FeedBack159

yeah i also thought about that. maybe its a bad reman. ill try putting my stock s4 NA boost sensor in with the stock AFM just to see if i can get it to start. Dont worry im not gonna drive on it. haha

FeedBack159

Hi everyone,

So i put my NA AFM and Boost sensor back on, re timed it and turned the idle resister thing to all the way lean. After holding the throttle down about half way it started. With the pedal halfway down it was about 2.6k rpm and wanted to die if i completely let off the pedal so i had to slowly easy off of it. after it started warming up it idled at about 1.2k. While i let it warm up i made sure the coolant was full and did a few little other things. gave it a few little revs (under 3k) because i dont wanna push it not running the correct sensors. turned it off then had the same problem again where it sounds like it wants to start but wont. ill post a vid of it running a little later so you can hear it and tell me if she sounds okay.

FeedBack159

yes i know i have an exhaust leak right off of the turbo.

_NGL

FeedBack159

Yeah I need to check compression. But I'm having issues with hot and cold start.

SpikeDerailed

iTrader: (7)

I figured it had to do with the over boost fuel cut differences between S4 and S5. Well good to know.

FeedBack159

so today it started no problem. me and my brother timed it to the yellow mark. i think i just need to wait for my new afm and my boost sensor now. If i shut it off i need to clear all the fuel out of it by pulling the egi fuse and cranking it then it will start right back up.

FeedBack159

So i got the n318 boost sensor and AFM and it starts up a lot better. still have to hold the gas down for a min until it can idle on its own. i dont think my BAC is adjusted correctly. was gonna take it for a slow drive around the block but forgot i need to do my brake booster line first. good thing i remembered hahaha

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

Did you ever add resistors? Or do you have oem resistor packs?

FeedBack159

my car came with the low IMP injectors originally and since i used the factory harness i kept low IMP injectors with the new motor.

MidnightOwl

I had a pretty rad hot start issue when I first did my swap. Early model 87 TII engine into an 88 convertible, modified the stock N/A harness and wired in resistors for the injectors. Also rewired the alternator so the cluster lights wouldn't stay on.

My hot start issue was solved using this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...oblems-499744/

I put a switch on this wire in the glove box, so I could toggle it. Cold starts no problem (as long as the damn battery isn't dead) and then after driving around for a while I can flip the switch and crank it. Haven't gotten stranded anywhere yet. This was after I had determined that the compression was fine and I had sufficient fuel and spark. This one wire thing did the trick for me.

Rotary Alkymist

Just a quick question: Did you remove the blind cap from the CAS when you timed your engine?

FeedBack159

if u mean the cover on the CAS with the 2 screws. then yes. i also marked it when it was timed. after the correct boost sensor and AFM was installed the car runs pretty much as expected now except that its burning some oil.. I didn't rebuild the turbo so im just gonna start with that before i end up tearing the motor back down to check the Oil control rings..