1990 GTU meet Renesis
01-19-09, 03:50 PM
#78
there is a reason why the reni's are dying so quikly...
theres 2 oil injectors on the pre- 2009 motors. angled to only face the corner and side seals. leaving the apex seal un lubricated. this results in excessive wear. this is also why rx8's do not dyno consistent numbers. the new ones 2009+ have 3 oil injectors. they added one in the center to lube the apex seal. mazda never announced this and is trying to keep it under the radar. all the people that have warrantys are getting the 09 motors.
how to fix this problem = pre-mix
i like the pro-tek R brand from Pettit Racing. the motor will last plenty long doing this.
theres 2 oil injectors on the pre- 2009 motors. angled to only face the corner and side seals. leaving the apex seal un lubricated. this results in excessive wear. this is also why rx8's do not dyno consistent numbers. the new ones 2009+ have 3 oil injectors. they added one in the center to lube the apex seal. mazda never announced this and is trying to keep it under the radar. all the people that have warrantys are getting the 09 motors.
how to fix this problem = pre-mix
i like the pro-tek R brand from Pettit Racing. the motor will last plenty long doing this.
01-22-09, 05:05 PM
#80
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what mods would need to be done to the gsl-se front cover? Also I have an FB so i would be throwing the reni in this....probably a quick ratio rack & Re-speed crossmember with an aluminum mount.
01-23-09, 09:42 AM
#83
The key to the Renesis intake manifold isn't in how much peak horsepower you can get with it. You can build a manifold that will match it for peak power. The stock manifold is very nice in regards to power across the entire rpm range. That's what you won't be able to touch with an aftermarket or custom fabbed unit. Peak power sells product. Average power makes you faster.
01-30-09, 04:27 AM
#84
1988 Mazda RX-7 SE
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I'm sure the people who are thinking about doing this swap, might be asking this: is there a way you'd think about making more of those custom renesis --> fc engine bay motor mounts? If you make enough brackets, I believe there may be people lining up to buy them.
Just an idea.
Just an idea.
01-30-09, 09:35 PM
#86
1988 Mazda RX-7 SE
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I'm potentially interested, and I sure as **** know a friend of mine is, message me with the cost of the materials and what you might want for compensation, thanks. 
01-30-09, 11:01 PM
#88
Wow. Just wow. This has been a dream of mine since I heard about the Renesis + now someone is finally doing it! Respect to you for being the first to do it. When all is said + done, I'll be short to follow you! Keep us updated.
Posting in historical thread!
Posting in historical thread!
01-31-09, 03:01 PM
#90
Very cool, I'm actually surprised no one has apparently done this yet - I suppose more are just using RX-8 rotors in S5/S4 builds. It's something I've wondered about ever since Renesis debuted, so I'll be following this thread.
If nothing else, he can use aftermarket gauges and fab up a panel - I've seen lots of those in race or V-8 conversion 7's, some looking very professional and not cobbled at all.
If nothing else, he can use aftermarket gauges and fab up a panel - I've seen lots of those in race or V-8 conversion 7's, some looking very professional and not cobbled at all.
02-03-09, 01:31 PM
#93
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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02-23-09, 11:09 AM
#95
Rotary Enthusiast
*Subscribed* This is a great project and I applaud you for not listening to the "Why do all that work when you can just go turbo for cheaper?" train of thought. Some people will never understand that it’s not always about power. Congrats for being brave enough to try something new. I would love to see a list of items that need to be overcome to complete this project. IE: You just bought a Renesis long block… what fits, what doesn’t?
02-23-09, 06:51 PM
#96
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in my opinion what i would do if the front cover of a s4 front cover works what i would do is use the mechcanical omp with custom lower intake manifold with a s5 upper manifold and s4 trottle body and have the vdi work on a air pump rpm activated for a better response and using the stock n/a wiring on a rtek2.0 witch does everything a standalone does.
THATS JUST MY OPINION WHAT I WOULD DO.
THATS JUST MY OPINION WHAT I WOULD DO.
02-23-09, 07:57 PM
#97
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i dig the project man. i have an 04 rx8 and it died last week.. i havent had time to break it down to find out why with work and everything else thats going on. i bought it with 20k miles on it and its sitting at 42k in the drive way lol.
(i know there is an rx8club forum but i cant post there yet. Plus i think you guys know your stuff alot better in my opinion so i post here)
my point is that i dont think the reni is any more reliable than any other rotary. i drove it hard when i wanted to but i took care of it changing the oil every two months whether or not it needed it. how long are you expecting this motor to last? Im so dissapointed with the 8 i found myself looking at non rotor swaps... sad day. but dont worry i cant drive a car without the rotor's whir
(i know there is an rx8club forum but i cant post there yet. Plus i think you guys know your stuff alot better in my opinion so i post here)
my point is that i dont think the reni is any more reliable than any other rotary. i drove it hard when i wanted to but i took care of it changing the oil every two months whether or not it needed it. how long are you expecting this motor to last? Im so dissapointed with the 8 i found myself looking at non rotor swaps... sad day. but dont worry i cant drive a car without the rotor's whir
02-23-09, 08:00 PM
#98
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02-24-09, 11:27 AM
#100
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
I don't think the FD coils alone are enough to poduce the spark needed at those levels. The one thing that I wold be really worried about is dwell time when you get into the higher RPM's. The renni redlines much higher than the REW and therefore there is less dwell time. The FD coils from what I was told by the gents at Motec, can't really handle alot of dwell time, nor do they produce alot of spark with little dwell time. I was told of an instance where tuning at a track someone had LSX coils on a renni and there were ignition issues. The LSX coils were swapped for STOCK RENNI coils and all issues went away becuase the stock Renni coils require less Dwell time. I would give ALOT of consideration to using stock renni coils. This coming from a guy using 4 LS2 coils too.
The GM LS1 (D577) coil and the GM LS2 (D582 coil) are pretty inferior coils, that need a substantial bit of extra dwell time to build a decent spark. The D585 (Yukon) coil is a much better choice in a high reving, very high compression engine (such as the Reni that can rev to 10K), and is a much more common choice for Reni coil replacement. Also the D585 coil has an extra heat sink on the back, in case you mount the coils in a hot spot (such as the stock reni or FD location).
For example on the D577 (LS1 coil) there is around 40 milliamps of peak secondary current with 5 milliseconds of dwell time. On the D585 (Yukon) coil there is 120 milliamps!
Here is a great break down of the two in a long video:
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...65754251&hl=en
(left to right) GM LS1, LS2 and Yukon coils.
I don't think you could even run the LS1 coils on a reni without some major adjustments to dwell time, and then you still might run into high RPM issues when the dwell starts to over lap (no more spark is created after about 5.6 mS, and considerably less spark is created at under 5mS). You could probably use the LS2 since it is somewhat similar to the D585, but output amperage is still going to be lower when compared to the D585 (Yukon) coil. The Megasquirt guys like the D582 a lot though.
I actually run the D585 coils on my RX-8 with no changes to dwell at all, and as a stock replacement (with a custom adapter plugs and coil wires). And you can get the D585 brand new for about $20 each on ebay and pigtail adapters for plugging into the coil for about $30 for 6.