reidnoah

iTrader: (1)

Hello yall. I've been reading in the forums about this issue which I think I may have (3500 hesitation). two days ago I took my 7 to Aldi and shifted into 2nd where the vehicle started burping, backfiring, and generally not running well. I was hella scared and pulled into a Wendy. as I started my way home it was happening around 2k where I had to shift through gears until I was in 4th and it settled. I noticed that if I lightly applied the accelerator I was able to run as long as I was under 2k. got home looked into the forums and saw maybe a gross leak. found a loose intercooler coupling and a vacuum line was off the bov. the car was off at this point. was hungry so took it for a test drive to see if it was sorted. it seemed fine until it wasn't maybe 20 min later which was like 5miles of driving. sat at a BK bs with a dude who wanted to hear it in neutral I revved but it burped and backfired. saw an FD post that the reason was a low battery so I put it on a charge. yesterday I went out to Mc D and noticed it revved fine in neutral to redline but I couldn't go into boost when driving. I could creep my way into 3500 but not when I press the accelerator maybe halfway. I hope this is enough to help me diagnose the problem. I'm also worried it may be the "limp Mode?" I saw a post on a walkthrough for reading codes but it was a dead link. also, I don't have an idiot light installed but I could source one I'm sure. I know this has returned again from the dead like herpes but this is, unfortunately, my daily. besides the front mount intercooler, gauges, and Koyo rad the engine bay is stock.

Plan
Aaron Cakes Grounding. but which are most important?
Swap Fuel Filter
and running Redline fuel injector cleaner per FC3S.org fix

Any other ideas or advice would be great. and if there's a sticky somewhere please point me in the right direction. I don't know if there are huge differences between the S4, S5, and FD fixes.

Sorry and thank you for helping

mr_vaughn

iTrader: (1)

Can we get more details on you build and modifications?

reidnoah

iTrader: (1)

yes sir,

front mount intercooler.
a Walbro 255 installed 2011 when I got back from Korea.
koyo rad.
hks shroom pod
boost, oil pressure, and oil temp gauges reinstalled after a dash change.

besides that nothing special. stock injectors stock everything else. suspension stuff but that's unrelated.

the only note I have is that the car sat for 2 years and I couldn't get it to run so I sent it off to elite rotary. they did the revival stuff to the 7.the car ran fine driving the 50 miles home. I'm a college student so in the last 3 months that I got the car back, I've only put 1500k miles on it. Oh, I had an issue with loose alternator belts that weren't charging my battery 10 of the last 50 miles were done on what I assume was battery since the battery was dead when I pulled into the driveway.

mr_vaughn

iTrader: (1)

I had vac leaks that caused this.
Mine was a tear in the greddy BOV diaphragm on the BOV I had installed.
Triple check for vac leaks.
I had broken IC couplers too from a long standing FC with FMIC too which required replicating.
You could try pressurize the intake system and see if there are leaks. That is on my list of tests to do.

reidnoah

iTrader: (1)

sprayed some contact cleaner around fittings and stuff and found that the rex bogged down when I sprayed the elbow and the throttle body. gonna drive to Autozone and seal with some gasket maker

reidnoah

iTrader: (1)

was finally able to put my car back together. what ive done is replace the vacuum lines behind the alternator and behind the upper intake mani. found my bac had a broken wire so i had to get a new connector and splice it in. the car started up fine and i was happy. at startup i was able to rev to 6k before it stuttered then i was able to hit 9k. i took it out and i thought it was fine but then the hesitation returned. i can only get to 3k before i lose power and it starts bucking agian. only new issue is that it seems to hang a little at 2k when i let off throttle. it goes trrr before it drops down again. F i was really hoping id be done.

savanna.seven

iTrader: (5)

Have you checked your TPS at all?

Another thing to check is the OMP. On S5 if the OMP fails it goes into a "limp" mode of sorts which if I remember correctly wont allow the car to rev past a certain RPM.
Look over the OMP wiring to make sure nothing has chaffed as well.

reidnoah

iTrader: (1)

i checked the codes and i get 3 long 3 long 3 short. then it loops over. ill head back outside and check the tps and oil metering pump once my phone is charged. i think those codes are for the air pump? it was removed by previous owner

savanna.seven

iTrader: (5)

Doing a quick search shows that 33 is on the "Output Side" of the ECU to trigger the Port Air Solenoid. It isn't a "Input" parameter the ECU is looking at to dictate fuel and igniton changes. This shouldnt cause any drivability issues, mainly emissions.

reidnoah

iTrader: (1)

ive gone as far as swapping out my fuel injectors for oem reman. from aus injectors sold by autozone. only to find out now that theyre 195500-2010 the 460 cc. when i checked part numbers i saw online that the 2010 would fit. I should have checked this site to see that they were not right size. faded purple looks like faded red. err so annoying. anyway i set the tps to 1.01v resistance checked 1.285k closed on narrow and 5.9 open. it stopped increasing 3/4 of the way i turned the throttle by hand. the narrow is slightly over.1.2k is max. on the other setting i think Full it was called, measured 1.095(0.9 max) closed and 4.96 open. i tested at 90 centigrade so 194 f (bought my defi gauges while station in korea). the hesitation still persists. now im not sure if its the injectors or something else.

reidnoah

iTrader: (1)

at this point what ive done is
replaced fuel filter and sock.
added a ground from alt to bat.
cleaned main ground and ground by driver tower.
leak checked and corrected leaks with carb cleaner.
swapped out old vacuum lines
any other ideas besides the injector problem?

mattfromthepier

How are your spark plugs? Plugs can cause quite a ruckus when they start going bad, definitely resulting in hesitation and bogging.

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

Make a boost leak tester. Basically a PVC pipe end cap with a valve stem and a pressure gauge on it.

reidnoah

iTrader: (1)

i didnt want to tread jack so i came back here. university started so the 7 was basically abandoned. ill look for parts to build one tommorrow at the lowes . i watched a vid on yt, and im suppose to apply pressure. how can i do that?

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

Air compressor, and you need to have the engine clocked so the rotors are sealing the intake side, and hold the engine in place because it will turn under pressure. 15psi should be plenty of air pressure to check for leaks on a stock system.

Here's mine. You can add a pressure gauge and/or a hand valve with hose fitting if you want.

reidnoah

iTrader: (1)

cool. so from the intercooler pipe at the turbo pressurized towards the intercooler correct? holding my clutch fan should be enough right? other wise its a bad time. whelp not like i really have anything else going on.

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

I usually put it right on the turbo inlet. Fan pulley should work.