3800 Hesitation, car rev's fine w/o load.
#1
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3800 Hesitation, car rev's fine w/o load.
I appear to have the 3800 rpm hesitation on my 86. At first, I thought it was a bad gas tank which was causing debre to clog the fuel filter. We replaced the tank, and we also replaced the fuel filter. We also replaced the fuel pump. This was all last year before I knew about rx7club.com.
I'm thinking it must be a grounding issue, so I'm going to attempt to reground the main points in the engine. If that fails, I'll look at the secondary injectors, they may be closed or something.
Here is the one fact that I don't understand though, and I'm not sure if it's consistent with the standard 3800 rpm hesitation.
When the car does not have a load on it (in neutral) it rev's all the way to redline cleanly and without issue. It's only when I am in gear that I face this hesitation.
Does this detail rule out the ground or injectors not working? I don't know enough about the duty cycles of the 2ndaries as to if they are even needed to get the car to redline w/o load.
Thank you in advance.
(If there are any threads that walk you through the regrounding, just let me know and I'll keep searching)
-Rotary4tw
I'm thinking it must be a grounding issue, so I'm going to attempt to reground the main points in the engine. If that fails, I'll look at the secondary injectors, they may be closed or something.
Here is the one fact that I don't understand though, and I'm not sure if it's consistent with the standard 3800 rpm hesitation.
When the car does not have a load on it (in neutral) it rev's all the way to redline cleanly and without issue. It's only when I am in gear that I face this hesitation.
Does this detail rule out the ground or injectors not working? I don't know enough about the duty cycles of the 2ndaries as to if they are even needed to get the car to redline w/o load.
Thank you in advance.
(If there are any threads that walk you through the regrounding, just let me know and I'll keep searching)
-Rotary4tw
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thats the way my 3800rpm hesitation has been, funny thing is sometimes it does it and sometimes not. ive added a few grounds but it hasnt changed anything. i also replace the fuel filter. sounds like the typical hesitation to me.
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wow I am surprised no one has jumped on yall about the search button located on the top of the page or the FAQ page yall may want to use them before posting common question
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Correction
Originally Posted by 1RX7DRIVER
wow I am surprised no one has jumped on yall about the search button located on the top of the page or the FAQ page yall may want to use them before posting common question
I don't understand how a bad ground would cause the 2ndaries to not fire when the car had load, but it wouldn't happen when the car was in neutral.
Let me clarify, I'm not asking how to fix the 3800 rpm hesitation, I'm specificly asking if I can rule anything out if the car does not stumble when it is not under load.
Sorry for the confusion,
-Rotary4tw
#5
I believe the secondary injectors don't come on unless the car is under load.
Disconnect the boost sensor on the passenger's side tower from the engine's vacuum. Plug the vacuum leak into the engine (though it probably won't matter for this test). Now the ECU is seeing full manifold pressure, and will bring the secondaries online as you free-rev it. Does it hang at 3800 RPM? If so, then it's definitely a problem with the secondaries, and the typical "3800 RPM hesistation".
-=Russ=-
Disconnect the boost sensor on the passenger's side tower from the engine's vacuum. Plug the vacuum leak into the engine (though it probably won't matter for this test). Now the ECU is seeing full manifold pressure, and will bring the secondaries online as you free-rev it. Does it hang at 3800 RPM? If so, then it's definitely a problem with the secondaries, and the typical "3800 RPM hesistation".
-=Russ=-
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my car use to have a really bad hesitation at 2900 and 5400 only when it was under a load i ran 2 new grounds one from the - battary to the body and then another one from the - battary to the block and i havent had any hesitation problems with it yet. i would say just try them it would never hurt anything just help and also regound your ecu
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Originally Posted by Syonyk
I believe the secondary injectors don't come on unless the car is under load.
The hesitation is the secondaries coming on (badly). The reason there's no hesitation when revving in neutral is because the ECU doesn't turn them on unless the AFM (or MAP sensor, not entirely sure) tells it the engine is under load.
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Thank you
Thank you, this is the information that I was seeking.
You guys are the best!
I'll keep you posted on my tests and hopefully we can add another "3800 rpm hesitation" to archives...
-Rotary4tw
You guys are the best!
I'll keep you posted on my tests and hopefully we can add another "3800 rpm hesitation" to archives...
-Rotary4tw
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Well the TPS has nothing to do with the secondary injector activation, and the MAP sensor does, so it's possibly a bad MAP sensor signal and unlikely to be caused by the TPS.
Check the MAP sensor as per the FSM.
Check the MAP sensor as per the FSM.
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This may help. Basically just read what Hailers wrote.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/pressure-sensor-ground-3500-hesitation-fix-572799/
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/pressure-sensor-ground-3500-hesitation-fix-572799/
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This may help. Basically just read what Hailers wrote.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=572799
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=572799
Before you tear your car up, go to the vacuum line for the pressure sensor. Pull it off. Look and see if there is an ORIFICE inside the line. It should be within about a inch or two of the end that attaches to the intake manifold.
See the attached jpgs for what a ORIFICE looks like. Do a SEARCH for ORIFICE. I wrote down the Mazda part number some time ago. Or make one. Get one of those plastic vacuum pipes that connects one piece of vacuum hose to the other. In one end put some EPOXY. As the EPOXY hardens, push a sewiing needle thru the EPOXY. Make sure you put some vaseline on the needle so you can withdraw it later after the epoxy hardens. Then you can put a small length of new hose on one end of the plastic pipe and the original vacuum hose on the other end. Then install it on the engine and give it a try.
Once upon a time i replaced vacuum hose on my 87n/a. Drove the car half a block and wondered where this huge hesitation came from. Put the old line on and all was weill. Hmmm. Looked in the line and saw the ORIFICE. PUt it in the new vacuum line and all was well.
Well, it was better is what I should say. Later I found that TOTAL VICTORY was only accomplished when I went to the gnd wires at the ECU plugs and soldered a new wire to them and put a ring terminal on the other end of the new wire. That ring terminal attaches to one of the studs that hold the ECU bracket on the firewall..
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I find a sewing needle of 0.025 inch, will not go thru that hole. That'S the smallest needle I have. I think I could have SHOVED it thru the hole. So that figure is a fairly close idea of how little that hole is. Like I said, make one using epoxy and a plastic vacuum hose connector or?????? Fve minute epoxy and your thru in a half hour and ready to drive.
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Any epoxy that will set up hard is fine. While still in a peanut butter consistency, stick a sewing needle into and thru the epoxy. Vaseline on the needle. When the epoxy hardens in say ten/fifteen minutes, withdraw the needle and you should have a hole there in the epoxy.
If you have a piece of 0.020 safety wire handy that could be used instead of a needle.
If you have a piece of 0.020 safety wire handy that could be used instead of a needle.
#18
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Before you tear your car up, go to the vacuum line for the pressure sensor. Pull it off. Look and see if there is an ORIFICE inside the line. It should be within about a inch or two of the end that attaches to the intake manifold.
See the attached jpgs for what a ORIFICE looks like. Do a SEARCH for ORIFICE. I wrote down the Mazda part number some time ago. Or make one. Get one of those plastic vacuum pipes that connects one piece of vacuum hose to the other. In one end put some EPOXY. As the EPOXY hardens, push a sewiing needle thru the EPOXY. Make sure you put some vaseline on the needle so you can withdraw it later after the epoxy hardens. Then you can put a small length of new hose on one end of the plastic pipe and the original vacuum hose on the other end. Then install it on the engine and give it a try.
Once upon a time i replaced vacuum hose on my 87n/a. Drove the car half a block and wondered where this huge hesitation came from. Put the old line on and all was weill. Hmmm. Looked in the line and saw the ORIFICE. PUt it in the new vacuum line and all was well.
Well, it was better is what I should say. Later I found that TOTAL VICTORY was only accomplished when I went to the gnd wires at the ECU plugs and soldered a new wire to them and put a ring terminal on the other end of the new wire. That ring terminal attaches to one of the studs that hold the ECU bracket on the firewall..
See the attached jpgs for what a ORIFICE looks like. Do a SEARCH for ORIFICE. I wrote down the Mazda part number some time ago. Or make one. Get one of those plastic vacuum pipes that connects one piece of vacuum hose to the other. In one end put some EPOXY. As the EPOXY hardens, push a sewiing needle thru the EPOXY. Make sure you put some vaseline on the needle so you can withdraw it later after the epoxy hardens. Then you can put a small length of new hose on one end of the plastic pipe and the original vacuum hose on the other end. Then install it on the engine and give it a try.
Once upon a time i replaced vacuum hose on my 87n/a. Drove the car half a block and wondered where this huge hesitation came from. Put the old line on and all was weill. Hmmm. Looked in the line and saw the ORIFICE. PUt it in the new vacuum line and all was well.
Well, it was better is what I should say. Later I found that TOTAL VICTORY was only accomplished when I went to the gnd wires at the ECU plugs and soldered a new wire to them and put a ring terminal on the other end of the new wire. That ring terminal attaches to one of the studs that hold the ECU bracket on the firewall..
#20
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
I find a sewing needle of 0.025 inch, will not go thru that hole.
...I found that TOTAL VICTORY was only accomplished when I went to the gnd wires at the ECU plugs and soldered a new wire to them and put a ring terminal on the other end of the new wire. That ring terminal attaches to one of the studs that hold the ECU bracket on the firewall..
Here's some info on this I posted recently: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/ecu-ground-wire-questions-658615/
#21
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I used a VACUTITE plastic union like in the attached jpg. And two hose as shown in the attached jpgs. Not pretty. The real ORIFICE is the one in the earlier pictures. Black/oval with a 0.020 hole in the middle.
All I know, is, that the original car came with an orifice in the vacuum line to the boost/pressure sensor. Back to stock, says I.
#22
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P.S Can anyone tell me where I can find new 5th/6th port air pump actuators ? I would like to replace them .
#23