JFR

hello, this friday(1st) i will be getting this 1988 FC N/A(122,000 miles)...

http://img237.echo.cx/my.php?image=mazdarx70011mw.jpg

http://img237.echo.cx/my.php?image=mazdarx70027nz.jpg

http://img237.echo.cx/my.php?image=mazdarx70035ge.jpg

http://img237.echo.cx/my.php?image=mazdarx70048cz.jpg

http://img237.echo.cx/my.php?image=mazdarx70057uq.jpg

it definately needs some work to it like the front bumper, dents, interior etc.

i was wondering what you think i should do as far as performance upgrades.


i want to get a turbo but supposedly its not a good idea, i've heard.

please tell me what you think about that and what else would be a good idea.

89gtufc3s

have money for a rebuild....

kris1212

change fluids, make sure everything works right, buy a haynes, etc...then comes the good stuff

JFR

how much is a rebuild? and what is a haynes?

Choowamblia

a haynes ( or chiltons is good too ) is a manual with pretty much everything you need to know about your car. Troubleshooting, how to. All the good stuff. I actually downloaded the entire 600+ page Mazda Service Manual for my FD and printed it out at kinkos. Now that thing is complete.

As far as a rebuild ... i think you can actually buy a turbo engine for like 1200 total. Maybe 800 - 900 for the long block.

Ill get more details from aaron.

~Sebastian

gingenhagen

there's an archived thread on rebuilds. It'll have price breakdowns. IIRC, it's like 600 (well, if you do it yourself).

Choowamblia

Def do it yourself. The more times I have "dealings" with mechanics and especially the damned dealership, the more I despise them.

DocMazda

yes, ive heard (maybe sonicrat if i am not incorrect) and a few others on the forum have done the turbo "bolt-on" to an N/A block. I hear there is a massive amount of custom fabrication to do. However, if you want to go turbo, i suggest you do a compression test on the engine first, (very easy...get a compression gauge that with a spark-plug fitting, get a battery, put some oil in there...crank it while gas pedal is DEPRESSED and take out the retaining pin for the compression tester. general idea is if you get 3 good clicks on the tester, front/rear rotor. 2 good clicks and a bad click, one apex is getting worn, 1 good click-2 bad clicks, you likely have a shot apex.) you must do that to both rotor housings. you could have one good rotor and one bad rotor. if you have one bad rotor and want to go turbo, i say sell that engine, then just purchase a turbo engine with the turbo drivetrain and you should be set. but, as posted above, change all the fluids, fill them, check for any electrical bugs you may have that you can fix. just make sure everything works. you can get the haynes, or download the factory service manual in the "faq" section of this forum. make sure everything works first, then go performance!

Have fun, and welcome to the club!
Ry.

gingenhagen

turbo kits for N/As at 1300cc.com

slpin

iTrader: (9)

nice................... DONT tell him to remove the fuse... NICE.....................................

Choowamblia

In addition to the loads of custom fabbing needed, I also heard that the NA's have a higher chance of blowing due to inabilities in holding the pressure of the turbo. Hence the engine swap comment prior. I must say though, I'm no mechanical genuis ... just the word of a friend. Any questions on that topic should be routed toward Aaron ( Flying Taco ).

~Sebastian

slpin

iTrader: (9)

^^^ wrong

they are the same thing, except different intake ports, difussers, and the oil line at the front ironl, front cover

eshaft are the same ****, apex seals are the same, same rotor except for compression

there is NO reason why the NA have an inability to hold pressure from turbo

you heard wrong. your friend is wrong.

speed_monkey

lol yeah the fuse...

Before you do a compression test, remove the tom two fuses (30, 40) That kills ignition and fuel. Then pull out the leading plugs. Put the tester in a hole, go press the gass pedal to the floor and crank it.

JFR

thanks everyone, i'll think about that engine swap or rebuild. i do plan on doing some major fabrication to it anyway, i mean look at it lol.

Choowamblia

not to be a dick or anything, Mary-Kate, but I intentionally inclluded the disclaimer as, "this is just what i had heard." don't get your ******* panties in a twist. And just as a side note, the two motors do actually have differnet compression ratios. This much I do know.

~Sebastian

jhammons01

Damn Slpin, you've become crabby in my absence.

JerryLH3

iTrader: (11)

I would work on restoring it first. Make sure everything mechanical is working properly. Then restore it. Then focus on suspension. It's a four lug model, a popular upgrade is to change to the five lug setup, but that's up to you. Throw in some nice adjustable shocks and some springs (or do a coilover setup) and it will handle great. N/As can be awesome cars, but they will never be crazy fast. They can however be decently quick reliable cars that handle quite superbly. This is why I always recommend suspension upgrades first.

JFR

ill keep that in mind JerryLH3, thanks

Houstonderk

iTrader: (3)

Is that really an 88? I thought only the like 86's had them four lug phone dials.

slpin

iTrader: (9)

yeah, when you are not here to let me prove you wrong - look at the level i have sunk to

Choowamblia

Hey JFR,

I found the hard facts on compression differences on the NA's and Turbos. Here's the break down.

the 76-82 12A had a compression ratio of 9.4
83-85 12A 9.4
84-85 13B 9.4
86-88 13B 9.4
87-88 13B T 8.5
89-91 13B 9.7
89-91 13B T 9.0
93-95 13B T 9.0

just for kicks
20B 9.4
Renesis 10.1


Anyways, those are just the differences in compression ratios. There are also differences in weight, in case youre thinking about balancing issues on your rotors, and also differences in depth.

If you have anymore questions, feel free to ask.

~Sebastian

I Hate Ricers

Slpin did state that there was a difference in compression between turbo and N/A, but cool list none the less!

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Keep it friendly, children.

slpin, you're treading on very thin ice.