CERiggs

I have done some reading and experimenting, I just want to be sure about something. I think my six port actuators are locked up. Here is what I did to come to that conclusion:

In the picture I attached, I used a bulb syringe (for those who don't know what that is, here) to push air into the rubber tube coming from the split air pipe to the auxilary port actuators. The actuators made a clicking sound, but moved barely enough to see. So, I came to the conclusion that they are locked up.

However, the car was not running and the ignition was not on. I don't know if that makes a difference. Also, when driving there is a hesitation at a little over three thousand RPM's, and I was under the impression that the hesitation was the auxilary ports opening.

Any coments from those that know? Should that have worked? Does it seem the ports are indeed carbon locked?

I appreciate any help.

Chris

papiogxl

iTrader: (6)

Try pushing on them with your hand to see if they are locked up.

CERiggs

I tried pushing down, pulling up, no movement at all. I was looking for an easyier way out than taking the actuators apart. I know it is only two bolts, however, I am lazy and it is cold out. I guess I will just bite the bullet and go take it apart.

VacavilleFC

how far should they move? and how easily or hard should they be to move?

CERiggs

Excellant question. I just found aaroncake's guide to testing the auxilary ports and I am gonna go give it a shot. If they work, I will be able to post up.

For reference: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/6porttest.htm

VacavilleFC

yeah i had read that a while ago and tried it, but i don't believe mine are completely stuck just sticking alittle sometimes, cause i get alittle noise at 3800 but no noticable hesitation, and the noise usually only happens the first couple times i take it up to 4k each day.

CERiggs

Well, I put a dab of grease at the base of each of the actuator arms and took a "spirited" drive after warming up. I redlined first, second, and third about four times over, took a small breather, and repeated that a couple more times. Got home, and the dabs of grease were in the same spot, no smears at all.

I guess I will give another one of his writeups a try once the sun comes up:

http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/6portfix.htm

I believe I will end up having to take the intakes off.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Yep. They're locked up. Very common problem. You should be able to clean them up with some carb cleaner and re-install. I've seen some that are locked in so bad it would be easy to detroy the sleeve getting them out. Again, spray some carb cleaner on them and let them soak if you have a problem. I have a stack of the metal intake gaskets I'll never use if you want to come get one.

The hesitation is most likely the "3800 rpm hesitation". Another FC quirk. It's the switch over point for the secondaries. Do a search for that. It's well documented.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I doubt you can generate the 2PSI necessary to move them with a turkey baster.

However if you can't move them by hand, then they are probably locked. First, try cleaning them from the outside:

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/6portfix.htm

If that doesn't work, then you will need to remove the manifolds to get at the sleeves. Sometimes you can just pull the upper intake and then spray carb cleaner down into the lower...

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

I could be wrong, but it looks like that is an s4 actuator (they "suck" the rod inside the actuator) and is stuck in the open position. In the closed position, it should be resting on the little bump stop thing.
You can just take the actuator of to test it - each one just has 2 10mm nuts holding it on (DO NOT over tighten them when re-installing). If it is still stuck then, the actuator is the problem. Try rotating the little thing it attaches to to make that the sleeves aren't locked up as well. If the actuators are good, then either the sleeves of the rod inside the LIM that connects the actuator to the sleeve is locked up. If its just the rod, you can try dripping som PB blaster around it and move it around by hand to loosten it up. If its the sleeves, you have to remove the LIM to get to them.
Also, you can blow into the tube that goes to the actuators and open them. You can create a little over 2 PSI by blowing, so its a good test if they can open or not.
Edit: I forgot some of that is in the link aaron posted. Oh well.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You'll never create 2PSI when blowing. Blowing as hard as I can into a gauge hardly registers 0.4 PSI...Now, I can suck a good 30" of vacuum though.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Well, I have personally opened my aux ports by blowing into the tube, on an s4 and s5 car, so I know it can be done. I read somewhere to do this, so I know others can do it too.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You must have very loose ports.

Personally I wouldn't rely on a blow test since the spec is either 1.6 or 2.0 PSI. But if they open by blowing that certainly won't be a bad thing.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, I guess I shouldn't have said its a good way to test they open at the right time. I haven't worked on many cars, but all 3 I have tested have opened by blowing into the tube. I can barely get them open, but they still do.