Ok so let me start this off by describing my goals from this setup.
First of all, i do not wan't less than 280 whp from this new setup. I would like to get as much power as i can safely do so and the car is daily driven.
As of right now, I have a 10AE with a full RB Turbo-back exhaust, 680cc secondaries, dual alt pulley, intake, and emissions removed. Its peaking at about 10.5 lbs of boost and running pretty strong.
In my possession i have a full Greddy 24 row FMIC kit with an HKS SSQ BOV attached, a walbro 255lph fuel pump, NX Ntercooler kit, and a T3/T4 Garret turbo.
As of right now i know i need:
1) Turbo manifold
2) Exhaust-side housing for turbo
3) New DP i think??
4) Method of tuning (about to buy an S-AFCII)
5) Wastegate (external prefferably)
6) Electronic boost controller (i plan on having a low boost setting for normal driving and a hi boost setting for racing)

Ok so here are my questions..
1) Will i be able to achieve those numbers safely on this turbo?
2) Is an S-AFC suffiecient to tune this setup?
3) Will i need a new DP?
4) Recommendations on a manifold
5) " " on a wastegate
6) What is the max boost you would recommend on this setup (I will upgrade injectors if necessary)

So.. i am sorry for the long write-up but i am kind of a newb when it comes to the specifics on turbo builds and tuning... So feel free to ask anything and to call me an idiot if necessary
Thanks

 

Looks like you have eveything you need to make that much power. You need to be more specific on the turbo though, what are the specs? I would reccommend a Power FC or a standalone for ecu/tuning..do it right or dont do it at all. You cant go wrong with a cast HKS manifold and a Greddy wastegate, but thats only if you have a T4 flange to match it up. Youll probably need a custom DP, and I would reccommend at least a 40mm wastegate.

 

can easily hit that as long as the turbo is big enough

 

Yeah my bad about the specs on the turbo i don't have it right in front of me but i will them later... The reason i am going with the S-AFC for now is because in about a year from now i plan on garaging the car and starting a 400+whp build that will have the works done to it including a full standalone and many other goodies. So, rather than spending alot now, which would take me longer to save up for and more $$ to install and tune, i wanted to see if the S-AFC would be sufficient for now. I have seen ppl run Rtek and S-AFC together and i can do that if necessary.

 

BNR Stage 1 says it will hit 300whp easily, I'd go with stage 2 just to confirm that you do hit it and you don't need to fab up a downpipe and wastegate pipe if you go with the bnr. Plus you reuse your coolant/oil feed/drain lines.

 

Icecreaman i PM'ed you on the S-AFC...

 

I MADE 313WHP WITH A BNR STAGE ONE. GET A STANDALONE dont even f_ _ k around with afc

 

SAFC won't do it. You will need Rtek 2.0 minimum to control injectors... 720 secondarys is not enough.

 

I agree. Dont see to many pushing 300whp with safc. U need need a standalone. I think megasqirt plug n plays might be done. 550$

 

I Thought about the BNR's a while back but i got a deal on the turbo so i am sticking with it unless it gets too complicated.. Oh yeah i forgot about the oil lines and coolant lines i need a recommendation on what kind and where to get them..

 

workin on it...


720cc secondary injectors can support well over 300whp

 

1 have 720 primaries & 1600 secondaries with a halteche6x and car idles at 850-900 rpm

 

What about a GReddy E-manage? Will that work? I will upgrade to 720's if the Rtek 2.0 will be sufficient and safe.

 

720cc sec. could do it but why run you injectors at 85% when you can get 1600cc & run them at 60%?

 

save the money and get a haltech, i tried afc and two motors later im finally running halteche6x

 

720's aren't good enough for 300Whp?? What should i upgrade to then?

 

get 1600cc so no matter how much power you want later you have the fuel already

 

secondary injectors wont affect your idle, rather give you grief and stumble when the secondaries kick in.
the real question is why not run an injector at 80%? that is the sweet spot.
cost, and if he doesn't go stand alone, the 1600cc is too much to tone out

 

my car doesnt stumble at all when i hit it

 

^^ That was kinda what i was going to say next.. I am really trying to avoid standalone for now its just too much money.. Does anybody like the E-Manage or have experience with it? I Might be able to pick one up for around $300 with everything i need. s it something i can intall myself? Expensive to get done professionally?

 

i don't know anyone using the greddy, but its ALOT of wires. I would recommend getting the plug and play harness with it! If you get the harness should be easy. you just need the software and some tuning skills tho

 

before getting caught up in the stand alone chanting, you should check out the AFC forum and ask them if anyone there has done what you want to do.
otherwise i would recomend getting the Haltech, or Megasquirt if going standalone
if you do piggyback, go Rtek7, not greddy.

 

Yeah nobody ever replies in the S-AFC section of the forum i have tried already...

 

If I had to do it again, I would go with a PowerFC or a Motec. Stay away from Haltech, too many bugs.

 

umm...sell the turbo you have...go with a bnr...that will save you from having to buy/make a DP, external WG, and all that other jazz you need for the sytem....then use that extra money to put towards a real standalone....or as someone else said, at a bare minimum, go with something like the rtek 2.0 which will let you do something with your fuel and timing maps, and not just fuel which is all the s-afc will do...also it's plug n' play...send off your stock ecu and when you get it back, plug it in and hook up a pda..software is pretty simple, and good datalogging.