https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread.../#post11261720

here is my build thread well rebuild i want say who built it untill i can call them and say wtf

its all pretty self explanitory but if you need anymore pics please just ask

karrack already sold me most of what i need but that was before i pulled her apart

now maybe new irons at least one some porting and also a few wtf is this how could any human being make this kind of mistake !!!!

 

As for the plate, that one is toast, it looks like the o ring groove broke and the seal has been pushed out. I dont think thats the fault of the builder, **** like that happens. Material gets weak with heat cycles and eventually cracks. Furthermore I dont think that the inner coolant seal is an OEM mazda piece. They are usually white/red/white looking from top. Well atleast all which I saw to date.

The rotor housing looks toast too, and that porting is poorly done. I am not a specialist but proper porting technique does look different imho.

Hope you can save that engine.

Steven

 

god where are all the trolls and expiences guys i really need your guys advice

maybe if i spell everything wrong and use a smaller font somebody will look at my threads

 

You don't need an expert to tell you to throw away those housings and plate

 

looks pretty crappy i wouldnt use that rotor or housing in an engine for my self, the real question is what did u pay for this kind of rebuild?

 

i didnt pay for it but the work was incredibly shotty i think everything done was over 2k

 

took a few days off but anyways...

the iron issue could have easily been overlooked by any shop, but the rest? no, poor workmanship.

the screw looks like the oil pump set screw, check the oil pump case for an empty set screw hole. without it the oil pump guts can spin freely in the case resulting in low or no oil pressure and eventual engine failure.

the iron can be salvaged by welding the wall back up and reinforcing it. let me know if you either need an iron port matched or want that one repaired. port matching requires 2 irons shipped, repairs only 1. i would not advise assembling the engine with the break, even though the seal savers are aimed at preventing that sort of failure, it may not be a permanent fix for every failure but can buy several years of worry free run time.

the rotor can be reused BUT i would clean up any burrs in the cut with a dremel and a small sanding wheel.

if the damage to the rotor housings is localized around the exhaust ports then you should be fine, but most shops would pitch those housings or at least have them resurfaced, which they were not.

and yes, those exhaust ports are bullshit, i do not understand why shops still to this day cannot perform a simple basic exhaust port. BEVEL THE ******* TRAILING EDGE YOU DUMBFUCKS! can be fixed in less than 5 minutes.

the other chunk of metal in the coolant passage appears to be a broken off piece of a thermowax cam from a throttle body. do not ask me how it got into there... just the same as how the set screw got to the rear stat gear... did they shake a bucket of scrap metal over the engine while assembling it?

 

im thinking so pm me a price for new matched housing at least one rotor and the int plate please

 

series 4 or 5?

 

Its a 87 so s4 but who knows with what the builder did how could i be possitive?

 

I know that turbo is diff then na mine is turbo if that helps the invoice said builder gave simply says new housing's!

 

irons it doesn't matter, difference between s4 and s5 is minimal and won't make a difference. rotors, s4 have a cast rough compression pocket and s5 have a machined pocket. rotor housings, series 4 have no threaded hole above the trailing plug, series 5 has the threaded hole for a knock sensor on both housings. turbo housings have a port above the exhaust going all the way to the coolant passage, non turbo the hole is cast and plugged off.

there's no way those housings were new unless the apex seals were blown out on that particular rotor. that does not look like damage from foreign debris, if you take an old 3 piece apex seal tip i bet it matches up perfectly with the ding in the rotor face sideways. IMO, im thinking the builder should be fixing this for free if they are pulling some shady **** like that. contact the person you bought the car from and ask him if this was the same engine that they built, the builder should be able to determine if it is their engine or not. if it is then they should be kissing someone's ***, swapping a set of $1200 housings for some crap like those, well there's a term for that, fraud.

 

Hmm it is the same engine i still wont say at the moment who built it but for sure things where not done correctly!

 

I had no broken apex i had one that chipped upon it falling off the rotor other then that they all were actually in great shape

 

then i don't know, i would still contact the builder anyways so that they are aware. i bet if they realize that people are noticing these things they might wind up actually doing the right thing and stop turning into the shithole shops that most turn into looking for that almighty dollar versus providing a decent service.

if it is true, i would like to know so that i can stop referring people in their area to that particular shop. and if they are going to advertise on craigslist in my area, they're already stepping on my toes, it is 4 hours outside their area and vegas is already a very tough market.

 

i love you man lol tottaly hetro too