Happy?

 

Relocated the battery yesterday. Picked up some brackets from the hardware section at Home
Depot. Bent them using some clamps and a hammer. The assembly came out pretty sturdy,
and I though it looked pretty clean.






Thats a 150 AMP breaker that then runs to a distribution stud under the hood. At that stud I
will be attaching the origonal positive which goes to starter and fuse box. And there is the
finished box with my old battery in it.





Also, picked up this guy. Cost me more than I wanted, but I couldnt ever get one in the FS
section

 

And, I am still not sure on the thermo wax crap from the previous page if anyone wants to still clarify...

 

looking good waiting for the start up!!!!

 

Im planning on that being in the next couple of weeks. Im living back where she is for the summer now. Which means I can actually get work accomplished. Its getting pretty close, so I will be posting some updates soon, and Im sure some questions.

 

nice build.... im kurrently doing the same thing right now.. did u have any problems out of your rotor housing they looked pretty beat up

 

The pictures in here of the housings and irons were after only brief cleaning. I
cleaned and examined them much more in depth later, and they appeared to be
okay. Since she overheated I checked the irons very well for any cracking from the
water seals going out. But everything was good.

Hope your build is going well, do you have anything posted on the forum about it?

Worked on here a good amount over the holiday weekend, Ill post some updates
at some point. I dont have to many pics of the work. And its not too exciting, just
reassembly. But its exciting for me.

 

Im in the finishing stages of the rebuild now, but I still have a few questions I
need help with. And sorry if it sounds like I dont know what Im doing, Im learning
through out this build.


1.) I still need to know where this tube goes:




2.) (See pic from 3) Now, I know both of these go near the turbo (black lines). Half
I know where it goes, but What does the "looped" part go to. I know what to do
with the half that bolts to the top of the turbo. Do I not use it?

3.) Where does the smaller diameter silver one go. I had it labeled but as "near turbo" that helped...




4.) What do I do with the pressure sensor. Because it was connected to emissions
stuff I removed correct?

5.) What is the hard line from the cat to the engine bay? I'm removing the cat.

I also have to look up how to instal the BOV as Im not sure how to go about it, so
if anyone has some advice or a link it would be appreciated.

 

.

 

^^
1.) Yeah, thats where the other end is now. Is that even right?

 

Here is what Im going to do unless someone can interject. I would like to start the car tonight or Thursday.

(1) Nothing, still dont have any idea

(2) Use only the oil line

(3) Nothing, I see no where for it near the turbo. From something I removed maybe..

(4) Routed to the LIM and also T-ed in the BOV to this line

(5) Blocked off

I will obviously go over these one last time before the start, but its been a year without my seven and Im ready to start her up. Been having dreams about driving it again haha

I will also post up some updates after work tonight. Maybe I will have started it and can post that up. Im sure Ill have new questions after start as well.

 

this is a great write up lol.... im gonna use this as reference for my rebuild lol

 

Im glad someone appreciates my struggles.. Ha

But, these threads also go along with this build and further clarify my questions
on emissions removal, and a few other small things. Could be helpfull to anyone
doing a similar build/modification process.

Thermo-wax/emissions Clarifications

Questions to finish up the rebuild

 

Some updates as I said:

Not really much to caption about them. I made a cover piece from lexan. Finalized the IC piping
and mounted BOV. Fitted the MAF but still need a filter. And just finished up small stuff. Im pretty
happy with the bay. I spent a good amount of time cleaning things up. What do you guys think?







Relocated the ignition coils.




Some close ups I liked

 

Same here i am actually working on my 87 rebuild which i just finished with a street port and tubro upgrade but now the car is getting no spark so make sure you lable everything....bc i am really stuck right now going wire by wire...........luckly the body is like your very clean

 

Great Job!!

 

Thanks Drakelee ^^

Oh man, Im hoping mine goes smoothly. I labeled things pretty well so we shall see. Good luck with figuring your issue out.

Quick update. I was going to start her last night, but I have lost my IAT sensor for the Greddy elbow and NAPA and the Zone didnt have one. So Im calling the dealership today. Meaning, I should have startup tonight!

 

That vaccuum line that is connected to the clutch slave cylinder... it was probably left on by the last person to bleed the hydraulic line that actuates the clutch fork, the nipple it attaches to on the slave cylinder is just a bleeder valve exactly like that which you would find on the brakes. Use it to bleed the clutch line then take that mother out to clean up your engine bay a little!


PS Great job with this rebuild, did similar on an 87 in a bit tougher shape then yours, wish mine looked so clean! Lets see some video of it hittin the streets!

 

^^ Thank you. Ive had that posted for like a week and no one could tell me that...

But, I still dont have that air temp sensor, but I turned the key tonight and it will crank, but I didn't have the plugs in. So Im thinking that I will try and get it running tomorrow. I just wont drive it since Im sure it will need idle tunning and I dont have that sensor. Does anyone know if its a bad Idea to just plug that sensor bung so I can see if she will start?

 

Been cranking the car this morning, but it won't quite start. Im not too sure on what to check. My guess would be Im not getting spark, so I will be looking into that this afternoon. Its getting fuel just fine, but the exhaust smell is just pure gas.. But, if anyone can think of a quick check of something simple I may have missed, and help/suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Could be completely flooded...try giving it a push start after confirming that you have spark...

Also check and make sure your Crank angle sensor is lined up correctly with the timing mark on the e-shaft pulley...

Maybe check the stupider stuff too...
spark plug wires going from the right ignitor to the right plug?
spark plugs still good?
fuel lines backwards? (this is how my rebuild didnt start, figured it out after i could get it to fire with starting fluid)
MAF plugged in?
All fuses good?
Fuel pump working? (jumper the yellow connector on the pass side and listen for fuel)

 

She started up!

Ran for about 2-3 min. Everything seemed okay. It was just flooded. I don't know
why I didn't think of that yesterday.. The RPM's were pretty high though, about 2k
the whole time. Im not sure if this is normal, or it just needs to be adjusted. Because
I did remove the emissions, so Im sure that affected it.

Honestly, Im not sure what to expect on start up with a fresh rebuild as this is my
first. I have a video of it below (first minute of running). Keep in mind, its open
downpipe and the emissions are removed that were previously intact the last time
the car ran.

So, does it sound alright, and what should I be expecting? There is a bit of a high
pitched sound I was concerned about. You can hear it near the end of the clip.

RX-7 First Start

 

Sounds pretty rough, and there shouldn't be that much smoke. You sure it's running on both rotors? Sound is wierd, but since you're missing pieces of the exhaust, that's likely ... Check TPS, CAS, and fuel adjustments per FSM...

 

It actually runs fairly smoothly, IMO it sounds alright (as in getting proper amount of fuel and running on both rotors, ext. ) I think the open DP and a shitty camera might make it sound rough. Its just a really high idle. And as for the smoke, that is just from putting a good amount of oil into the spark plug holes. And it was in a garage so it couldn't vent. The smoke stops after the oil burns off. And after running it some more tonight, I think the whining is the pulleys and/or belt. I let it get up to temp, and the idle stayed real high, so I'm figuring it needs adjustment.

One concern, the OMP lines don't have oil in them.. Should they at idle? They are clear lines from being rebuilt so I can see that there is no oil.

 

Had the first drive around the neighborhood tonight.

I was tweaking the idle, and figured out that the throttle cable is really tight and it
is not releasing all the way and causing the throttle to be somewhat open.
Because if I pry it back (more closed throttle position), the idle drops way down,
but soon after I release, it shoots back up. The linkage isn't even touching the
adjustment screw, so I'm thinking the cable needs tweaking. I tried rerouting it so
it wasn't stretched through the bay, thats probably the only problem..

I re-stabbed the CAS as well, and I think that helped some too. It really helped to
take the cover off so that I could see the gears moving and make sure it stayed
aligned as it engaged.

Also, the whining is definitely the pullys/belt. Because as the idle slows, the noise
stops and I readjusted the tension and the sound was reduced/stopped at lower
RPM. Ill just try a new belt first.

It did fine when driving. I didn't get above about 30 and 3rd gear. Its obnoxious
loud at 3k RPM with the open DP. I saw cops driving by after running it the other
night HAHA. But, with the super high idle of the throttle holding itself open, it
would drive without any throttle input.. So Ill be messing with that tomorrow
or wed. and hopefully getting it out and up to higher speeds; see how she feels.

Here is a quick video of the idle at like 1500. You can't see crap because I pulled
outside, but I think it sounds decent. Opinions?

RX-7 Idle Adjustments

EDIT: The OMP lines were flowing after the drive, so that concern is done.