RX7Club.com - Mazda RX7 Forum

RX7Club.com - Mazda RX7 Forum (https://www.rx7club.com/)
-   2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) (https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/)
-   -   87 T2 Crank no start, has compression spark, no gas to plugs (https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/87-t2-crank-no-start-has-compression-spark-no-gas-plugs-1165962/)

C S 04-17-24 11:33 AM

87 T2 Crank no start, has compression spark, no gas to plugs
 
87 T2, crank no start, changed spark plugs, compression good, has spark - fuel was old so drained tank completely , cleaned, filled with fresh gas. Still no start.

Removed fuel filter - full of old dirty gas. Replaced it - still no start. What gives? Going to tackle the pump next but weird the filter and leading fuel hose was full of old gas yet it still will not start.

j9fd3s 04-17-24 12:16 PM

if you jump the fuel pump does it work?

C S 04-17-24 12:19 PM


Originally Posted by j9fd3s (Post 12599789)
if you jump the fuel pump does it work?

haven稚 done that yet I値l try today schedule permitting

j9fd3s 04-17-24 12:29 PM

its pretty easy to jump the test connector and see if the pump runs.

cgunnr 04-17-24 01:46 PM


Originally Posted by C S (Post 12599771)
87 T2, crank no start, changed spark plugs, compression good, has spark - fuel was old so drained tank completely , cleaned, filled with fresh gas. Still no start.

Removed fuel filter - full of old dirty gas. Replaced it - still no start. What gives? Going to tackle the pump next but weird the filter and leading fuel hose was full of old gas yet it still will not start.

I had a variety of fueling issues like this when first getting my FC running. Turns out, I had 3 main issues when it came to fuel. First I figured out that previous owner had installed an aftermarket alarm that was cutting fuel. Was an absolute rats nest of under dash wiring. Probably not your issue, but worth a check if you figure out your pump isn't getting power. Issue 2 was that a rat had chewed through my harness under the floormat at the ECU, killing just my injector wires lol. And issue no.3 was a fuel pressure issue. This one definitely could be your issue. Turns out, the injectors are super picky about what fuel pressure they fire at, and in the fuel pump assembly there's a soft line between the pickup and the sender hardline. This is held on with two hose clamps, and the first time this happened to me it was because of a super cracked old rubber line. This happened again about a year later and left me on the side of the road because i used too small a hose clamp and it snapped. If you have good fuel pressure you can hear the fuel pressure reg working in the engine bay with the pump test connector jumped, it makes a woooooosh type sound. Hope this helps

C S 04-17-24 01:51 PM


Originally Posted by j9fd3s (Post 12599794)
ipretty easy to jump the test connector and see if the pump runs.

where is the test connector located

cgunnr 04-17-24 02:41 PM


Originally Posted by C S (Post 12599823)
where is the test connector located

it's a silly yellow connector on the passenger shock tower near the MAF. Just get a small piece of wire and jump the two pins, this will turn the fuel pump on when you turn the key to the on position

C S 04-17-24 03:52 PM

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2ad08a559.jpeg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...832b92759.jpeg
Is it the first one?

cgunnr 04-17-24 03:59 PM

yup, looks like it!

C S 04-17-24 04:06 PM


Originally Posted by cgunnr (Post 12599854)
yup, looks like it!

I just did it and all I hear is a click under the steering column

cgunnr 04-17-24 04:29 PM


Originally Posted by C S (Post 12599856)
I just did it and all I hear is a click under the steering column

Well, that would indicate that your fuel pump relay is flipping, since that's where it's located, but if you dont hear the hum of the pump, then you're gonna have to start at the pump. It's under the metal cover in the trunk. The cover plate is 4 phillips head screws, and then you remove it from the tank with another 8 or so screws. you may just have a bad fuel pump.

C S 04-17-24 04:33 PM


Originally Posted by cgunnr (Post 12599860)
Well, that would indicate that your fuel pump relay is flipping, since that's where it's located, but if you dont hear the hum of the pump, then you're gonna have to start at the pump. It's under the metal cover in the trunk. The cover plate is 4 phillips head screws, and then you remove it from the tank with another 8 or so screws. you may just have a bad fuel pump.

ok thanks so much I値l keep everyone posted. If your right your a savior

C S 04-18-24 11:34 AM


Originally Posted by cgunnr (Post 12599860)
Well, that would indicate that your fuel pump relay is flipping, since that's where it's located, but if you dont hear the hum of the pump, then you're gonna have to start at the pump. It's under the metal cover in the trunk. The cover plate is 4 phillips head screws, and then you remove it from the tank with another 8 or so screws. you may just have a bad fuel pump.

so I got the 4 screws off and was about to get the 8 baby screws off but it seems that black plug that sits on top is connected somehow to the top of the fuel pump cover?

C S 04-18-24 12:48 PM


Originally Posted by cgunnr (Post 12599860)
Well, that would indicate that your fuel pump relay is flipping, since that's where it's located, but if you dont hear the hum of the pump, then you're gonna have to start at the pump. It's under the metal cover in the trunk. The cover plate is 4 phillips head screws, and then you remove it from the tank with another 8 or so screws. you may just have a bad fuel pump.


I have it almost removed, the screws are minty clean but I am confused about the black circular plug that sits on top, should that be removed?

cgunnr 04-18-24 04:29 PM


Originally Posted by C S (Post 12599963)
I have it almost removed, the screws are minty clean but I am confused about the black circular plug that sits on top, should that be removed?

its just a rubber grommet to hold the wire in. It presses in and out you can remove it and it will make your life a bit easier. Fits in pretty well but just give it a little push with something and it should come out

C S 04-18-24 08:55 PM


Originally Posted by cgunnr (Post 12599985)
its just a rubber grommet to hold the wire in. It presses in and out you can remove it and it will make your life a bit easier. Fits in pretty well but just give it a little push with something and it should come out

After replacing the fuel pump, it started and it sounds like new. Thanks for your help

cgunnr 04-19-24 03:08 PM


Originally Posted by C S (Post 12600000)
After replacing the fuel pump, it started and it sounds like new. Thanks for your help

no problem! have fun and enjoy it :)

C S 04-19-24 04:47 PM


Originally Posted by cgunnr (Post 12600068)
no problem! have fun and enjoy it :)

hey! I知 back. It idles cold at about 2000 rpm. Is that a normal range for a bone stock turbo 2?

j9fd3s 04-20-24 09:26 AM


Originally Posted by C S (Post 12600084)
hey! I知 back. It idles cold at about 2000 rpm. Is that a normal range for a bone stock turbo 2?

yes

C S 04-20-24 12:49 PM


Originally Posted by j9fd3s (Post 12600139)
yes

ok - should I let it keep idling until it gets warm? I知 concerned due to the age and that it was sitting a thermostat or something may be bad and at temp could cause an issue

C S 04-20-24 03:49 PM

Warm idle at about 1200 rpm is that normal

j9fd3s 04-21-24 09:25 AM


Originally Posted by C S (Post 12600168)
Warm idle at about 1200 rpm is that normal

if you start it cold it should go to 1600-1800rpm and then gradually lower, until the temp hits 65c, which is the first mark on the gauge. after that it should idle at 750rpm

if its not, the fast idle is done by a thing called the thermal-wax which is a wax pellet that pushes the throttle open when its cold. in addition to being old, the hoses can be full of air, or clogged


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:23 AM.


© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands