, as its within reach of the driver, and you can start it, and then plug it back in from the driver seat.
So I unplugged the fuel pump and it's just cranking... Does that mean it's not flooded? I just went through the entire bay and checked every single vaccum like on the car. And I got rid of a few leaks but now I have absolutely no running car. It just cranks... And cranks.... And makes me want to hit it with a sledge hammer
Either you are not getting sufficient spark or fuel or both and the compression might be lackluster. You could try the starter fluid trick or then again you couldn't but it depends if you want some insight into what's contributing to your no start problem and perhaps you don't want to rule out certain things.
Either you are not getting sufficient spark or fuel or both and the compression might be lackluster. You could try the starter fluid trick or then again you couldn't but it depends if you want some insight into what's contributing to your no start problem and perhaps you don't want to rule out certain things.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,837
Likes: 3,234
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
So I unplugged the fuel pump and it's just cranking... Does that mean it's not flooded? I just went through the entire bay and checked every single vaccum like on the car. And I got rid of a few leaks but now I have absolutely no running car. It just cranks... And cranks.... And makes me want to hit it with a sledge hammer
do you have spark? you can put a timing light on it and crank it, we don't care if the timing is correct, we just wanna see the light flashing. no flash = no spark = no run.
Okay so I feel like my spark plugs are fouled. So if I get new ones. What would be a good idea when I'm trying to start it. Like since it's probably flooded is there a way that I should try to start it so that I don't foul my new spark plugs?
I would get an inline spark tester or anything related instead. Also since it just cranks, it definitely sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Might need to get one of those fuel pressure testers to see how many psi you got in the fuel system.
There's nothing special to do outside of a normal deflood. I used an auto shipper once upon a time (idiot decision) and they flooded it. I had to pull the plugs, which were indeed fouled, and then succeeded in deflooding it. Those new plugs didn't last very long. Ended up fouling again within 3k miles, iirc. I also have a pig rich tune though, so ymmv. However, while you're elbow deep changing out plugs, check your compression. Like the others before have said, need to identify if it's fuel, spark, or compression related. Otherwise you'll just be chasing snipes in your engine bay.
There's nothing special to do outside of a normal deflood. I used an auto shipper once upon a time (idiot decision) and they flooded it. I had to pull the plugs, which were indeed fouled, and then succeeded in deflooding it. Those new plugs didn't last very long. Ended up fouling again within 3k miles, iirc. I also have a pig rich tune though, so ymmv. However, while you're elbow deep changing out plugs, check your compression. Like the others before have said, need to identify if it's fuel, spark, or compression related. Otherwise you'll just be chasing snipes in your engine bay.
I have a solid 80-85 pounds in the back and 85-90 pounds in the front. So compression is available.






