WingsofWar

I am aware that the current ABS system sucks, most people option out and get a delete kit from mazdatrix. Some are just fine without ABS like myself. Yet for those who still wish to obtain a ABS function regardless of the type of ABS aside from the stock FC ABS unit. Are there any alternatives? or even, is there a retrofit for the stock FC abs system? Im doing some research on some systems that could potentially retrofit into the FC. What are your thoughts?

- Joshua

Black91n/a

You MIGHT be able to adapt a system from a newer car, but depending on the required wheel speed signals (ie is the FC's resolution high enough), the tuning of the system, the stock bias valve, the stock brake bias and such from the donor, it could well end up being a bunch worse.

tomoaac

Dont buy the MAZDATRIX ABS delete kit. It is just a block that replaces the ABS hydraulic modulator. And leaves the engine but looking a mess of brake pipes.

I bought one fitted it, looked at it, then thought what a pile of ****, cowboy band-aid style kit in my opinion. So took it out, followed by all the brake pipes, then made up my own brake pipes to fit how I want them to fit. I kept the original master cylinder, but have bought a non-ABS master cylinder to replace it.

ABS is great for your average driver. But if you get used to driving your car at the limit of grip then ABS shouldn't be need, you the human should be perfectly able to control the car. Plus ABS can be restrictive.

I would get rid of the ABS, but do it properly with non-ABS master cylinder and new brake pipes, It will really tidy up the engine bay too.

cezonetheillest

im with tomoaac. the kit does work if your in a pinch (as i was when i bought it) but if you can source a na master cylinder and the front brake lines, then you can cut the rear line keep the fitting slide the fitting over and flare the line and bend to fit. the mazda trix kit just kind of clutters up the engine bay.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Hey guys- He wants to ADD ABS, not delete it.


Reading Skills.

KompressorLOgic

iTrader: (6)

yeah the abs kit is a joke haha just a bunch of random parts it looks like to me im pretty sure they used a clutch hose for one of the pieces haha....

yeah my t2 had a leaking pump and the previous owner threw the pump oiut and put that kit on there.

id kind of like to reattach a pump and see just how that 80's abs really was lol....

WingsofWar

Tomoacc, I concur with your statement also. The Mazdatrix unit does make a mess of the engine bay. But i think your missing the point of the thread.

Black91n/a - So in search for a possible donor car, would it make sense to find a car that has roughly around the same specifications as the FC? What exactly is the brake bias on the FC with 4 pot calipers up front?

Black91n/a

Yea, look for something similiar to the FC. The FD would be the obvious first place to look, since we've got basically the same brakes other than a slight rotor size difference, its set up for equal sized tires, similiar weight and similiar proportions such as wheelbase and CG. Maybe the 99+'s got better ABS?

As for finding the bias, what you really need to do is compare torque applied to the wheels at various pedal forces, and the info in the FSM should be sufficient to figure that all out.

WingsofWar

BTW are there any current write-ups to delete or convert an ABS equipped FC to non-ABS. Without using the Mazdatrix unit.

Correct me if im wrong, the non-abs MC uses a 3 plug outlet 1 rear 2 front split
and the ABS MC uses a 2 plug outlet 1 front 1 rear.

Black91n/a

You could always just re-plumb the system to get rid of all the ABS stuff, shouldn't be hard. It is possible to make custom brake lines at home with a proper double flare tool, tubing bender and fittings, which should be available at a local auto parts store, or you might be able to get some pre-made straight lines that you can just bend to shape. You won't even need to re-plumb the whole car either, just connect the MC to the various existing lines and that should be good. For the fronts you could just plumb in a tee in there to get the two lines you'll need and you may need to use the bias valve from a non-ABS car if it's different.

I'm not 100% sure, but I believe the MC on the non-ABS cars are smaller diameter (longer, softer pedal travel) with a weaker booster, so changing that out would change the braking feel. Well I know that's the case with the TII and NA MC's and boosters anyway.

turboeric

I don't know about the FC, but I know that some ABS cars don't have good inherent brake balance, but rely on the ABS to provide appropriate brake balance. You may need to plumb in a rear bias adjuster to maintain balance.

tomoaac

Mate like I said, I'm still running the ABS master cyclinder and the bias valve. Just Had front line T'ed then run to each side, and the rear goes stright to bulk head. Kept all the fittings that are used with the ABS system, and went with copper brake lines.

The copper comes in a coil, used planks of wood to roll the pipe stright. and then cylindrical objects to make bends, ie for different radii bends. Had a flare tool and job done.

Even using standard MC and bias valve brakes are setup fine, had them tested on a rolling road as part of the UK MOT.

Still i'm going to use a non - ABS MC as mine needs rebuilding and the non-ABS MC was going cheap, what I need to know now is does the non-ABS MC use a bias valve? or should I just go stright from MC to brake calipers?