Yeah, I know, this has been discussed plenty but I hear of one problem them I hear that they bolt right up. So I decided to see if i can get my own info. I've got a 91' GTU and I'm looking for a set of cheap third gen rims. I started some research and I've heard that you need wheel spacers and they get quite expensive. So I continued to look and I also read that they are direct bolt up with no problems with clearance. So this is what I want to know so I came here; Do they bolt rigth up or am I gonna have to get spacers? Thanks..

 

[QUOTE]
What size are my wheels?
The stock sizes all have an offset of 40mm or 40 ET and are:
14x6 w/ 114.3x4 bolt pattern (Base, Luxury, 88 SE)
15x6 w/ 114.3x5 bolt pattern (GXL, Sport, GTU, 91 coupe)
15x6.5 w/ 114.3x5 bolt pattern (convertible)
16x7 w/ 114.3x5 bolt pattern (Turbo, GTUs)

Will FD wheels fit on my FC?
If you use spacers. Typically you need spacers around 25mm (1"), depending on tires
[\QUOTE]

Funny, how did that get in the FAQ?

 

the fronts need spacers to clear the struts/springs and the rears need them for cosmetic reasons as they are very recessed in the wheelwell.

Concentric spacers are the ones to get but at $140ish a pair they can get pricey. The other alternative is a cheap aluminum spacer you can get at most parts stores but the amount of bite you get on the lug nuts will be less equivalent to whatever spacer you run.

A set of $300-400 3rd gen rims with $300 worth of spacers doesn't make them all that attractive anymore to put them on an FC.

-GNX7

 

GNX7 : Do you happen to know where you can get a set of the good hubcentric spacers?
And does anyone know if the hub size on an FD is the same as an FC?

 

Why can't anyone make hub-centric aluminum spacers?

If I go with FD wheels on my 2nd gen; that's likely what I'll do... Billet Aluminum Hub-Centric spacers and longer wheel-studs. Having access to CNC mills roxxors.

 

Hey Liquid , you think you could make a set of those for me? I pay whatever you want... PM me if you can....

 

Hub centric FD wheel to FC car spacers are available from CorkSport.

 

And they cost more than a peice of billet AL, I'm sure.

 

$285.00

 

That's quite a bit more... but it's pretty nice.

Still, $300 FD wheels + $285 Spacers... I could get some Slipstreams for that. Maybe Tarmecs?

 

I agree, it seems a waste of money for only average looking and average weighing wheels.

Plus by the time you add the weight of the spacer and longer studs, or double studs (as in the corksport one), the wheels are back up into the 20 lbs range, and you might as just use some lame ADR or Koneig or other heavy 16-17" wheel.

 

I have emailed corksport about those spacers, and have just gotten a response. The spacers are 33mm and will make the wheel stick out beyond the stock fender, so youll need a widebody fender to use them.

 

ya thats what i thought as well those spacers are more for the use of wide body kits than just for FC's with FD wheels that is a very large spacer

 

33mm, yeow! The car only needs a 20mm one, and that's like 13mm (half an inch!) thicker than necessary...


-Ted

 

heheh, 33mm, thats alot. im glad i got my wheels and spacers for a good price.

 

wait a mintue thats me, whos fc_dorifto...but i posted that...weird

 

i am insulted buy that statement i have ADR fuels on my car and the lack of metal on the rim makes it fairly light i would have to say 22-25lbs for the wheel itself not to bad considering. and they look damn good

 

I consider any wheel weighing more than 17-18lbs each to be a heavy wheel (although industry wise, that is a medium weight wheel).

There will be a marked decrease in top speed, 0-60 and RWHP because of that extra weight.

Every 5 lbs extra weight per wheel, robs about 5 HP from RWHP.

So compaired to say the BBS rims on a 'vert (11lbs each), you have taken 15 HP away, by bolting down a 25 lbs wheel. On a N/A this would be considerable. On a Turbo it would be the difference between a S4 and a S5 engine. Just by bolting on "cool looking" wheels.

To top that off, the sprung weight of each corner has increased, reducing the handling ability of the suspension. This forces the tire and shock to help try and make up for the extra weight, usually resulting in increased wear of each.

And then there is braking. Even a extra 5lbs weight in a wheel increases the load on the brakes and stopping distance (typically by around 10 ft, in the 80-0 test, despite any wider tire). There is simply more rotating mass to decrease.

And while finally, while ADR does make some med weight wheels (in the 15-18 lbs range) the majority of the wheels they do make are considerably more. That is why I used them as one of the examples.

 

if i could get vert wheels in 16x8 i'd be all over them

too bad I can't, though.

icemark: are those figures (5rwhp, 10ft, etc) accurate or are you overstating it for effect?

 

There are pretty close. I did round down, but they are based off info that Honda and several wheel manufactures (Ronal and BBS) have printed.