chris1234p

I have an 87 TII with a full racing beat turbo exhaust, RB FCD and Im getting an intake that bolts onto the air flow sensor part tomorrow. I heard that with my current set up I might detonate sometimes which is bad, and I plan on upgrading my fuel system next. Im just learning about Rx-7s so if someone could tell me what parts are needed to upgrade my fuel system and how much it costs for each part, also the order in which I should buy them. Also is a blow off valve a good thing to add to a TII?

TRURX7

I am in the same boat. I think I will go for a FMIC from a starion or a custom chargecooler setup. I havent decided.

FEARED7

Next you need to retard your timing 5 degrees, then some GSLSE secondaries, then turn the boost up to around 11 psi. After that you need a Super AFC, 3rd gen fuel pump, then a Turbo upgrade. You will be set to run 12's if you can drive and you have a healthy engine

Bryan
www.bnrsupercars.com

The Ace

and next you'll need an engine rebuilt, or a new engine at that

breesej

First buy a manual (Haynes or Factory Service) and read it cover to cover. Study and memorize it!.

You already have a blow off valve Mazda calls it a pressure relief valve and it vents back into the intake after the air flow meter.

gsracer

you can make it a open atmoshphere bov with a nice 7 dollar watervalve from home depot just did that the other day, lol it's weak but it's cheap come on now

Scott 89t2

not sometimes. you will!. your engine might last 2 weeks. leave the intake off and buy a bigger fuel pump first. you can get a walbro 255 for around $120. The other thing you need right away is a boost gauge.

TheAnalogKiddd

iTrader: (2)

DEFINATELY get an aftermarket boost gauge and a walbro, if you're feeling spicy, some bigger secondaries.. but you're also gonna need either an ecu reprogram or a s-afc if you're gonna boost that high.. i.e. over 10 psi

If you're getting an aftermarket intake, PORT THE WASTEGATE and then get/make a manual boost controller to get the boost where you want it.. don't go over 11-12 psi.

Forget about the aftermarket BOV, no good to you.. if you really want the sound, just perform the DIY BOV mod.

if you want your engine to last for the future upgrades take these precautions..


good luck.

jon88se

Is it that skeptical that the car will live long running mid 12's?? With a nice rich mixture what would the problem be??

BlackRx7

Alot of us are in the same boat, I have opted to put my stock air box back on since I have installed my down pipe /w full exhaust, so I don't overboost and detinate, with my cone on I hit 9 psi with the box I'm at a safe 7 psi..

The Ace

You are all talking about full exhasts and downpipes, and how all these made you boost around 11-12psi. So how come my catback and intake (and rebuilt turbo ) made me boost almost 14psi ?




.......trying of course not to press down too hard on the gas pedal, until I can get my pump, injectors and program

BoostedRotors

Someone was telling me about this...what is the valve called that you bought?

gsracer

threaded 1/2 inch water valve from the plumbing department of home depot. Get a threaded brass tube that you can screw into one side of the valve. Get some tubing that will fit over the brass tube and hose clamps. Yank the stocker bov out of the TID, rotate it about 180 degrees, and connect the check valve to the stock valve with the hose. Tighten hose clamps and enjoy your new found ghettoness.

yes I realize this post is 3 months old...I was searching for manual boost controllers and decided to answer this.