rebuild and non seq conversion. car wont start 99% of time.
#1
rebuild and non seq conversion. car wont start 99% of time.
Just got done rebuilding my fd and also did a non seq conversion too. I have 1600cc secondaries and 850cc stock primaries.
It fired fine the first time I put it together. Two times in a row. Then it wouldnt start easy and would misfire really bad. It seemed like one rotor wasn't working. I have spark, I have compression. I also plugged in some extra injectors into my primary injector wires to make sure that the injectors are working. I've also swapped my 550cc's in my primaries along with my 850cc's. The car just wont start, or if it does it misfires really bad and shuts off. I am running a Power FC. Could the non-seq conversion caused problems? Anyone have any ideas?
It fired fine the first time I put it together. Two times in a row. Then it wouldnt start easy and would misfire really bad. It seemed like one rotor wasn't working. I have spark, I have compression. I also plugged in some extra injectors into my primary injector wires to make sure that the injectors are working. I've also swapped my 550cc's in my primaries along with my 850cc's. The car just wont start, or if it does it misfires really bad and shuts off. I am running a Power FC. Could the non-seq conversion caused problems? Anyone have any ideas?
#2
check map sensor and fuel pressure regulator. Mine had the exact same symptoms when I put mine in and it turned out to be the FPR. I went through a set of plugs a day until I changed the regulator.
#5
let her sit for an hour. I jumped in it fired right up, ran it at 2k rpms, it will die if i let it idle. After 15 seconds I had to turn it off because I have an unknown oil leak. Tried to start it again and it refused to start. Checked the plugs, they were dry. I pulled the EGI fuse, turned it over several times for 15 seconds each. Put the plugs back in, tried to turn it on and it just wouldnt start except for a few hiccups. GRRRR this is frustrating.
#7
I cant tune it if I cant start it, i was lucky to get it to start a few times. The power FC has been assigned 850cc in the options. also I went ahead and dropped in the stock 550's and adjusted accordingly. I've switched between the stock ecu and my powerfc with no change in results.
I lied about the plugs being dry. I didnt check the trailings. I didnt think it would matter. The trailing plugs were wet. I went ahead and pulled all 4 plugs this time. Pulled the EGI fuse again and turned the engine for about 20-30 seconds at a time. I did this 3 times. I dried the plugs and put them back in. After putting the fuse back in I tried to start the car again. All I got was a kickass backfire, nothing else. I've also unplugged my secondary injectors. All I want to happen now is for the damn thing to just start.
I lied about the plugs being dry. I didnt check the trailings. I didnt think it would matter. The trailing plugs were wet. I went ahead and pulled all 4 plugs this time. Pulled the EGI fuse again and turned the engine for about 20-30 seconds at a time. I did this 3 times. I dried the plugs and put them back in. After putting the fuse back in I tried to start the car again. All I got was a kickass backfire, nothing else. I've also unplugged my secondary injectors. All I want to happen now is for the damn thing to just start.
Last edited by Aeka GSR; 09-11-05 at 09:31 PM.
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#8
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Originally Posted by Aeka GSR
I cant tune it if I cant start it, i was lucky to get it to start a few times. The power FC has been assigned 850cc in the options. also I went ahead and dropped in the stock 550's and adjusted accordingly. I've switched between the stock ecu and my powerfc with no change in results.
I lied about the plugs being dry. I didnt check the trailings. I didnt think it would matter. The trailing plugs were wet. I went ahead and pulled all 4 plugs this time. Pulled the EGI fuse again and turned the engine for about 20-30 seconds at a time. I did this 3 times. I dried the plugs and put them back in. After putting the fuse back in I tried to start the car again. All I got was a kickass backfire, nothing else. I've also unplugged my secondary injectors. All I want to happen now is for the damn thing to just start.
I lied about the plugs being dry. I didnt check the trailings. I didnt think it would matter. The trailing plugs were wet. I went ahead and pulled all 4 plugs this time. Pulled the EGI fuse again and turned the engine for about 20-30 seconds at a time. I did this 3 times. I dried the plugs and put them back in. After putting the fuse back in I tried to start the car again. All I got was a kickass backfire, nothing else. I've also unplugged my secondary injectors. All I want to happen now is for the damn thing to just start.
Last edited by HDP; 09-11-05 at 11:49 PM.
#13
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I found that my local advance auto parts had 10 sets of RX-7 plugs in stock. Not the platinums, mind you, but the basic $4 plug that's worth buying 2 sets until you get it all running ok. Go on their websites (I use autozone and advanced auto) - most of them will let you see if the local store has them in stock.
Dave
Dave
#14
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Originally Posted by Aeka GSR
this is an aftermarket kit with a non stock regulator. It is set to around 50psi at the moment. Map sensor is ready to rock.
-Rob
#16
ok set her to 30 psi. got new plugs. did the unflood trick, poured in some MMO, she fired right up. WOO HOO. thanks guys. I let it run for about 30 second to a minute. I havent started it since. I just hope it didnt flood itself again.
So can anyone tell me why gas is bad for plugs?
So can anyone tell me why gas is bad for plugs?
#17
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ahah, wow 50psi is intense man....Basically you're blasting fuel through your injector and it's soaking the plug. The plug won't arc out if it doesn't have clean surfaces to connect between.
Good luck getting everything running
Good luck getting everything running
#18
well even with 30 psi she is flooding and wont idle. I have to keep her above 1500 rpms or it will die. I dial back fuel through the commander and it still is rich. My laptop power cable is freakin missing so i cant even do a log of the a/f right now. I've removed the aws off of the uim. I think the only things i have plugged in are idle control and tps. what is the solinoid that sits towards the firewall?
edit: crap i think i dont have my idle control plugged in. what color is the connector for it, white? i assume the idle control is the one that sits on the firewall side, right?
edit: crap i think i dont have my idle control plugged in. what color is the connector for it, white? i assume the idle control is the one that sits on the firewall side, right?
Last edited by Aeka GSR; 09-13-05 at 12:25 AM.
#19
Originally Posted by Aeka GSR
well even with 30 psi she is flooding and wont idle. I have to keep her above 1500 rpms or it will die. I dial back fuel through the commander and it still is rich. My laptop power cable is freakin missing so i cant even do a log of the a/f right now. I've removed the aws off of the uim. I think the only things i have plugged in are idle control and tps. what is the solinoid that sits towards the firewall?
edit: crap i think i dont have my idle control plugged in. what color is the connector for it, white? i assume the idle control is the one that sits on the firewall side, right?
edit: crap i think i dont have my idle control plugged in. what color is the connector for it, white? i assume the idle control is the one that sits on the firewall side, right?
I believe stock base fuel pressure is 43.5 ( I may be wrong though). you may want to try that. although since you are still running rich, it may be something else entirely.
Since you lowered the fuel pressure, have you checked the plugs to see if they are soaked with fuel? I went from a bad FPR and an Idle that I couldnt get above 9.9:1 A/F to a new FPR and an extremely lean idle until I changed the idle cells back to normal. I had taken soo much fuel out trying to lean out my idle that when I finally got the proper fuel pressure, it was very lean.
#20
Originally Posted by TwinTurbo_SE7EN
that is correct. idle speed control is the white connector and is closest to the firewall.
I believe stock base fuel pressure is 43.5 ( I may be wrong though). you may want to try that. although since you are still running rich, it may be something else entirely.
Since you lowered the fuel pressure, have you checked the plugs to see if they are soaked with fuel? I went from a bad FPR and an Idle that I couldnt get above 9.9:1 A/F to a new FPR and an extremely lean idle until I changed the idle cells back to normal. I had taken soo much fuel out trying to lean out my idle that when I finally got the proper fuel pressure, it was very lean.
I believe stock base fuel pressure is 43.5 ( I may be wrong though). you may want to try that. although since you are still running rich, it may be something else entirely.
Since you lowered the fuel pressure, have you checked the plugs to see if they are soaked with fuel? I went from a bad FPR and an Idle that I couldnt get above 9.9:1 A/F to a new FPR and an extremely lean idle until I changed the idle cells back to normal. I had taken soo much fuel out trying to lean out my idle that when I finally got the proper fuel pressure, it was very lean.
yes the plugs still get wet, i have to unflood her, throw some MMO in and start it up. A thought passed me, do the primary injectors have little plastic caps on their tips? If so how important are they and what do they do? My stock secondaries have them and I dont remember If i removed them from from my stock primaries if they even had them.
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