1990 GTU meet Renesis
 

OK... im going to try and document this as much as possible with pics and tips. i am by no means a genious or have a bunch of money. i also have 2 other TII's wich get most of my money. i want to prove this is one of the best swaps for the price and power.

here we go.

so i'll start it off with getting the core into the car. this is probley the best thing to do first since you cant make anything else without knowing clearence issues.

heres a few pics of the motor mounts i made made 1/4inch steel plate. i got this metal for free this is why i chose it. i cut them out with a sheer and a hand torch. used a belt sander to smooth them out slightly. there not 100% done. i need to do some slight trimming and smoothing to make them look better. but for now, they work and fit very nice. there plenty strong and will be nice with the polyurethane bushings im using.

heres some pics...

motor mount pics


http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...rinchplate.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...driverside.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...engersideb.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...is/mountsb.jpg

renesis in the car...am i the first???

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...idemounted.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...idemounted.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...ewcomplete.jpg

im going to add that this is my first ever attempt of trying to make motor mounts.

i bolted the tranny to the motor (S5 NA trans) and put them in together and mounted the tranny using stock tranny mounting positions. i then propped the motor up using a floor jack getting it to the right height and location using a level to make sure its even.

the FD front cover is on there in the picture because i was planning on using it. for the main reason of using the FD crank trigger mounted on the front cover. but im since thinking of using the S4 NA front cover i have on there now and using the FC crank angle sensor. alls you need to do is swap the renesis timing gear for a 12a/13b one and thats it.

i'll be using an FC water pump and housing either way. mainly because the FD one is very ugly and bulky. plus the FC one is lighter. i'll be updating more when i get to it. there much much fabrication to come. most of it will be my first time, proving it dosnt take a pro and a bunch of money.

i'll be hoping for 220-230 WHP when all is complete. in NA form with MPG near 18-20 city driving. and more reliability than any other rotary with equal power. and far more street drivability. this will be a TRUE daily driver with A/C and all!!!

i like it . what engine management are you going to use? and also do you have prices on the core as to how much you spent? my guess for a short block goes for about 4k?

other then that props to you sir . more pics and doc's!

you can always run a carb if money is tight,i have a friend down in PR that put a ported renesis on his datsun using the GLESE pan and front cover(modified)he is running a modified racing beat manifold,650 holley carb,first gen dizzy and custom made header to dual exhaust and he dynoed 236HP a couple of weeks ago.

What oil pan are you using and how are you going to control the electronic actuators for the aux ports?


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I'm definitely gonna have to see how this one ends up, been waiting to see this one for awhile

*subscribed*

not sure at the moment. but most likely a Microtech since KILO (jesus padilla) will be the tuner. and thats what he prefers to tune.

but if i find a haltech for cheap i would go with that. here in Orlando theres a lot of really good rotary tuners. and most poeple use haltech and microtech. im running into the problem right now with my TII cause im using the Apex-i. all the tuners who are familiar with it are almost 2 hours away.

i got my core for 300. its only the 4-port. im still looking for a 6 port. you can find them pretty cheap if you look around. people that work at mazda get them dirt cheap when they come in and they swap the motor. oh, and the motors not broken either.

236 on carb!? fucking sweet! i guess i'll make more than i thought. cool. good to see other people see the light in the renesis.

since im using the FC front cover, im going to use the GSL-SE oil pan or make one out of two 12a oil pans.

and since im going to be using GSXR throttle bodies (ITB's) i will not need to control anything like that. everything will be custom made by me. im only using the renesis core and no bolt on parts.

thanks for the compliments.

joeylyrech... you have any pics of his set up??? i cant believe he made 236 with an old school set-up like that.

so im sure with ITB's and the precise tuning of a Microtech/Haltech by one of the best all motor tuners in the world...i should make pretty good power.

Yeah I was talking to a tech that rebuilds the engines for Mazda in Virginia at the engine facility there, and he was saying that over half the RX-8/rotary engines that the dealers are sending them have absolutely nothing wrong with the engine. That the dealers are just replacing engines rather than figuring out what the issue is.

That's pathetic....

sen2two, nice looking motor mounts, I'll definatly be keeping an eye on this thread, looking good so far!

well not really... if you think about it, it's getting a lot more Reni's available out there for retrofits like this thread.

i know that a problem with them was that there are 2 oil injecters per rotor. but there angled towards the corner seals. so the apex seal are not getting lubed. on the 09 motors, there are 3. one for the apex seal. so there trying to cover up a mistake by replacing the motors

i'll be premixing anyway. but this is why (maybe anyways) a lot of rx8s were having compression issues and low inconsistant dyno numbers.

Hell the average person who purchased an RX-8 who thought it was "cute" or "looked cool" probably knows more about their own car than the majority of the mechanics at the dealerships..... okay maybe just a LITTLE bit of an exaggeration.

Yeah I have always pre-mixed on my '8, but at least the two injectors were better than the setup of the FD motor. But your motor replacement theory is not correct... replacing the motors with the newer design motor would, but just putting the same motor in, doesn't hide or solve anything. More of an issue was that the 4 port motors only got a single oil cooler for the 04 and 05 models, and in warm climates had oil break down issues.

And inconsistent dyno numbers are more a loose nut behind the wheel issue. You need to turn the traction/DSC off, or the DSC computer thinks the rear wheels are spinning but the front wheels are not and it lightly applies the brakes and reduces engine output to slow the rear wheel spin.

Question....Since you are eliminating the fancy intake and all the progressive ports for an ITB setup, isn't that going to make the Renesis pretty gutless down low? It's already not much of a torque monster and pulling all the Mazda optimizations off is going to hurt it a lot.

Regardless, that's a great project. With a good set of mounts it doesn't seem at all difficult to physically swap in the Renesis. And elimination of that ridiculous through-the-mount exhaust manifold will make constructing a set of headers far easier.

Yeah I agree that the end result is a good thing for the rest of us, just pathetic in that the mechanics don't want to do their job and acutally learn about the machine they are "repairing".... Definatly one of the main reasons I do all my own work (like most of us)
Here's my question, how would one go about getting their hands on the engines they get back that still run? I've been casually looking for one for a while....

i shoulnt have any less low end than a 12a with webbers. or earlier 13b with similar. also, the plan right now is to have at least 12-14 inch runners. but the alternator is causing a fitment problem. we'll see how that goes in time...

small update:

im going to be using the FD coils. so i made this little bracket to mount them on the frame near the steering column. all i id was cut a flat piece of 14 gauge steel to size, and then used the old nuts off the original bracket. welded them down and bought some bolts and presto! FD coild mounts. i think it came out well for 2 minutes or work and design.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/S5000025.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/S5000026.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/S5000027.jpg

Can't wait to see how this goes :icon_tup:

Yep 236hp on a carb with a ported sixport renenis,for the oil pan he fabricated his own pickup tube and used 2 pans in order to make the one for the renesis,he used the fc front water housings and water pump(there is some clearances issues but you just need to grind a little bit to make them fit,rotors were machined to accept pre renesis seals,motor was installed on a street driven blue 1200 datsun,let me try to get some pictures buddy.

i guess that kilo knows about the datsun setup if not im sure that he can get you some more info 2

one of the reasons that techs at dealerships just swap out motors is because of time. warranty will only cover a certain amount of time, so why would the mechanic care about tearing the engine apart? it is all business at dealerships. if a tech took the time to do a tear down, he looses money. let's say warranty engine replacements pay 10 hours, that means he has to remove and replace the engine and have it running in 10 hours to break even. if he takes longer he loses money because warranty won't pay him more. if it were a cash engine where there was no warranty then the labor rate would change in favor of the tech, he could charge more hours and cover his time spent.

cool...

thanks man. pics would be great.