^^ This is what i was thinking of doing... So does everyone pretty much agree that BNR is a better way to go? Because it definitely sounds that way... How much money will i save by going BNR? Because the thing is i got the turbo for like $250 and BNR is like $750...

 

turbo $250
many $200
wastgate $200
New DP $100
housing $50

total $800

Now you could go cheap on some of those parts, and save you MAYBE another $200

if you sold the turbo you had for $200-250, i think you still come out ahead.... I don't think i have seen anyone say anything bad about BNR, the HP #s are honest and great turbos. For your 400hp + adventure you may need something else tho.

 

^^ yeah i know this that will be a whole other story.. an adventure like you said lol.. Will i need to upgrade the manifold with the BNR? If not i should at least get both the Turbo manifold and UIM ported right?

 

bnr uses stock manifold.. acording to Bryan over there the manifolds flow pretty well, all the work is on the turbo itself. porting the intake manifolds is up to you, not needed for any turbo upgrade.

 

You have to realize what your dealing with though... your on the borderline of "mild, on a budget power" and "screw it, im going with (mani, turbo, external wg, standalone, etc.) power" Personally I would do the "screw it" method, do it once, and do it right... your going to regret spending the time and money on this mild setup when you think about upgrading later on down the line, you could have done it that way to begin with.

 

Should I upgrade my secondaries then?? I'm thinking maybe i can put the 680's i have in the primary slots and upgrade the secondaries to 1000cc.. Unless 720's will flow enough which would be convinient for the Rtek. But i would have no problem with upgrading i will just have to tune the larger injectors on the PDA and be done with it. Also, i would like to install my FMIC and Walbro soon. Will i run lean w/o turning up the fuel?

 

I understand what you are saying, but the project i mentioned before won't happen for at least another year and will be extremely thorough and will take some time. At this point I will have much more money and time to play with, and i will have a daily driver. I would just like to have a little more power before my car goes under the knife.. I don't wan't "cheap" power, i just want the safest setup while spending a reasonable amount. In a sense, its like a mid point from stock.. to beast You say "why waste the money now when you plan on doing it all over again". My answer is because i don't mind spending the money and it is my passion. Besides, it is in my opinion that before anyone can throw a shitload of money at a car and make it extremely fast, they should go through stages first to learn how to handle and appreciate a car at different levels. It is a learning process.

 

I agree with your last statement. I too am going a similar route in the near future. On engine management subject, I would opt for a standalone as it can cope with a large variety of setups. Personally, I'm looking forward to Banzai Motorsports' S4 to Power FC adapter. The power FC isnt the most capable of standalone ecu's by far, but many rx7's have made over 300whp with one. Good luck with your hp goals!

 

I guess I just see it differently, I would rather do any serious mods all together, rather than putting a piggy back and a hybrid turbo and then putting a standalone and a big turbo later down the line.

 

I'm going with the "BNR stage 2 anD Rtek 2.0" route ALSO, only because I would be content with a decent 3xx hp. 720 primaries and 1000 secondaries should be a consideration if you're going to run a stage 2. Better to have too much fuel and lean it out, rather than not enough fuel and your motor goes.

But I also agree with deltr0n`when he says to go the standalone and bigger turbo but I'm not upgrading any farther. So the choice is basically up to you. If you're going to end up upgrading in a year or so to a bigger turbo then why not buy the set up now? But again it's up to you.

Just my $.02

 

720 primary and 720 secondary with Rtek 2.0

 

well lol, besides that last part not making any sense (i know what you mean tho) i agree.

 

there are people who have 300 plus with 720's?

 

you should scrap the whole piggy back idea. You'd probably be happier with your upgraded fuel pump some injectors and a haltech or mirotech or even a megasquirt

 

With a stock turbo and 720 secondaires and a microtech or haltech WITH A MINT TUNE, you can probably get around 250whp.

Thats nothing to scoff at. And at the same time, you won't be wasting money on POS parts that you're just going to scrap when it comes time for your big buildup.

Trust me, spin your wheels in the car - not spin your wheels building it.

 

Thanks for all the opinions guys i appreciate the criticism and advise. So, would i be able to install the FMIC and the walbro and not run lean?? Remember i have 680 secondaries and an A/F in the c-pillar that i can watch to see if it leans out. If i run lean i wouldnt mine just running a FPR for a little while until i put the Rtek in..

 

SKATINGSAMURAI, I just re-read my post and I kinda got lost in what I meant at the end. Lol.

 

Can anyone answer my question?

 

A narrowband a/f gauge is more/less a blinky light, If your considering any actual power and need a good tune ( duh!!) you will want a wideband- for the 300~ you will want 650~750 primary, and 850~1000+ for secondary, consider- SAFC2( $300), datalogger/palm( $200), timing controller ( $250), limitations priceless.... used power FC for $750- same price, with no limitations ( for 300hp at least) and will allow a wonderful tune. if you run a 255, consider an adjustable fuel pressure regulater, that way you dont overrun your fuel system, and you can keep factory fuel pressure. Just look at things in consideration/comprismisation....

 

^^ i understand this it is good advice... but i'm going with Rtek im gonna do the other setup with bnr and the Rtek 2.0... but i would like to install my FMIC and walbro before that... so i wanted to know if i can iinstal the FMIC and walbro without turning up the fuel until i do the BNR and Rtek.. Will i run lean? And if i do can fix that with a FPR?

 

You can install the fmic, and the fuel pump, they ill not effect any of the driveability anymore as an exhaust/ intake- the fuel pump however, will over run your stock fuel pressure regulater, so get an adjustable one, and set it to the stock setting- I dont remember right now but I can find it.... The weaponR one is very cheap, but the aeromotive ones are very nice peices. as long as you can control the fuel pressure- it wont be a problem, except that your fuel delivery will be much more consistent, and work wonderfully with your nice FMIC.

 

sell everything and go LS1...

 

with all due respect.. You and your pistons can go **** yoursleves
Exiletalon, thanks for the advice i think thats a good plan until i up the turbo and go Rtek. How much should i expect by boost pressure to go up? Will it be a noticable power increase?