Hey y’all! My car has been sitting for a while. I drained the gas, did an oil change, and replaced the spark plugs. I added roughly 4 gallons of gas (maybe not enough). Starter and alternator are a few years old.
Initially I plugged in the battery wrong thinking the black/yellow cable was the positive and the all black was the negative. Wrong! My main fuse was blown. Replaced the fuse. It still won’t start. The video below is me performing the deflooding procedure and also some pictures of how the spark plugs looked after a couple of attempts (some of the metal from boot got stuck to spark plug). Also, the only thing reading on my dash is the battery voltage. On the clock display, most of the lights are on (gas, overheating system light, coolant light, etc.) the car has coolant and brake fluid (not low).

what should I check out next?


https://youtu.be/fzGBJs1n9PA

 

That last picture of your leading plug; that piece broke from the wire. YOu need to replace your spark wires.

Does the engine turn over? Check all remaining fuses.

 

Thread moved to the appropriate section. As mentioned above, start by replacing your spark plug wires. NGK makes a nice set. Have you checked the remaining large fuses and the fuse block under the dash to ensure more fuses were not blown?

 

I just went through this exact same thing recently, swapped cables. I checked at the ECU, fuses, sensors, spark and air. I foolishly thought I had fuel pressure without checking. Wouldn't you know, it was the fuel pump. Keep it simple in the beginning diagnosis. Air, Fuel and Spark. Had I done this, I would have saved myself a lot time and aggravation.

My plugs were way worse than those. Mine fired right up after sitting for four years, with the pump replacement.

Like the poster above stated, get the OEM color coded wires, I was not disappointed. When pulling on the boots, feel for the metal part in the boot, then feel for the crimped section behind that, squeeze lightly from there and pull as lightly as possible to remove the boot from the plug.

Also, searching "crank no start" or there is plenty of info here if help dries up.
Edit: I was assuming it cranks.

As a side note, I signed up to this site before 2006 and didn't log in for a while. I think my account was purged. It is good to be back with a first post.

 

order new wires already. Check out the video - that’s all it does. I’ve checked in fuses located inside the car with a multimeter. Haven’t used the multimeter for the ones under the hood but they look good.

 

order the NGK. Should be here Monday 🦾. I have checked the ones inside with a multimeter. The ones under the hood - I’ve just inspected them and look good. Might check the ones under the hood again using a more reassuring method.

 

welcome back!
and those plugs are brand new. That’s how they look after a new attempts at starting the car. I’ve order a new leading plug in case the metal cramp won’t come off [picture above]. New wires and the 1 spark plug are coming in Monday, so I’m excited for that. I guess in the meantime I’ll research fuel pump diagnostic.

 

hey when you were having this issue, did your dash read okay? I’m not getting any readings at all.


new spark wires are here - still won’t start.

 

Is the engine cranking over normally? If so, are the spark plugs wet with gas when you remove them?

 

After testing at the ECU there was at least one light that was dead in the center console. All other lights seemed to me, to be good. You had lights before, right? Now, nothing?

As the gentleman above stated, we are a bit unsure where exactly you are with trouble shooting. Here is a list:

1. Battery- I missed your tube link. I finally listened, it sounds really dead at the end. I went as low as 75% charged and was good on a new battery.

2. Spark - I took out all four plugs and ran the wires with plugs under the windshield wiper with the insulator boot under the wiper, pushing the plug away from the windshield. Very quickly turn over the engine with removed fuse to stop the fuel pump. (I can explain the removed fuse if needed) I got spark on all four this way. Reinstalling is easy:

The coils are labeled. The two plugs with the blue lines go to together on the top, I think. Somebody correct me if I I am wrong.

Top 2 (Trailing) # 1(closer to the headlights) # 2(closer to the windshield)

Lower 2 (Leading) #1(closer to the headlights) #2(closer to the windshield)

If you noticed the T's and L's match up.
top=trailing
lower=leading
1 is front
2 is rear

3. Air - No rats or mice living in the intake, etc. There is a butterfly that should open some too.

4. Fuel - See the gentleman above's post or other. (can explain later if needed)

5. Your light issues - Could be bad, not sure. I used the LED test light method plugged into the engine harness to do a quick check of the ECU. There are multiple places that you get 12vdc with the key turned to the second position in the engine bay. With a meter or the LED lights You can test that too, later. You checked fuses, and you have a meter, good to know.

There is a correct testing methodology for these cars in the FSM if you are inclined to do some reading. I did and I learned a lot. Also, the gentleman with the last post knows way more about these cars than I do. If he offers help, I would take his advise before mine. If you can, be a little more precise about what has been done. If any of these fail, stop and report back. I gave you numbers, it should be easier now.

With the numbers here, there are multiple ways and multiple tests to check each number. Just be patient and respectful to other posters time. The forum will come through and find an answer.

 

So far, haven't seen an update of you actually checking the remaining underhood fuses with a multimeter. Can you please complete this simple 2 minute task? Help us help you.

After that, there is a black single check connector on the leading coil harness where it plugs into the leading coil. With the key in the run position, check for 12v.