What are the modifications needed to fit a gsl-se oil pan, and front cover?
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You can't just bolt on a GSL-SE oil pan. You'll need to cut it in half and extend it a little bit.

 

That and everywhere else in the world they take 5w30, but in the US the dealer puts in 5w20 for emissions reasons... and it's not thick enough. Or so I've heard.

 

front cover bolts directly on. but the gsl-se oil pan will need to be extended and new holes drilled to bolt it on.

or you could just use two 12a oil pans. easier to find than a gsl-se one.

 

what mods would need to be done to the gsl-se front cover? Also I have an FB so i would be throwing the reni in this....probably a quick ratio rack & Re-speed crossmember with an aluminum mount.

 

none... it goes right on

 

Very curious at how much the Renesis motor is capable of without the stock manifold.

 

The key to the Renesis intake manifold isn't in how much peak horsepower you can get with it. You can build a manifold that will match it for peak power. The stock manifold is very nice in regards to power across the entire rpm range. That's what you won't be able to touch with an aftermarket or custom fabbed unit. Peak power sells product. Average power makes you faster.

 

I'm sure the people who are thinking about doing this swap, might be asking this: is there a way you'd think about making more of those custom renesis --> fc engine bay motor mounts? If you make enough brackets, I believe there may be people lining up to buy them.

Just an idea.

 

i have had a few PM's and e-mails on them. mostly dreamers i suspect. but if anyone wants a pair. just let me know...

 

I'm potentially interested, and I sure as **** know a friend of mine is, message me with the cost of the materials and what you might want for compensation, thanks.

 

this might interest you

A UK tuner as made a 3 rotor Renesis, although it is fitted to a FD.

 

Wow. Just wow. This has been a dream of mine since I heard about the Renesis + now someone is finally doing it! Respect to you for being the first to do it. When all is said + done, I'll be short to follow you! Keep us updated.



Posting in historical thread!

 

Another thought - How are you getting speedo + tach signals?

 

Very cool, I'm actually surprised no one has apparently done this yet - I suppose more are just using RX-8 rotors in S5/S4 builds. It's something I've wondered about ever since Renesis debuted, so I'll be following this thread.

If nothing else, he can use aftermarket gauges and fab up a panel - I've seen lots of those in race or V-8 conversion 7's, some looking very professional and not cobbled at all.

 

any more progress on this yet?

 

Just name a price. I actually have a Renesis lying around. I'm not sure if I'll ever install it in the car but I'd like the option to.

 

This is the ONLY reason I have stayed the course with my project. So far you are the fourth person on this board that I know realizes this.

 

wait the old rx8's are getting 09 motors? so you can just add a third oil injector for the apex seal? ive never premixed before can anybody tell me?

 

*Subscribed* This is a great project and I applaud you for not listening to the "Why do all that work when you can just go turbo for cheaper?" train of thought. Some people will never understand that it’s not always about power. Congrats for being brave enough to try something new. I would love to see a list of items that need to be overcome to complete this project. IE: You just bought a Renesis long block… what fits, what doesn’t?

 

in my opinion what i would do if the front cover of a s4 front cover works what i would do is use the mechcanical omp with custom lower intake manifold with a s5 upper manifold and s4 trottle body and have the vdi work on a air pump rpm activated for a better response and using the stock n/a wiring on a rtek2.0 witch does everything a standalone does.

THATS JUST MY OPINION WHAT I WOULD DO.

 

Your engine has a 8 year 100k mile warranty. If it needs one get one for free man.

 

No, they are getting rebuilt pre 09 motors.

 

You are one hell of a welder!

 

The stock Reni coils although are very fast, has a bad tendency to arc out through the bottom insulation, leading to eventual coil failure. Typically replacement of a Reni coil is at around 24K to 36K miles. Mazda is on their third revision to fix the early failure issues right now. In fact some clueless dealers have replaced whole engines, when they just had bad coils, because of the lack of power reported.

The GM LS1 (D577) coil and the GM LS2 (D582 coil) are pretty inferior coils, that need a substantial bit of extra dwell time to build a decent spark. The D585 (Yukon) coil is a much better choice in a high reving, very high compression engine (such as the Reni that can rev to 10K), and is a much more common choice for Reni coil replacement. Also the D585 coil has an extra heat sink on the back, in case you mount the coils in a hot spot (such as the stock reni or FD location).

For example on the D577 (LS1 coil) there is around 40 milliamps of peak secondary current with 5 milliseconds of dwell time. On the D585 (Yukon) coil there is 120 milliamps!

Here is a great break down of the two in a long video:
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...65754251&hl=en




(left to right) GM LS1, LS2 and Yukon coils.

I don't think you could even run the LS1 coils on a reni without some major adjustments to dwell time, and then you still might run into high RPM issues when the dwell starts to over lap (no more spark is created after about 5.6 mS, and considerably less spark is created at under 5mS). You could probably use the LS2 since it is somewhat similar to the D585, but output amperage is still going to be lower when compared to the D585 (Yukon) coil. The Megasquirt guys like the D582 a lot though.

I actually run the D585 coils on my RX-8 with no changes to dwell at all, and as a stock replacement (with a custom adapter plugs and coil wires). And you can get the D585 brand new for about $20 each on ebay and pigtail adapters for plugging into the coil for about $30 for 6.