2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

87 T2 Crank no start, has compression spark, no gas to plugs

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Old Apr 17, 2024 | 11:33 AM
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87 T2 Crank no start, has compression spark, no gas to plugs

87 T2, crank no start, changed spark plugs, compression good, has spark - fuel was old so drained tank completely , cleaned, filled with fresh gas. Still no start.

Removed fuel filter - full of old dirty gas. Replaced it - still no start. What gives? Going to tackle the pump next but weird the filter and leading fuel hose was full of old gas yet it still will not start.
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Old Apr 17, 2024 | 12:16 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
if you jump the fuel pump does it work?
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Old Apr 17, 2024 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
if you jump the fuel pump does it work?
haven’t done that yet I’ll try today schedule permitting
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Old Apr 17, 2024 | 12:29 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
its pretty easy to jump the test connector and see if the pump runs.
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Old Apr 17, 2024 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by C S
87 T2, crank no start, changed spark plugs, compression good, has spark - fuel was old so drained tank completely , cleaned, filled with fresh gas. Still no start.

Removed fuel filter - full of old dirty gas. Replaced it - still no start. What gives? Going to tackle the pump next but weird the filter and leading fuel hose was full of old gas yet it still will not start.
I had a variety of fueling issues like this when first getting my FC running. Turns out, I had 3 main issues when it came to fuel. First I figured out that previous owner had installed an aftermarket alarm that was cutting fuel. Was an absolute rats nest of under dash wiring. Probably not your issue, but worth a check if you figure out your pump isn't getting power. Issue 2 was that a rat had chewed through my harness under the floormat at the ECU, killing just my injector wires lol. And issue no.3 was a fuel pressure issue. This one definitely could be your issue. Turns out, the injectors are super picky about what fuel pressure they fire at, and in the fuel pump assembly there's a soft line between the pickup and the sender hardline. This is held on with two hose clamps, and the first time this happened to me it was because of a super cracked old rubber line. This happened again about a year later and left me on the side of the road because i used too small a hose clamp and it snapped. If you have good fuel pressure you can hear the fuel pressure reg working in the engine bay with the pump test connector jumped, it makes a woooooosh type sound. Hope this helps
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Old Apr 17, 2024 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
ipretty easy to jump the test connector and see if the pump runs.
where is the test connector located
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Old Apr 17, 2024 | 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by C S
where is the test connector located
it's a silly yellow connector on the passenger shock tower near the MAF. Just get a small piece of wire and jump the two pins, this will turn the fuel pump on when you turn the key to the on position
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Old Apr 17, 2024 | 03:52 PM
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From: CT


Is it the first one?
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Old Apr 17, 2024 | 03:59 PM
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From: Oregon
Originally Posted by C S


Is it the first one?
yup, looks like it!
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Old Apr 17, 2024 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by cgunnr
yup, looks like it!
I just did it and all I hear is a click under the steering column
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Old Apr 17, 2024 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by C S
I just did it and all I hear is a click under the steering column
Well, that would indicate that your fuel pump relay is flipping, since that's where it's located, but if you dont hear the hum of the pump, then you're gonna have to start at the pump. It's under the metal cover in the trunk. The cover plate is 4 phillips head screws, and then you remove it from the tank with another 8 or so screws. you may just have a bad fuel pump.
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Old Apr 17, 2024 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by cgunnr
Well, that would indicate that your fuel pump relay is flipping, since that's where it's located, but if you dont hear the hum of the pump, then you're gonna have to start at the pump. It's under the metal cover in the trunk. The cover plate is 4 phillips head screws, and then you remove it from the tank with another 8 or so screws. you may just have a bad fuel pump.
ok thanks so much I’ll keep everyone posted. If your right your a savior
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Old Apr 18, 2024 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by cgunnr
Well, that would indicate that your fuel pump relay is flipping, since that's where it's located, but if you dont hear the hum of the pump, then you're gonna have to start at the pump. It's under the metal cover in the trunk. The cover plate is 4 phillips head screws, and then you remove it from the tank with another 8 or so screws. you may just have a bad fuel pump.
so I got the 4 screws off and was about to get the 8 baby screws off but it seems that black plug that sits on top is connected somehow to the top of the fuel pump cover?
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Old Apr 18, 2024 | 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by cgunnr
Well, that would indicate that your fuel pump relay is flipping, since that's where it's located, but if you dont hear the hum of the pump, then you're gonna have to start at the pump. It's under the metal cover in the trunk. The cover plate is 4 phillips head screws, and then you remove it from the tank with another 8 or so screws. you may just have a bad fuel pump.

I have it almost removed, the screws are minty clean but I am confused about the black circular plug that sits on top, should that be removed?
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Old Apr 18, 2024 | 04:29 PM
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From: Oregon
Originally Posted by C S
I have it almost removed, the screws are minty clean but I am confused about the black circular plug that sits on top, should that be removed?
its just a rubber grommet to hold the wire in. It presses in and out you can remove it and it will make your life a bit easier. Fits in pretty well but just give it a little push with something and it should come out
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Old Apr 18, 2024 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by cgunnr
its just a rubber grommet to hold the wire in. It presses in and out you can remove it and it will make your life a bit easier. Fits in pretty well but just give it a little push with something and it should come out
After replacing the fuel pump, it started and it sounds like new. Thanks for your help
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Old Apr 19, 2024 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by C S
After replacing the fuel pump, it started and it sounds like new. Thanks for your help
no problem! have fun and enjoy it
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Old Apr 19, 2024 | 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by cgunnr
no problem! have fun and enjoy it
hey! I’m back. It idles cold at about 2000 rpm. Is that a normal range for a bone stock turbo 2?
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Old Apr 20, 2024 | 09:26 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by C S
hey! I’m back. It idles cold at about 2000 rpm. Is that a normal range for a bone stock turbo 2?
yes
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Old Apr 20, 2024 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
yes
ok - should I let it keep idling until it gets warm? I’m concerned due to the age and that it was sitting a thermostat or something may be bad and at temp could cause an issue
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Old Apr 20, 2024 | 03:49 PM
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Warm idle at about 1200 rpm is that normal
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Old Apr 21, 2024 | 09:25 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by C S
Warm idle at about 1200 rpm is that normal
if you start it cold it should go to 1600-1800rpm and then gradually lower, until the temp hits 65c, which is the first mark on the gauge. after that it should idle at 750rpm

if its not, the fast idle is done by a thing called the thermal-wax which is a wax pellet that pushes the throttle open when its cold. in addition to being old, the hoses can be full of air, or clogged
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