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Old 11-29-07, 06:23 PM
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searched, not getting fuel

posted on this last week but i'm still having some trouble. tried searching but it seemed that none of the posts were close to my predicament. so here it goes again.

I was driving home from thanksgiving dinner last week and stopped to grab a coffee before driving my girl home. as i'm in the drivethru my car (88 T2) starts sputtering and dies. pretty much sounded like it ran out of gas. i was able to get it started again a couple times but only for about 4-5 seconds each time, and now it just wont start. i disconnected the fuel line from the engine that comes off of the fuel filter and its getting past there so i'm assuming the pump and filter are fine. i'm guessing its got something to do with the injectors or injector connectors, because i've been told the oem fpr's pretty much never go bad. so if anyone has had this experience or could shine some light on my dark situation it would be greatly appreciated. maybe even just some info on how to check the connectors or if i should just replace them since the car is near 20 years old.

thanks in advance
Andy
Old 11-29-07, 06:39 PM
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^Hold On

 
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WHY do you seem so posative that it's a fuel problem. Have you checked anything else?

Could be something simple like battery connection. You shouldn't assume it's fuel only. Have you checked all fuses and connections. Maybe a vac leak finally came through or something like that.
Old 11-29-07, 06:48 PM
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if it was a vac leak wouldnt it still start up then die like it had at first if it had finally busted through like that? checked the vac lines and all of them seem to be solid. checked the plugs today and they're a little corroded but not terrible, i'll probly just replace them anyway since they're out. battery connections are fine and i just put a new battery in this summer, along with starter and air filter. i had noticed a little hesitation the day before under very moderate to zero throttle at coast, but after hitting the gas it powered up fine. and it wouldnt always do it, only occasionally. the times it started back up after dying the rev wasnt constant, just pulsing. so i guess that could be vac or fuel. any info on how to check and make sure which it is since fuel is getting at least to the fuel rails?

edit: and fuses all checked out as well
Old 11-29-07, 07:16 PM
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any further help on what to check and how to check it would be great. it really seems to be fuel related but i fully reserve the right to be wrong. i've got most the day off tomorrow so i'll have more time to tear into it since i didnt have much daylight time today. thanks again in advance
Old 11-29-07, 07:23 PM
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i suggest try running the ecu for codes.you neve know since the car hasn't really ran long enough for the engine light to stay on.check the connection for the afm as well.if that's getting a weak signal it would cause the car to die right away after starting.
Old 11-29-07, 07:32 PM
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sorry if this is a dumb question but since i've never done it, how do you check the ecu codes? is there a certain tool or scanner i'll need?

edit: and as far as it being the afm, it just plain isnt starting anymore, it only fired up a few times after the initial stall. thats why i figured it was fuel related since it acted entirely like it just ran out of gas. and i had just put $30 in so running out of gas isnt a possibility.

Last edited by FC3sBoosted; 11-29-07 at 07:53 PM.
Old 11-29-07, 07:55 PM
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Automatic = Power drain

 
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You must have the engine running to get codes on an S4. There are several writeups on them in the FAQ, I don't know that you will be able to do this in your current predicament.

My hunch is a very bad vacuum leak, most RX7s start and then quit when they are getting unmetered air.

Check connections on AFM and maybe try another if you have one, check all vacuum hoses, etc.
Old 11-29-07, 08:02 PM
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will an n/a afm work on my t2? thats all i have spare lyin around. if not i'll have to do some searching locally cause mazda charges an arm and a leg
Old 11-29-07, 09:39 PM
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would it take something pretty drastic for an injector or the rail to get plugged up? i've checked all the vac lines and they're all on solid, and i'm guessing it would take something major being disconnected or blown off to keep the engine from starting altogether? cmon guys i know theres knowledge out there that i dont have, lots of it. even a piece of it would help tremendously at this point. thanks again
Old 11-29-07, 10:18 PM
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Automatic = Power drain

 
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Did you try starting fluid or something like that?

If you have spark, it should start on starting fluid.

Also: do you smell gas as you are cranking it?
Old 11-30-07, 04:47 AM
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havent tried the starting fluid test yet, rechecked all the vac around the uim and everything seems sound and the connector on the maf is good.

and i can smell a little gas while cranking, not much, and only when i pump the gas a lot. i'll put new plugs in tomorrow and see where that gets me.

as far as the starter fluid test do i just spray it right into the maf?
Old 11-30-07, 02:17 PM
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FYI........for STARTING, and just for STARTING, the AFM is not used. There is a START fuel map in the ECU that delivers fuel during START.

A n/a AFM will work on a turbo car, but it's not advised to use it for much more than idle, low load conditions. Then again, it is not used for START. Start being the initial start of the engine, but once 500rpm has been achieved, THEN the AFM IS used for fuel.

EDIT: I just actually read some of your post. Yep. I'd give the na AFM a try at least. Can't hurt.

Another thing, remove the RETURN hose at the engine and run the pump using the fuel check connector near the right front strut tower, and see if fuel flow out the RETURN line on the engine, or not. If it does, you've got fuel at the rails

Last edited by HAILERS; 11-30-07 at 02:28 PM.
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