87 turbo II needs guru help
87 turbo II needs guru help
Well I found a broken manifold stud , and couldnt remove it without first removing the motor. so long story short a fixed it thinking maybe this was the cause of my no run problem. Well its all back together and it still doesnt run. I notice that the turbo does no spin at idle though is this normal? also I get spark for the first rew seconds i turn the car over then it stops throwing spark . SO it still almost starts then dies. lol out of ideas Help anyone?
the air flow meter is the primary load sensing device on the fc. it wont run with out it. if your watching hte turbo i dnt see how it can be plumed in and of course it will not run right, it would act like a MAJOR vacume leak and not run at all.
The fuel pump will run as follow:
Key to ON and the yellow fuel pump check connector jumpered.
Key HELD to START.
Engine actually running with the afm plug on the afm and the vane in the afm *making* a switch internal to the AFM to send a ground to the circuit opening relay so that relay will pull in and feed the pump.
So. Removing the afm's electrical plug results in the car starting (key held to Start), but when the key is released to ON, there is NOTHING to keep the afore mentioned relay pulled in to feed the fuel pump.
So now you know why there is a lack of fuel when the afm plug is removed.
I messed with my intake today. I later went to start the engine. It started right up , then died right away. Duh. The afm was laying on the garage floor. \
Installed the afm. Engine started right up then died. Wanted to keep running if I held the pedal down. Duh. I'd left the line to the brake booster off. Reattached same.
Started the engine. Started right up.........but ran funny. Duh. Left the vacuum line off the blowoff valve. Reattached same. Stuff happens when your not paying attention.
How your engine idle with the afm plug off is a mystery to me. Unless you had the yellow connector jumpered or the plug on the afm and afm just laying to the side.
Key to ON and the yellow fuel pump check connector jumpered.
Key HELD to START.
Engine actually running with the afm plug on the afm and the vane in the afm *making* a switch internal to the AFM to send a ground to the circuit opening relay so that relay will pull in and feed the pump.
So. Removing the afm's electrical plug results in the car starting (key held to Start), but when the key is released to ON, there is NOTHING to keep the afore mentioned relay pulled in to feed the fuel pump.
So now you know why there is a lack of fuel when the afm plug is removed.
I messed with my intake today. I later went to start the engine. It started right up , then died right away. Duh. The afm was laying on the garage floor. \
Installed the afm. Engine started right up then died. Wanted to keep running if I held the pedal down. Duh. I'd left the line to the brake booster off. Reattached same.
Started the engine. Started right up.........but ran funny. Duh. Left the vacuum line off the blowoff valve. Reattached same. Stuff happens when your not paying attention.
How your engine idle with the afm plug off is a mystery to me. Unless you had the yellow connector jumpered or the plug on the afm and afm just laying to the side.
here is the thing though. when i do have the AFM all properly installed the motor the car will spark for 2-3 seconds then nothing. A side note, anytime i create a vacuum leak (anywhere)the car keeps sparking WTF? right?and and the elec plug is still connected while the AFM is just laying on the fender like you guessed.
here is the thing though. when i do have the AFM all properly installed the motor the car will spark for 2-3 seconds then nothing. A side note, anytime i create a vacuum leak (anywhere)the car keeps sparking WTF? right?and and the elec plug is still connected while the AFM is just laying on the fender like you guessed.
The engine really should not keep running if the AFM is not installed all the way. After the engine starts, the ECU THEN depends on the afm to deliver the right amount of fuel to keep it running.
IF the afm is laying on the fender, it's not doing much of anything at all, unless it's connector is on which keeps the fuel pump running but not much of anything else.
The afm NEEDS to be connected and installed for things to work.
Actually I have no answer at all why the spark goes away with the afm connected up as normal. I've seen other threads that mention this but I know not why the spark goes south. AFM is for fuel only, the last time I looked. Well, controls timing too, but spark? Never seen that myself.
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yeah it pretty strange. my buddy has an AFM laying around his house. Not sure what model mazda it came out of but the car reponded well to it. no loss of spark and ildes on its own. doesnt run right but it wouldnt with the wrong AFM
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