I have an 87 T2 that I got from a friend. It had been sitting along time and had some parts removed. It had a bad engine, got hot blew seal. I got it home and wanted to see if it would turn over. It did low compression and no spark. I changed CAS, still no spark. I just put an S4 jspec in it. It still has no spark. I tested thr resistance on CAS g1, g2 at 154 ohms ne1, ne2 at153. The coils at .5 ohms on lead and .7 on the trailing. It has to be common to the car as I changed complete engine. Any help would be appreciated

 

Go to the LEAD coil assy and pull off the two wire plug that is WHITE in color. See if the black/yellow wire has battery voltage on it with the key to ON. No voltage? Then make sure the ENGINE fuse in the interior fuse box is good.

Still no 12vdc on the black/yellow?Check the EGI COMP and EGI INJECTOR fuse in the engine bay fuse box.

Those good and you have battery voltage on the black/yellow wire on the two socket white connector at the LEAD coil assy? NOT good at all.

I'd pull the plug off the boost sensor and put a meter on the Brown/White socket and see what the voltage is with the key to ON. It should be b/t 4-5vdc. That's good. IF only approx 1-2vdc..........I'd suspect the ECU being bad, BUT you might try to measure that voltage with the afm's plug off and see if there is a large change when it is off (voltage on the brown/white wire).

It's redundant, but you might pull the small plug off the ECU and see if you have battery voltage on the pin 3I and 3J. 3J is power from the Main Relay and 3I from the battery. But since you checked for battery voltage at the black/yellow wire at the lead coil earlier, your just repeating yourself to some extent.

A little off the wall................pull the cas out and leave the electrical plug on. Turn the key to ON. Spin the cas gear and look for spark from the sparkplug wires (lay 'em on the fender near the strut tower studs) and listen for a clicking from the primary fuel injectors as you spin the cas.

 

HAILERS said all ^ far betor then I could have if you do have voltage after all and still no spark it will be your ECU and I would bet alot b/c it is the Jspec ECU.

All S4 USDM FC's had the CAS signal feed from the motor harness. All S5 USDM FC's had the CAS fed from the body harness. This entails the connector pin on the ECU to be different. However there was no set order in Japan like there is in USA for the CAS feed so your JDM ECU can be a 50/50 chance if it will work or not.

 

Thanks for the help. The EGI has a burnt board. I have not found one yet. I'll let you know how it does after I change, it is a 332. Thanks again for the help!

 

I'm still waiting for the EGI to get here. It should be here tomorrow. I guess I'll clean up the mess I made in my shop putting it in. I alsoo have to put some of the interier back that got robbed out of it while it was sitting.

 

I got the EGI today. I put it in but still have no spark. Brown/white on boost sensor at 5.01 now, blk/yell on lead coil 12.34, I pulled the CAS and plug wire spinning it by hand no spark, I could not verify any sound from the injectors, however I don't hear that well. I could smell fuel when I was turning the car over.This is my first rotary and it has me stumped. If anyone has any other sugestions I would really appreciate them. I'm going to try to PM HAILERS.
THANKS

 

Have you ever ohm'd the cas out FROM the ECU? With the cas connected to the harness. Try that. Pin 1N to 1P and then pins 1T to 1Q.

If that's good, eeeeek. The only other thing that comes to mind is that the coil assy are not bolted to the chassis. The ignitor depend gets its ground from mating the coil assy to the chassis. Even if it was only one stud holding the coil assy in place that would do the job.

I guess the traii coil isn't putting out either????

Each coil assy has a single black bullet connector on it not attached to anything. Never ground that item. I THINK the coils/ignitor can be destroyed if you do. Guessing. Never done that myself.

If the cas ohms out ok, then I hate to say it, you might get a USED lead coil assy and try it out. Never bother with the trail coil assy.

When you try to start the car, the tach does NOT bounce a touch, does it. It shouldn't if the ECU isn't receiving a cas signal.

Darn. I've just pulled just one wire right out of the lead coil bore and spun the cas with the key to ON, and seen inch long or longer sparks coming out of the lead coil bore finding a ground on their own.

Try spinning with the afm plug off. It's an outside chance but not likely since you saw 5 vdc at the brown/white wire on the boost/pressure sensor.

 

The tach don't move when cranking. I've tried two CAS units in it. I tested them at the plu g1-g2 158 ohms, ne1-ne2 157 ohms. I will get anot her coil and igniter today.
Thanks

 

I'm convinced the cas is good. They almost never fail. BUT...I'd go the extra mile and ohm out the wires FROM the ECU thru the cas. It almost sounds like the cas is good, but the wires b/t the ECU and the cas are not there/broken/disconnected.

Remember, a coil assy needs to be bolted to the frame for it to work. Good luck.

 

yeah, unplug the airflow meter then try it? I went painfully through this with my first T2 and it was the MAF meter. good luck, stephen.

 

Thanks,
I'll try that in the morning.

 

I tried a new AFM. Still no spark.