LTLCRZY427

My 87 keeps flooding. The temps have gotten much colder here this week and it's really becoming a bitch to get out and pull the fuses all the time. I once heard of a "Anti-Flooding" kit that disables the fuel pump for the first few seconds of cranking then it returns to normal operation. Does anyone know of this kit and where to get it?

I'm guessing my injectors are crapping out, but unless I can get them cheap somewhere I'm going to try other cheaper methods. Last time I checked injectors were over $100 for each one! Is there a cheaper place to get them!?!? Thanks guys.

Mallard Duck

I'm not sure how cold exactly it's been in Iowa, but here in upstate NY, my '87 Sport has flooded twice in two days. I think the second time was my fault, I tried to take off really quick and may have pushed on the gas while cranking...

hypntyz7

You need a small toggle switch(radio shack $2, black round rocker switch preferred), 2 wire taps, and 2 female spade connetors, adn 2" of 14-16 gage wire.

Take off your lower steering column cover. Mount the switch in it somewhere, I usually do it about 1.5" behind the keyhole on the same side. This way you can work the key and switch with one hand, no one else has to know its there, so its a theft deterrent also, plus its hard to see there. I take a dremel with a round bit and drill through it, then work around in a circle until the swtich fits in. Secure it well with the screw on back.

Get your wires ready, put a spade connector on the end of each 1 foot of wire(cut the 2' in half). Hook the spade connectors to the switch, which end doesnt matter.

Look under the dash, behind the steering column toward the pass. side. Looking for a black relay with a yellow base and a white plug, with 5 wires running out. FInd the middle wire, black with white stripe, thicker than the rest. Come about 1" off the relay, and CUT IT. Youre gonna use the wire taps to connect the ends of your 2 1' wires frm earlier, to each of the ends of the wire you just cut. WHich one goes where doesnt matter. Make the connections good and youll never have any trouble.

To work the switch: when starting the car, flip it off(down). Crank until it starts, then flip the switch on real quick. Youre set to roll. To turn car off: flip switch down(off) and wait for engine to stall. Remove your key and leave the switch off. IF you work it right, youll NEVER flood again.

MetalX7

i know i know this is a uberly old thread, but can someone explain exactly what this does?

i have a hard time starting the car in the morning and after work at night. once the car warmed up i can stop and start it without problems but once the engine had time to cool down, i have to crank it for 3 to 4 seconds, wait, crank again, wait, etc etc 4 to 6 times and it'll eventually start or the battery starts to die and i hook up my booster pack and it starts ... but its kinda annoying.

weather is getting colder and colder so i guess it'll just get worse. i'm not sure if my problems is flood related though, just wondering if this fix would help me

this is on an 86 gxl

edit: this has to be the oldest thread resurection ever !

densetsu

this is a mod to limit the fuel pressure when cranking the car. the switch he talks about installing will disable the fuel pump from pressurizing once the ignition switch is turned to the 'on' position. this will cause fuel pressure to be limited as to what was in the line initially and prevent the fuel pump from pressurizing the system further and flooding the motor. its a temporary solution for a problem that will likely get progressively worse until resolved.

if it starts easily with the booster pack connected, it sounds like your battery is running out of juice. its harder for batterys to turn cars over when cold, thats why there are two ratings on them - regular cranking amps and cold cranking amps.

Crzy Crl

Wireing is too much work. I have an 87 sport, same problem. Go to Mazda Trix and look for the fuel H-Block. It is jsut a 50 dollar brass fitting that conects right up to the engine block where the fuel delivery and return lines run. http://www.mazdatrix.com/c-bleed.htm
This takes maybe an hour to install and all it requires is a knife to shorten up the rubber fuel lines a bit. Why bother with hours of cutting wires, taking apart the dash, sodering, confusing switches and all that sh** when all you have to do is pop the hood and drop this in place. Basically all this does is bleed the pressure off the fuel lines after the engine is shut off. This prevents the fuel injectors from leaking due to the backed up pressure. Yes the lines will have to re-pressurize once the pressure drains off, so if the car sits for an hour our so, it will take a few seconds more of cranking to start. Dont worry, the fuel is just making its way back to the block. This is a great "poor mans" fix to the problem.

MetalX7

the battery is fine ... it'll be able to crank a couple times but if it takes longer than usual to start, (7~8x 4sec crank) the battery starts to give up and i have to hook up the booster. any battery will start to die after cranking for that long

thanks alot for the explanation, i will give it a shot

MetalX7

this is what it says on mazdatrix.com

this is the exact oposite of my problem. my car will start just fine once it has started or warmed up. i can let the car run for 10mins, stop it and start it again without any problems. If i let the car sit for a couple hours, allow the engine to cool down completely, it won't start right away. i have to do like i described above, crank it for a couple seconds, stop, crank again, etc 4 to 6 times before it starts.

in my case, it's the oposite. the no-start is NOT ok after sitting for a few hours or over night. it will be ok if it has been sitting for under an hour.

cutting wires and soldering is not an issue for me ... i've installed a bunch of piggybacks and alot of electronics on a few cars so this is not a big deal. + it's only 1 wire to cut

thanks alot for all the info guys. if the switch described in the old post doesn't work, i will look into the mazdatrix fix, ya never know.

Apex-it

Stupid suggestion but, once you've turned the car off do you smell gas anywhere??
There could just be a small leak some where allowing the fuel lines to depressurize. Resulting in multiple cranks to rebuild fuel pressure!! That could be why it's not a problem to re-start if it's been sitting for less than an hour, but a bugger to start once sitting for longer!!!

APEX-IT

Crzy Crl

Ok you can cut them if you like. I know thats what it says, but trust me i had EXACTLY the same problem. Warm car, no problem, cold sitting car, flood. Im telling you man, although thats what it says, it will work either way. I got the suggestion from the man i bought the car from, an rx7 junky. Im not lieing when I say, I bought this part, and iv have never flooded it since. Im serious this will solve the problem. Your injectors are old and leaky. They leak because there is pressure behind them and due to old age they give a little slowly dripping gas into the engine. With this pressure bleed off kit, the pressure begins to bleed back into the tank rather than staying in the fuel lines. Im serious, i know the problem and this fixed it. The only instance of flooding the engine since this fix was purly my fault. The car was cold. I turned it on, moved it 10 feet, and turned it off. It flooded it but i got it up and running shortly. This really is a worth while piece to buy. Weather you like, dislike, or dont care about wiring, everyone just likes saving time, and this is it. Its much easier than a switch and once its in there is no flipping swithces in sequences to turn the car on. Take my advice or not, im just throwing it out there. This product works!

MetalX7

great, thanks alot for writing all that =) i really appreciate it. looks like it would fix my problem

Twofer

Hmm, cutting the wire to the relay at the ignition. That would have been easier than cutting the wire at the fuel pump connector and running lines forward. Oh well I had my carpet out anyway.