RX-7tII88

iTrader: (1)

Well, Im at the end of my rebuild and still have some questions I need help on. For
faster response Im making this thread to get attention, but the questions are in my
rebuild thread.

Here is link to last page (also in sig), questions are post #83: Rebuild

But, if you have any suggestions of things I might need to think of before starting
post them up. This is my first rebuild and I am very anxious to get her up and
running.

farberio

iTrader: (7)

Double check all of the important things, oil cooler lines tight. Coolant lines on tight...bolts on tight....

I started my rebuild up with a couple of loose connections...not fun when you think the worst every time something happens.

RX-7tII88

iTrader: (1)

Bump. Still need some more input, planning to do some work tomorrow night after work.

RX-7tII88

iTrader: (1)

1.) I still need to know where this tube goes:




2.) (See pic from 3) Now, I know both of these go near the turbo (black lines). Half
I know where it goes, but What does the "looped" part go to. I know what to do
with the half that bolts to the top of the turbo. Do I not use it?

3.) Where does the smaller diameter silver one go. I had it labeled but as "near turbo" that helped...




4.) What do I do with the pressure sensor. Because it was connected to emissions
stuff I removed correct?

5.) What is the hard line from the cat to the engine bay? I'm removing the cat.

I also have to look up how to instal the BOV as Im not sure how to go about it, so
if anyone has some advice or a link it would be appreciated.

RX-7tII88

iTrader: (1)

Still need some help with 1,2,3?

RX-7tII88

iTrader: (1)

Here is what Im going to do unless someone can interject. I would like to start the car tonight or Thursday.

(1) Nothing, still dont have any idea

(2) Use only the oil line

(3) Nothing, I see no where for it near the turbo. From something I removed maybe..

(4) Routed to the LIM and also T-ed in the BOV to this line

(5) Blocked off

I will obviously go over these one last time before the start, but its been a year without my seven and Im ready to start her up. Been having dreams about driving it again haha

solareon

iTrader: (1)

The green line is your charcoal canister line. This hooks up from that open nipple to a hard line underneath that little ledge in the firewall.

You need to do something about that open heater core line. The blue line shows how the hose wraps around to underneath the oil filter and the oil pressure sending unit.

You also have no IAT sensor in your greddy elbow. This is going to be a vacuum leak and will cause your engine to not start/idle correctly. It goes where the yellow circle is

The hose you showed a picture of could be from anywhere, it's just a generic looking vacuum line. It may go on that green line if you removed the charcoal canister then you will have that short piece of hose somewhere.

It also appears that you have blocked off the coolant lines that go into the throttle body but left the thermowax intact. This will cause you to have a high idle for a long time while the thermowax retracts because of ambient engine heat. This will also cause your secondary throttle plates to function incorrectly. You have a yellow cap on the hose that goes back to the BAC valve.

2) The looped line goes into the turbo inlet duct. This is part of the venting the crank case. If removed and not capped or dealt with at the oil filler neck you will have oil spitting out of there

3) This is the line for the twin scroll actuator. I didn't peruse your other thread to see if you had removed it but that is what that line goes to.

RX-7tII88

iTrader: (1)

Sorry that is a older picture from my build. I already have (or will) taken care of the heater hoses, charcoal canister, thermo-wax (rerouted to bypass the BAC), and the IAT sensor (Its somewhere in my garage I just need to look harder)

Thanks for clarifying (2). I know about that venting system but didnt know that was its line. I will run a drip line so that the pressure can still vent.

Unless (3) has to do with the EGR, BAC, ACV, Sub Zero, Split Air, or Charcoal Canister I havent removed it, and where should it run?

RX-7tII88

iTrader: (1)

Alright, well I got the twin scroll actuator mounted on the manifold but Im not sure
what the other end connects too. I ran some vacuum to it from the rear of the TB.
Can someone tell me if thats alright?

RX-7tII88

iTrader: (1)

Also, I have lost the IAT sensor... I tried going to NAPA and the Zone but they didnt have it. So, where can I get one. The dealer? I called them and they didnt even know what I was talking about..

blackrotary23

take off all the emissions, this will eliminate at least half of the problems on first start up. you wont have to bother looking through all of it b/c it wont be there.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

"emissions removal" can create as many problems as it solves if you don't know what you're doing.

you need to pressure test for fuel leaks (using the factory diagnostic connector) and you need to pressure test for vacuum/boost leaks. Do a search on both.

solareon

iTrader: (1)

the twin scroll needs to go to the twin scroll solenoid in the emissions rack. If you hook it up to a normal vacuum port it may work correctly but it depends on where you start building boost.

RX-7tII88

iTrader: (1)

Well.. I removed the emissions solenoid, so what should I do?

blackrotary23

that solenoid you can actually keep on, it wont hurt anything.

RX-7tII88

iTrader: (1)

Ugh, alright, thats just something else I have to figure out.. Im so anxious to start her..

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

No, no and no! Do you have any idea how many botched emissions removals have resulted in a car that never runs correctly again? It is very easy to screw up the emissions removal if you don't know what you are doing, and cause many problems.

Please don't give out advice like this.